DIY Cam Cover and Intake Manifold Gasket Change and variable valve adjuster Solenoid 599

Hey All, here is a DIY thread on changing replacing the head gaskets / cylinder head covers on a Ferrari 599. (Excuse the repeat words; I try to help people searching)

This is by no means a recommendation or directions on what you do for your car or anyone else; it’s merely me posting my own experience.

Parts so far (I work with [email protected] from Scuderia Car Parts. He is A+++++ to work with):
(4) 227185 (I know the car has more but I only need 4)
(2) 238411
(48) 14039614
208922
208923
(12) 223982
(4) 324069
(4) 324065
(6) 190151
(4) 149773
(8) 189710

(I added some extra clips, bottom 2. Mine are broke and I figure I can use one F430, 430, and 348 too)




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Start by removing the engine bay panels. The middle sides first, then the front (remove the power steering overfill hose). You can leave the corner ones.

Despite the Workshop Manual’s directions, I’m not removing the hood. So far, I haven’t had to.

You then need to remove the back middle panel by the windshield. First remove the rubber cap over the wiper arm mount (I did by hand, manual says use a flat device to pry off). It’s a 17mm nut that holds it on, remove it. I then had to twist and pry with a bit of muscle to get the arm off. **since the hood isn’t off, I put painters tape on the whole wiper assembly, and rag over it, so it didn’t chip the hood with muscle. I also marked the bolt head and the wiper with yellow market to ensure it’s aligned when I reinstall it for proper function.

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If you haven’t seen my other threads, I like to organize my parts I take off. I put them in order as I take them off, and I write notes as necessary. Image Unavailable, Please Login


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Now I took throttle bodies off. I removed all three clamps on each side (6 total) around the throttle body and aft of the MAF. Then carefully remove the clamps on the hoses that connect to stuff (one coming out of the intake manifold under the throttle body, one coming out of intake manifold aft of throttle body, one going in forward of throttle body by the elbow, one inserts aft side of elbow forward of the throttle body).

I disconnected misc electrical connectors too, like under the MAF to TB (throttle body) elbow.

Just take your time and find everything. There are some plastic clamps holding hoses/wires that need released too. Take your time. They break, and are cheap, so order more (I have them listed above).

This can be tricky. This pic is from my F430 but near identical to 599. Remove the one 10mm nut, then get behind it and disconnect the electrical connector, the. pinch the metal tips and pry it out: Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login

Here it is in the 599: Image Unavailable, Please Login


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Now I’m onto removing the intake manifold. There are 24 nylon lock nuts, 10MM. Take your time, Don’t drop them! Buy new nuts too; don’t reuse nylon lock nuts.

I bought new gaskets for this too. There’s 4 top, and 4 bottom, top and bottom are different part numbers. Again, listed above.

I used the closed end of a basic wrench. Ratchet wrench and socket was too bulky and I didn’t want to damage the paint.

I had to order some of the screws that go on top of the aesthetic “Ferrari” cover and the gasket that sits between those plates a-top the intake manifold and under the “Ferrari” cover plates. Some of my screws are rusty up there for some reason, and some oil is seeping through the back top of the intake manifold. Yes, I know oil shouldn’t be in there. In the last some name brand Ferrari dealer/shop over filled the oil. I rectified that issue already and cleaned it all up. Image Unavailable, Please Login


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Get a workshop manual.

Oh, you will also need a sealant / gasket maker for this job. I like Hondabond. I got #4 for this. Image Unavailable, Please Login


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Ferrari WSM says to remove the right manifold first. I think there’s a hose on the aft side of it holding it in still. Working through that. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login


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Unlike what the manual says, I removed the left side first. Because I couldn’t get to the small claps on the back bottom side of the intake manifold, between the manifold and the firewall (pictured below) I did this:

I unclipped the aft left (drive side) ignition coil. I separated the clamp that holds two hoses right next to it. I followed those hoses to front left wheel well area where they had quick disconnects. These are the hoses that attach to the back of the intake manifold.

