DIY Battery Replacement in 2014 California non-HELE

I looked in the Shop Manual someone posted in this section and did a Google/Youtube search and couldn't find any pics or step by step instructions. So disclaimer, this is just my experience doing this job myself and I hope it might help someone else.
1. I lowered both windows and unplugged the trickle charger. Removed both big black plastic beauty trim covers by removing the 5 per side 4mm Hex wrench fasteners. (this not only gave me great access, I was able to clean under them and all around the engine)
2. Used a thin flat blade screwdriver to pry open the crimped clamps on the ends of the black rubber air inlet tubes. Disconnected the hose from the side of the passenger side air inlet tube. Compressed the tubes to free them from the air filter boxes and the engine. Simply laid the air inlet tubes on top of the engine.
3.Used a 10mm closed end ratchet wrench to remove both brass nuts holding down the battery restraint bar.
4. Removed the black plastic cover over the electrical connections on the Positive Side of the battery. Used phillips screwdriver to remove screws that secured electrical connection plate into the top of the battery. Used 10mm wrench to remove battery POSITIVE terminal clamp. Left side (Negative) battery terminal has quick release lever.
5. Take battery hold-down bar and electrical connection plate and lay over towards driver side to gain full access to battery.
6. Tricky to see and gain access to 2ea -6mm hex bolts holding alum plate that secures battery at the front bottom. I had to use a Vice Grip on the top of my hex wrench to reach down there. I only "loosened" mine enough to free up the battery because I was afraid the bolts would come out and there is zero room to get your hands in to get them re-started again.
7. Lift the battery out while keeping in mind it weighs nearly 50 pounds and you will be stretched out a couple feet.
8. Reverse the process keeping in mind the battery bottom has to hook itself under a flange in the back and also fit back under the alum plate with the 2 - 6 mm hex bolts in the front. It took me a couple of tries to get this right. Tighten the 6mm hex and wiggle it back and forth to make sure it got gripped where it should.
9. I couldn't find the OEM crimp clamps locally so I went to my Ace Hardware and bought FOUR 4.5" gear drive hose clamps for $10. I put them on and measured the extra amount to cut off. Removed them again and cut and filed the ends. Then took polishing compound and polished them up to a very nice finish. I think they look just fine and will allow me to remove and reuse them again.
10. Be sure to follow the guidelines in your Quick Reference Guide on pages 33-34 or the Owners Manual pg 213-215 for re-learning and Start-Up procedures.
11. I used the same battery that I took out which is the Interstate MTP-49/H8 lead acid for $183 at my local Interstate store. My Dealer wanted $708 to do this job.

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awesome! finally something new not about a radio upgrade........Do it yourself! marvelous!

 

To remove the hose clamps, I just followed a couple of recommendations I read on F-Chat. A small thin flat blade screwdriver can pry the end apart. I tried to re-use them but couldn't quite squeeze it back together with my hands. I was told they are single use and you need a special tool to crimp them together. I have never seen the tool and maybe it can re-squeeze them back together. I would be happy to hear someone chime in if they can shed any light here. Another F-Chat friend said he ordered a set of clamps and the crimp tool on Amazon.

 

Huge thanks to Federal Man


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I replaced my OEM Odyssey PHCA 1350 (no longer available) with their current replacement: Odyssey ODP-AGM49 H8 L5. Was just under $320.00. It’s the same group 49 and fits perfect. It also has a red top so it looks great in the engine bay. FYI it’s a big heavy car battery that you have to lower out in front of you. Watch your back. Image Unavailable, Please Login


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BTW I have a 2014 without HELE.


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FYI, The Battery Remove / Replace procedure starts on page 1420 of the workshop manual and runs through page 1429.

 

Shop manual? Do you have a source for one?


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https://jmp.sh/Fx0nUjP

It may take a minute or so to load, be patient. You can download it from there.

