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Discussion in '458 Italia/488/F8' started by Melvok, Feb 25, 2019.
I’m definitely looking forward to confirmation that it works.
Is it the service manual or the WSM Mark ?
I have the oem WSM but would like a service manual as well please.
Also I am very interested of the reset tool tests
The pdf I have is the WSM. Is there a different manual as well? The thing I have is 2,000 pages long.
It must be the same 2000+ pages imo, thought you had a service manual ...
Did anyone exchange the sparkplugs as DIY ?
Can you give us lots of details please ?
When is this due ? 60.000 kms ? Which ones ?
Tips on how …. and photo's ?
I changed my spark plugs last weekend. It's strange, from a dealer the plugs are only $20 each but the places like Ricambi are around $60 each. I had a misfire on one of the cylinders caused by old gas in the car. My car is 7 years old with 2,500 miles and I suspect the 1/4 of fuel it had when I bought it last fall could have been in there for a year or more.
Plan on lots of different size 3/8" socket extensions because there's not much room above to fit the wrench in and tighten the plugs. I borrowed a very expensive digital Snap-On torque wrench which made it a bit easier. Also, my intake was off the car because I had sent the injectors and rails away for cleaning. I don't know how you'd get at the front 4 plugs with the intake on the car. It wouldn't be a fun job.
FYI, I was able to get the oil and filter changed in my 2011. I've put about 100 miles on the car since I changed it; The thing that got me curious is that I put only 9 quarts of oil in the engine and my dipstick shows ~.5 inch over the max line even though everything I am reading says the engine takes 10.5 quarts. With the 9 quarts and the dipstick reading, I estimate that to be a 1/2 quart over of oil in the engine and I plan to drain that amount out. I did let the 3 drain points drain ~30 minutes before plugging them up. There was nothing else was coming out so I figured the engine was empty.
You changed your own oil???
That’s about $20k of impaired value on your car!
We need to reset the light.
Yes, I committed a horrible sin; Changed my oil! Whooo whooo! lol;
I agree on resetting the light; Let me know;
I believe I will tackle the antifreeze, air filter and cabin filter next.
Any success with resetting that light?
Not for me. I'm hoping to hear how the tool works.
I’m going to change my oil, for the first time myself, when I get the chance. It will probably be next week. I looked up the procedure for the proper capacities, and torques. My only question before I begin is:
Is it better to remove (unscrew) the air ducts off of the underbelly pan before removing the pan, or is it better to leave them attached, and remove as a unit with them still attached?
I have a drive on lift, and I can also jack it up off of the lift ramps if necessary, just in case that matters.
what way is easier?
I also still don’t have any solid answers regarding the proper tool to shut the green wrench light on the dash gauges. The closest I’ve come is that guy on YouTube, his name is super car normal guy, or something like that. He said that he used the Launch x431 pro mini and it worked. The only problem is that it’s about $700. There are some tools in the $200 range that claim to do that, but no confirmation yet from anyone that they work.
I took my car to my mechanic to reset the stupid (green wrench) service light. Only took a few minutes and best of all, no charge.
I enjoy having all the gadgets and tools, so I decided to order the Launch X431 pros mini last night. I will try it when it comes (by November 5th) and report back the results. I wanted the tool, not only for the oil light on this car, but for the ABS bleed function as well as other stuff.
When you took the underbelly pan off, did you leave the ai ducts attached the whole time?
That's great. Please report back. If I recall correctly, I unscrewed the brake air ducts and never removed them from underneath the car. I pretty much left them in place and just removed the underbelly pan.
I did the same with the air ducts underneath (drive on type lift). Removed the Phillips head screws securing the ducts to the undertray, the shape and lengths of the ducts are such that they stay in place unless the car is lifted further off the ramps.
On my Speciale, you have to remove the rear wheels to disconnect the corrugated hose which connects the air ducts to the caliper cooling chute then lift the car further off the ramps to allow the undertray to be removed. It's a bit of a project, and the undertray on the Speciale is carbon fiber so be careful of slivers.
Thanks guys, I'll just unscrew them and leave them in place.
I'll report back when I have more info.
Those screws can be a little awkward to line up, be patient!
It's confirmed!! The Launch X431 Pro Mini DOES work to reset the Yearly service Green wrench on the display.
The only unknown now, is the talk about it having only 8 available resets, then having to take it to the dealer to free up 8 spots on the computer for approximately $500. If that's true, that is not cool at all.
Here is the tool doing the reset:
The first time, I tried pressing the F148 option, but it didn't work. I had to press the F148 (Petrol) one for it to work. I'm not sure why, but as long as it worked, I'm happy!
Where did you purchase?
eBay. From Innovazhy
Good seller, fast shipping
Oh, and you didn't hear this from me, but I made an offer of $595 and he countered at $600
Awesome, exact info I needed. This will be my first purchase after I find the right 458.
I wonder what the differences is between the mini and the larger one if it has anymore functions?
After watching your video, I think you mean press F142 (Petrol)
Thanks for reporting back!