You test the wires going into the light for power first. If it is present, look at the circuit board. It is often obvious where the fault is: a failed solder point. If not, an electronics repair shop may be able to help for far less $$$$ than a new light costs.
Squeeky windows,’i had this problem on f430 and replace door seals at quite a cost Unfortunately it made no difference its actually an adjustment of angle of window No silicon, graphite powder or rubber grease will fix this Worse still i dont think there is any document specifying the adjustment Its trial and error
There is an update to the DIY Oilchange here: https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/458-diy-oil-change-procedure-yes-i-committed-the-ultimate-sin.466460/page-9#post-148335128
Any one here that has exchanged the dyno v-belt himself ? Is it difficult to get over the pulley's at all ? Need a tool ?
Well, after some considerable hard track use, my 458 has finally thrown a code, it appears to be an O2 sensor. I was able to find four new sensors (two front, two rear) online for quite a decent price. AW Italian in NJ supplied the rears. I figured I would do all four at once. My local Indy will be doing the work, but I will take pics and document it. My car is 9 years old (!) and 30,000 miles, so not surprising to see a sensor failure, given the FL heat and the sheer number of cycles. And running it hard. After changing all fluids (including DCT) later next week will be to clean the throttle bodies and do an intake manifold inspection. Air filter was replaced earlier this year, however I bought two replacements as standby. Plugs were done last year…… And pads, pads, pads……Pagids……also, new rotors coming from Surface Transforms soon. My hope here is to reduce/eliminate brake fade on the track. If you don’t track the car, needn’t worry about this one. Running with T/C off greatly extends pad life and improves performance (but comes with it own set of risks).
Use some high quality brake fluid! Also, an O2 sensor code doesn't necessarily mean a bad O2 sensor. It may be a sensor reporting a reading out of spec because there is something out of spec! Let your local INDY tell you what is amiss. It will likely be far cheaper for diag than just throwing parts at it.
Mel, I did the belt (Post #167 & 168 in this thread), however, I didn't change the tensioner. It seemed like it was in good condition, so I didn't mess with it. I would imagine that it's worth changing if there is any doubt at all. If anyone changed it, please post your experience. I hope it's easy!
How do you know when it is time to change the belt? What symptoms does the car exhibit to signal the belt needs to be changed? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Ferrari recommends every 2 years. From experience, I noticed that at the 1.5 yr mark, when it gets cold, I get a chirp sound when changing gears at higher RPM's (starts off very subtle). Then it gets worse and worse from there. Once I changed the belt, it's nice and quiet for another 1.5 years. It's always worse in cold weather. I think Ferrari nailed it with the 2 year interval. If you work on your own car, it's very cheap and easy to replace when doing the yearly oil change.
Thanx for all your support to us all in this group Chris ! My 458 is exactly 10 years old now, 60.000 kms; exhanged oil and belt last week. If I had known, I would have excahanged that littele bearing of $ 15 ... but sure will do that next time !
I believe he is talking about the tensioner pulley for the belt (It has a bearing that can fail with time and miles). I will probably replace mine at about 20,000 miles just for preventative maintenance, since it is most likely an easy replacement, and relatively cheap.
Something else for you guys to check on your 458's! It was brought to my attention by another owner to check the catalytic converter Bushings/mounts. They tend to dry rot and crack. I checked mine and sure enough, they were shot! I assume that they dry out and crack from the heat. They essentially hang the catalytic converters on rubber bushings. They cost $346.69 for left & right mounts and the mounting bolts, after shipping and tax (I decided to order new bolts, just in case, they were cheap enough). The install was interesting. Mechanically, it is a VERY easy install. If I had comfortable access, I would be done with both in 1/2 hr (since the engine compartment side panels need removing). However, the job took me about 2 hrs! The ONLY reason I took that long, is that the catalytic converter heat shield is attached to the mounting bracket/bushing. Once the 3 bracket screws, and the two bushing screws are removed from the hanger, I couldn't lift the bracket out of the engine compartment due to clearance issues. Therefore, I had to remove the two tiny hex screws holding the heat shield onto the bracket. I had to do this in a very awkward position, while working blindly by feel only. It was very frustrating, but I have a few hints on what worked for me. The removal of the screws wasn't that bad, you just reach in with an allen wrench and loosen the screws, then CAREFULLY (do not drop) remove the screws by hand. as far as putting them back, I have a few hints: 1) before you start putting the bracket back in, put a little oil on the threads of the screw and screw it into the bracket a few times, to make sure that the screw threads in easily. You don't need to struggle when working in awkward positions! 2) don't only buy the new mounting screws for the rubber bushings, also buy new screws and washers to mount the heat shield. I dropped 2 of the washers trying to get the outboard screws onto the heat shields (it happened on BOTH sides!) thankfully I had spare washers that were almost identical. There is no way you are going to find those once they fall, until next time you pull the belly pan. 3) when doing the reinstall, lay the bracket into position, but do not start to screw it in. Then attach the inner side (towards the engine) hex bolt onto the heat shield, and leave it loose. Then grab a mechanics mirror, and look at the outer screw hole (on the fender side), try to line it up. Once it's lined up, tighten the inner screw. Re-check that the outer screw hole on the shield and the bracket line up, once lined up, carefully insert the screw by hand, and tighten with allen wrench. 4) when installing the new mounting bracket, install the 3 screws that hold the bracket onto the car frame VERY loosely, then insert the 2 long bolts through the 2 bushings (be careful with the washers! don't drop when removing or installing) and hand tighten. Once the bolts are in the rubber hangers, THEN tighten the 3 bolts onto the cars frame. Once those are tight, then tighten up all the hardware to 25nm (18.4 ft/lbs) according to the shop manual. I hope this all made sense, but if it doesn't, it will definitely make sense when you start the job. By the way, after checking other cars, it seems that a high percentage of cars have damaged bushings. However, even though there is more movement on the old bushings, I'm not sure how important the replacement is because I'm not sure if that small movement makes a difference in an exhaust system or not. Since I'm so anal with my car, not changing them wasn't an option though, lol. Once I see a problem, I have to fix it! I want my car to always be 100% perfect (or as close as possible). Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
I would love to be able to leave it as well, but it would bug me too much. I'm a little nuts, so the $350 and 2hrs of my time was WELL worth my peace of mind, lol (I've done much worse than that! Look up the Bradan thread where my 360 had a dime sized chip in the paint, and it turned out to be a 3 month project, where the whole car basically wound up getting clear coated. There's definitely something wrong with me, lol)
My 2013 is at 35,000 miles, and the car is tracked pretty heavily. I do change fluids frequently and recently had all fluids changed, including clutch and DCT. The shifting going into 2nd was eating a bit rough and it is much smoother now (not my imagination). Blackstone is analyzing all fluids (except coolant) and I will post results once I get them. Other than brakes, tires, the drive belt, battery, plugs, and pre cat sensors, I have not had to do anything else. Car has been bullet proof and runs great, thank God.
Any more owners here who have checked for these broken cat bushings ? Foto's ? Let us learn from each other here
Hi Sorry for my basic English Melvok helped me a lot therefore I believe that I have to post some pictures concerning me battery swap on the Speciale. Image Unavailable, Please Login Take off the foot rest 2 longer bolts at top Image Unavailable, Please Login The oem is dated 2014! Not bad There is a,"lip " on the bottom plate making difficult to have the battery out after removing the fixations of the battery ] I took of the bottom plate Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