 

I’m replacing my battery this afternoon. My procedure had one or two minor differences from the OP’s as you’ll see:

When moving the large diameter intake hoses, instead of loosening two sets of clamps and compressing the ‘accordion’ hose sections to remove them, I only loosened the two clamps in front of the throttle bodies, removed the center engine compartment skirt as well as the two on either side, then removed the six screws that hold down the cover of each air filter box and then lifted the combined hose/box cover and rotated them aside. It gave me more room in front of the battery. Then I laid both an old bath towel and an old chaise lounge cushion across the area where I would be working to protect the paint. I also unclipped the connector in the wires that are routed across in front of the battery, again to give me more room to see and work. I couldn’t get an Allen wrench down in front of the battery to loosen the two retainer bar nuts, so I bought a 6mm hex driver and mounted it in the long extension of my socket ratchet. There is also a large bolt in the engine cross member protruding about an inch or so, and I removed it to be able to lift the battery without hitting it.

I’m on a break now (I take lots of breaks!) so I’ll post the installation when I finish.

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Ok, All finished, and here are some lessons learned while reinstalling the new battery. This evolution can theoretically by done by one person, but I had to get my neighbor to lend a hand. Not just for the weight but because of the heat shield. The heat shield that wraps around the battery is a major impediment to getting the new one seated properly. It must be unsnapped at the front and the three sides, left, right and front, need to be pushed and tucked well out of the way or else the battery will snag one or more sides and scrunch it down under the battery. If that happens just go ahead and take it back out, smooth out the shield, tuck it out of the way more, and reinstall. I needed my helper to hold the battery while I grasped the top front of the heat shield and pulled forward and up on it to prevent it from being dragged down while my friend lowered the battery into place. Another trick I used was tying a piece of cord or something similar to the positive electrical panel and pulling it out of the way, because it wants to sag back into the battery cavity, then anchoring the other end of the cord to the frame at the fender.

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As far as the heat shield goes, I just lifted out the old battery while still wrapped in the heat shield. I unsnapped the shield and removed it from the old battery. I then wrapped and snapped the heat shield around the new battery and put the wrapped battery into the car. Went in no problem with the shield on the new battery.

 

I give you a lot of credit. I’ve replaced batteries on a few cars and, unless it’s absolutely necessary, I won’t do it again. The last battery I replaced was in a 2012 Porsche 911 Turbo that, while a pain in the ass, wasn’t dearly as difficult as this appears to be. The only reason why I did it is because it was going to take Porsche mobile service a week to get to our home and I didn’t want to wait.

 

I won't be winning any awards for my mechanic skills, but I like to stay involved with my cars for some of the basic stuff, and it does come in handy along the roadside, when there are no other choices. On the seventh entry for my 1957 Alfa 1900CSS in the California Mille last April, the professional mechanics (specializing in Alfa, too) hired by the event were able to rebuild the clutch save cylinder in my car along the side the road in about half an hour (see photo). At the very end of the thousand miles, a nut came off the alternator mounting bracket, also in the middle of nowhere, and I had it almost replaced by the time that the crew arrived, which felt good.

The guy who DID win an award for best mechanical skills in the event was driving his 1926 Lancia in very steep mountains on the second day of five when something broke in the driveline and the wheel went a good half mile further than his car, after it dropped to the ground. It was towed back to Rancho Mirage, where the owner went to Ace Hardware, bought some raw steel stock, and made his own parts, that lasted until the end of the event.

My closest Ferrari dealer wants THREE THOUSAND DOLLARS to replace a battery, and I was able to do it myself, which I also found satisfying, not because I had to, but because I could.

 

Changing the battery on the 2010 California wasn’t bad at all- much easier than I predicted after the reading prep I did in advance! Finding the correct Oetiker clamps was the hardest part. Eurospares had the correct ones in stock. BelMetric also had Oetiker clamps that would work if not the exact sizes.In the mean time, I’m getting by with standard 4” worm gear hose clamps until they arrive but want long term want to have the original clamps on the car because I’m somewhat anal!

 

New battery today in the Cali T.
Easy task. Can be done by anyone. It is better to have a second pair of hands to help.