hi Steve, Do you think the rpm fluctuation is caused by the sensor or the loose hose? I have similar symptoms at stop lights.
Fantastic! I have done business with Newark for a long time. I hope they didn't charge you shipping since they're practically right in your backyard.
It's possibly both. The important thing is to troubleshoot methodically instead of taking the shotgun approah by throwing expensive parts at the problem. In open loop operation, the ECUs uses the ECT sensor as top priority along with the internal built-in fuel map. Once the engine has reached a certain operating temperature and goes into close loop, the IAT becomes the top priority sensor and the ECT sensor falls back as secondary in calculating the stiochmetric value. You can eliminate the IAT sensor as the culprit by plugging in a scanner and check for the IAT temperature value in live data mode once the engine sits overnight. Compare the readings between banks and the ambient temperature. They should be very close, otherwise you have a bad IAT sensor.
I suppose this repair could apply to any MAF. How did you determine which thermistor to purchase ? Good fix, thanks for sharing the information. Brewman
That is a very good question. The stock IAT sensor on the 360 matches the Honeywell specification of 2K ohm at 25 Celsius (77 degree Fahrenheit). Simply measure a good stock sensor with an multimeter in ohm resistance setting. Expose the sensor to exactly 25 Celsius and note the ohm reading. Match the ohm reading to one of the listed Honeywell part spec. Image Unavailable, Please Login
