Disaster in ATX

I don't know what car you have but check the superformance.co.uk site: inlet valves come in a variety of prices - some of which aren't particularly expensive. Perhaps you could give them a call to clarify.

 

For the cam timings, how did you check them?

I was off from 3-6 degrees using the timing marks Ferrari stamped in the cams. Found that when yelcab helped me out with his custom measurement jig to check lifter heights (what the repair manual says to do to set cams properly).

 

What are we looking at specifically in the picture?

You might give Brian Crall a call; he is in your area. I think he sends heads to someone in California, but may have a local recommendation.

For valves, as mentioned above Superformance has an aftermarket for about $50. I’ve also heard of people using Ducati valves but don’t have a model no.

 

How it happened is there was an error timing the cams, something has been overlooked here.
Your cams responsible for driving the valves into the pistons must have been a fair way off, probably about 15-20˚, you would have been able to see this in relation to the Assembly/reference marks on the cams...
The cambelt teeth are 10˚ and the holes in the pulley/cam holes give a 4˚ advance/retard.

What was your process for dialing in the cams? Did you do as per manual or did you work out the center-line? Have you got much experience dialing cams?
How did you set up your TDC for the crankshaft? Is there are chance that may have been wrong?

As a side note, the marks on the camshafts are not timing marks, they are assembly/reference marks for when you fit the cams and the timing belt, then once those marks are aligned with the marks on the caps at TDC #1, then you need to dial the cams in. They can be up to 6˚ off as I have discovered.
I use the centre-line method, as this is the way I was taught to dial in cams, many many moons ago....you can work out the centre-line of the cams from the duration.

Yes the Euro engines have bigger inlet valves, the cams are slightly different and the cam timing is slightly different, I would not use Euro heads on your engine as then the fuel and ignition mapping will be wrong, you'd have to get the engine remapped or find some euro Motoronic's and even then there are a lot of other differences with certain emission things between the US and Euro versions.
Stick with what the engine is now.

 

The cheaper valves are not "back cut", which basically means, arguably they wont flow quite as well as the OEM valves, but I feel it wouldn't make that much difference on a stock engine, if you were going for big horsepower and wanting every last inch of power and torque, maybe then it would be something to consider...

 

When you take the engine out look at the assembly marks, and see if they are close if they are this would not have happened.
As stated above need to be out 2 teeth which will hit. I tooth will not cause this.

 

Damn, I feel for you! I'll look tomorrow and see if I can find where I bought my valves from. They were MUCH cheaper than OEM. I'll also ask my buddy for recommendations for a machine shop. He restores classic Lambos and Ferraris for a living and has a pretty good knowledge base of shops in/around Austin.

Tim

 

Any update on this?
I find it curious that you say the marks lined up and yet you have valves hitting pistons, this is simply just not possible.
Can you post some pictures?

 

I feel you believe me, I have actually just finished dialing my cams in. I am constantly double and triple checking everything as I really do not want to have to pull the engine out again!! Engine will be going in tomorrow.....

Well, when you do, please post some pictures and maybe we can help you figure it all out....

 

Thanks man, I am getting pretty close to fitting it into the car, just got to finish off a few things, my injectors are on their way back from the EFI specialists, in fact my injectors were in perfect condition and flowing as per spec, not bad after 27 years!!
As soon as they're here, I'll be fitting them and the engine will be going in.

I found when I fitted my cambelt, and checked the timing, my exhaust cam on the cyl 5-8 bank was 6˚ retarded, all the others strangely were within a degree.

I'm sure we'll be able to spot the problem with your engine and help you through getting it right.

 

This must be utterly soul destroying. Especially after you've done all the hard work and checked everything.
Out of interest, did you do a compression or leak down check before you stuck a scope down the bores?

 

Chopsui,

Doing cam timing on a 348 is actually harder than the 355. If you need something clarified, feel free to post, or PM.

Chopsui, your call sign reminds me of the time I spent in a refugee camp 45 years ago. How on earth did you choose that name?

 

I was wondering if it was yours. Sorry to hear the news. I looked and can't find a receipt for my valves, but I'm pretty sure I got them from GT Car Parts in Arizona (gtcp.com). I got my head gaskets from AW Italian Eatontown, NJ (732-542-5600). If I can help you out, let me know. Ping me tomorrow during the day - I'll be working with Josh and he can point you to a good machine shop.

 

I'm sure you are aware but your local shops are David Moore at Moorespeed on Burleson.

Brian Crall owns Hill Country Exotic Service out on 620 by Lakeway.
"Rifledriver" when he posts here..

Looks like you got the parts sorted anyway
+1 on Gt Car Parts I have done business with them.

Ordered a "drivers side door".
Call them back upon arrival and said, The OTHER 'drivers side door"....

Just put that out there, when things are going wrong!!
Funny now, not so much then..