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Dipstick tube threads stripped is oil leak a certainty

Discussion in 'Technical Q&A' started by dhs-9, Jul 15, 2004.

  1. dhs-9

    dhs-9 Formula Junior

    Feb 6, 2004
    292
    In replacing my oil pan I was using a torque wrench set at 20 ftlbs as I was turning the dipstick tube waiting for the wrench to click the threads stripped. The tube now turns freely in hte hole and will not come out. I put on hte upper nut from the tube guide and it tightened things up a bit but the lower part which goes into the pan has a small amount of play to it. Am I guarenteed a leak where the tube goes into the block? Also how hard would it be to put a helicoil in and how would one get out the dipstick tube since it just turns. I will never use a torque wrench on aluminum again you just have no feel for how tight it is with that 2 foot long handle. Any help is appreciated
     
  2. mk e

    mk e F1 World Champ

    Oct 31, 2003
    11,505
    The twilight zone
    Full Name:
    The Butcher
    It has to leak some, but it is well above the oil level, so I doubt it will be that bad....just enough to annoy the heck out of you probably. You could hose it down with break clean then run RTV around it, I'm sure that will slow the leak down.

    To get a stripped bolt out, usually pulling or better yet prying to apply pressure while you turn will get it out.
     
  3. ferrarifixer

    ferrarifixer F1 Veteran
    BANNED

    Jul 22, 2003
    8,520
    Melbourne
    Full Name:
    Phil Hughes
    leak!! They leak when the threads are good, never mind stripped!!
     
  4. Verell

    Verell F1 Veteran
    Consultant Owner

    May 5, 2001
    6,992
    Groton, MA
    Full Name:
    Verell Boaen
    You s/b able to use an easy-out, or the similar tool that plumbers use to remove the broken end of a pipe from a joint.

    GOOD NEWS: Most likely the threads in the sump housing will be OK, so you don't have to worry about a helicoil.
     
  5. dhs-9

    dhs-9 Formula Junior

    Feb 6, 2004
    292
    I've decided that I dont want to drop the pan again to tap out the dipstick tube from underneath. The lower dipstick tube had a kink in it and it would not seperate from the union so I would have to bang it from underneath to push it up. Then in that tight space I cannot imagine trying to manipulate an ez out from the top to take out the rest of the union. I hardly have room to turn a ratchet. I have concluded that the easiest method is to attach the top dipstick nut to the union and then use JB weld to epoxy the union to the block. Its not worth hiring somone to remove the alternator for access ect for $500-1000 to repair this. Anyone have a reason why this is a bad idea to JB weld it.
     
  6. Verell

    Verell F1 Veteran
    Consultant Owner

    May 5, 2001
    6,992
    Groton, MA
    Full Name:
    Verell Boaen
    Once you do that, the sump over can't be removed.

    There are several service items such as replacing shift shaft seals & removing the timing cover that can't be done w/o pulling the sump cover. Eventually the engine will need things like crank shims & main bearings, again requiring sump cover removal.

    Pulling the alternator is NOT a big deal, takes 30-45 mins. max. See instructions in my posts in the old Fchat archives.

    Pull it yourself & do the job right.
     
  7. dhs-9

    dhs-9 Formula Junior

    Feb 6, 2004
    292
    It my understanding that the dipstick tube is soft metal and if I need to remove pan with nut jb welded that a hard tug onthe pan will allow the pan to be removed although it will bend the dipstick tube inside the sump. Then I could cut off the bent tube and repalce with new. It dosnt matter if hte nut stays on the block permenantly it is the tube which prevents the pan from dropping and the tube can be removed from the inside of the nut without removal of the nut.

    If I do end up taking the broken nut out rather than have to try to helicoil has anyone ever used the permatex Thread Repair Kit its like some sort of expoxy which makes new threads.
     

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