Dino Restoration

Jon,
This is great documentation! Keep the pics coming.
I have some questions. What's your procedure for easy and SAFE removal of the rear window? I understand these can't be replaced!
Are you replacing the windshield? What's your replacement source?
Thanks,
Bill

 

I'm about to start removing the front and rear suspension; any pics would be very useful.
Thanks

 

Omjon,

Where do you locate the lift pads when you lift the Dino? I'm afraid to use a 4-point lift on mine. Many thanks.

Andy

 

Now this is the way to learn about a car!

 

Many thanks, Omgjon. You've done a great service to the 246 world with your restoration pictures. I hope they will remain permanently accessible on the web.

All the best, Andy

 

Omgjon - your posts are quite informative. I think you should put all your picks on DVD for distribution as I am sure a lot of people would like them for reference. I have been downloading a lot of the pictures for the future. Andrew

 

I'd buy your DVD/CD of photos, comments, et al.

Mark

 

I am in LA and although that is not too close I would be interested in observing the engine / carb rebuild as that is something I want to do on my Spyder. I have a spare set of 3 (almost complete) webers and a manifold that I took apart a while ago and ordered the rebuild kit from Superformance but have not put it back together. Same for transmission and steering box. I am good with interior / exterior body work but not mechanics (once you get past the basic stuff).

 

Gentlemen, i am going to hopefully lift the engine and box from my car in the next couple of days , in this picture of Omgjon's car the 25mm bar that runs across the rear of the engine that the header tank is normally fixed to is shown removed. I must admit i havent studied this bar too much, but how does it dismantle from the car? and i take it that it definately needs to come out to enable engine/box extraction?
thanks in advance.
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Tony,

I also removed my marker lights. Your car is identical to mine with the exception of mine having clear/white front signal lenses.

 

Thanks for that, i had'nt studied the area of the bar and how it was fixed, I have'nt the luxury of an engine leveller just a manual engine crane and good old brute force coupled with a bit of ignorance , wish me luck.
Will try and post a few pics.

 

if you tilt the engine with the passenger side(right side) tilted up it helps enormously. So make sure that the side of the engine with the tranny is tilted down & the dist end is tilted up...as it comes out you can swing the dist end towards the rear of the car. It comes out up & over....make sure the header tank bar is out & the trunk divider is out. The exhaust manifolds have to come out first & the front one(facing the front of car) is toughest however if you lift the engine (make darn sure u have jacks under it for support) you can get access to the front header & take it off. Safety is key here...take your time & ensure things are supported. Also the guys at Superformance in UK (easy to get to by way tube) have smaller diameter exh nuts which will make removing headers easier next time around. Good luck.

 

forgot...u really need an engine leveler ...they are not expensive but with the angle you need to put on the engine as it comes out they are essential. I am afraid brute force wont be enough and you dont want to bash things around as it comes out.

 

I removed my motor with the same engine leveler as omgjon with some modifications. I wanted to shorten the overall chain length. As you can see in the photos, you attach to the intake manifold mounting holes in the block. You need the leveler. I removed my forward exhaust with the motor lifted and tilted for access. Put some pillows to protect your rear glass, in case the motor swings toward it.

I have heard it is much easier if you remove the bellhousing first. This minimizes the tilt required.

Rich
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That engine leveler is a great idea.

 

Richard - I appreciate your photos of the engine leveler, and your technique of using the intake manifold bolts.

I have a question concerning the load that you are applying to those stud holes and to the bolts. The weight of the engine and transmission are supported by 4 bolts. While your experience suggests that these are adequate, the original design specification for those threads and material are to clamp down the intake manifold. Makes me think (worry) a bit about thread failure during lifting, and the consequences vis-a-vis body work.

Jim S.