From here, the manifolds came out. I did it by myself but I should have had a second person helping untangle the hoses as I removed the intake manifold. Be careful to not dent the car or scratch the manifold paint during removal; which is why two people would be better for this stage.

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I just realized I labeled this “head gasket” which is obviously incorrect. I’m doing the cylinder head cover gasket only, and the intake manifold tunnel gaskets.

Maybe an admin can change the title for me.


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Lol yea. Just got done doing that job on my 280z, so it was in my head. Hopefully an admin can change the title for us; I want to make sure people can find the thread if needed. So far, it seems my method is better than WSM and pointed out some gaps in that. The WSM is doing it with the engine out so they may have missed some things.

Just waiting on parts now to install.


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Do you mean to replace the exhaust manifold gaskets or to install an aftermarket exhaust assembly?

I figured the exhaust manifold gasket would be done from underneath, but if I’m doing redundant work from up top, then I’d change those gaskets now too. Some clarification would be appreciated.


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The Variable Valve Timing Adjuster Solenoid Valve connectors are difficult to get off. I got a clothes pin, bent the tip to make a pick, wedge a small zip tie one end to hold that side open while I picked the other and pulled with the other hand. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login


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Gotcha, thanks. I got the HGTE dealer installed package so I’m keeping that exhaust. I may do sport cats one day though.


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Unfortunately, I will be spending $4k to replace all 4 Variable Valve Timing Adjuster Solenoid Valves. Mine are seeping oil into the electrical connector, which means it will wick all the way through the wiring harness to the ECU and fry it. Sure, it’s rare, but it has happened. Apparently this is a known problem on these cars, plus other manufacturers too.


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Update: I’ve been spending time cleaning everything prior to removing the valve cover.

I ordered this shop vac brush attachment that has helped a lot. I also bought an air compressor to oil that shoots degreaser. Pics below. I’m going to use an air compressor to blow any remaining debris away that wasn’t vacuumed. I wanted to suck up as much as possible before contaminating the engine bay by spreading debris.

I disconnected all connectors in the tunnel area, maybe 10 of them or so. I cleaned each with Deoxit D5. I found that general electrical cleaner swells the orange connector seals and makes it near impossible to seat. Also, I put dielectric grease on the outside of all the seals to make them seat easier, seal better, and not seize.

I’m going to clean inside the runners too since there is oil sludge, which is normal. I’m going to first use seafoam, tooth brush, and a rag. I’m also going to vacuum out by the valves and cylinders, then use an air compressor to blow anything else out.

I’m going to rewrap some of the wiring with new heat tape. It gets brittle and unravels. I also found a lot of debris like leaves, dead bugs, and harness wrap down there. Combined with oil seepage, that’s a pretty good fire hazard…

Due to the sensitivity in this area, I am being super cognizant to not lose hardware.

Next steps will be to remove the ignition coils then the valve covers. I’m not done cleaning yet but good enough for some photos of progress. I also want to reiterate that it seems regular electrical cleaner is swelling the orange seals but higher quality deOxit D5 is not. I noticed this working on my F430 as well. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login




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Is an ecu tune required for them? Is the header job fully accessible from underneath or will I be doing redundant work with this job?


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So far, what I would do differently:
-Air compressor to blow out engine area prior to working on it.
-Put on lift and remove under tray incase anything drops.


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Anyone know how to access the right cylinder head cover’s back 10MM bolt?

There seems to be a metal oil line blocking usage of a ratchet and inhibits the angle necessary for a extender arm, even with a swivel connector.

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I took off the MAFs for more space. I disconnected the 2 oil breather/circulation hoses that come off the oil fill neck. This cleared more stuff from over the cylinder head covers.

I’m still figuring out a tool combination to get the back bolt on the right cover, there’s a metal hose that blocks tools getting to the head of the bolt.


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