Thanks, Mitchell. I missed that. In which case you can put the nut on the end of the broken stud an MIG weld it in place and unscrew that. Matt
I have 7 studs to pull, two are broken off and will require some finesse and the other 5 will have more options. I have been doing penetrate on the studs to prepare for removal while I do other tasks on bike. My go to Ducati site (ducati.ms) has some old salts on there that have been down this road before and they all say use heat but for some of these guys tearing an engine down in a day is no big deal so I like to select the best option that works for my comfort level. I used no heat on one stud that I removed, just a wrench with two nuts and penetrate and got it out but I lost a couple of threads at the top of the tapped hole in the case during the process. Before I re-assemble I will need to find a way to decide if it's good or just install a heli-coil there. Plenty of meat to add insert but I dont want to do it if I don't have to. Oh I got to buy my tool! This seems like a real nice thermometer that I can recommend. Very well made. Looks like its a division of Fluke so that is a big plus. I got it at my local Napa but I see that Amazon has it too, at a much better price! Noncontact Thermometer ? Raytek.com The handle pops open with no tool and the 9v battery slides into place. This is really nice for our humid environment where batteries go leaky in a few months! I am concerned about warpage so the tool will be used to protect from that and the heat is an issue as well because Ducati paints their cases! Image Unavailable, Please Login
I have no welding tools! That is on my list for when I get the kids off to college :-( Media Blasting Station Vertical Mill Welding Equipment Kiln ?? ?? What else does a retiree need?
The least expensive Lincoln 110 volt kit is very cheap and surprisingly good: Lincoln Electric K2185-1 Handy MIG Welder - Mig Welding Equipment - Amazon.com And it's perfect for this. You could also return the MAPP gas and get a real ocy-acetylene torch that could weld and cut steel and generate real heat. But you'd need to get cylinders locally and it is at least as much as the MIG. Good luck. It sounds like a great project! Matt
That looks like a fun toy! It's even the right color! Got three of four studs out today with the 50-50 mix of ATF and Acetone with nuts at the top. Taped off area, mixed atf and put into syringe applied to stud many times then started by tightening stud just a bit and then backed off a couple flats and then apply atf again and turn in a flat or two and then repeat until she came out! Three down on cylinder 1, just the broken stud remains. I will get busy with this tomorrow....unless there is still a good swell running! Did I tell you guys about my cool new thermometer and bottle of MAP gas? LOL All of today's work was done at ambient!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ebQdfqAmyt4 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fjlnqlWDbfo https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_ngsbj-OMIU Guido
I ended up grinding some flats into the broken stud and one hundred thousand vice grip turns later she came out! One more cylinder to go! Image Unavailable, Please Login
It was described to me, once...to weld a new hex nut, on to the top of the broken stud, and by the time you filled the nut up, with the weld puddle, and let it cool, the heating and cooling of the bolt itself would free it up (In an old American cast iron block)????
Desmo you say? Hmmm. Where have I seen that before? I know! A bike I bought in 1987 (900 Darmah) had that decal on it. Always wondered what that meant. LOL! OP... Kevin I think I've probably owned 150 Ducatis since then. I worked for Ducati for 4 years. I toured the factory in Bologna and snuck into the Corse department after opening the red door that said "Ingresso Vietato". I love this stuff so much I started a used bike sales shop 12 years ago. The valve guides on that era of 900SS are known for rivaling a firm parmigiano in terms of hardness. Since the heads are off I'd be very tempted to have them freshened up. Not a lot of $$$ or hassle if you have it professionally done. Of course, the globe will continue to spin should you not do that. Good work on the extraction... congratulazioni!
Oh Kie that is good to hear that you are up on the Ducs. This is my first one, I got it in March of this year with 2500 miles on it and put 3K miles on it until the problem. It is such a special machine, I don't mind working on it. I have had a few modern big bore street bikes and a few vintage Harleys but this one checks all the boxes for what I want in a bike at this time in my life. So special! Aloha.
Those are not very tight. We assumed you were having trouble. The head studs in the Ferrari and Alfa motors just laugh at vice grips or double nutting.
I have just regained feeling in my hand after squeezing the vice grips on and off 1000 times! ;-) Yes, still is!
Amen to that, Brian! Same for the mains studs. A Snap-On stud puller, PB Blaster, and a torch to break the Loctite on some was the workable combo for me. I extracted "all" studs from a 550 block with this combination, and only twisted off one little 6mm, which I then managed to get out with a new fangled version of an easy-out.
I agree with John (cribbj). The Snap-On CG500 stud remover will get the stud out without damaging the threads, although it will not prevent sheering off the stud if it is so inclined. The CG500 is the housing. You have to buy a different collet for each thread size. The housing/collet combination can also be used as a grip to hand-tighten the stud when re-installing. Hand-tightening is the maximum torque needed to install a stud. Be sure to thoroughly clean out the stud hole before re-installing a stud. Even the Ferrari factory left shavings in their stud holes. No threadlocker or lubricant should be necessary. Also, PB Blaster is good stuff. Tom 2007 F430F1 Coupé (Izzy)
Thanks for the tip on the Snap On tool! I will consider this for the one remaining broken stud I have left. The vice grip method was a pain, I will not repeat! Ernie, that is a good primer. I am clear on that technique but my studs are very hard material and I don't have a welder. The next broken stud I will get to, is a little longer than the last one so I have a few more choices.
All that looks great until you have a 14mm hardened steel stud screwed into aluminum buried down in a 3 inch deep hole and has been under water for 40 years. Until the actual job is encountered theories are very cool and all but hardly are they solutions.
In all fairness, this Ducati engine is much smaller and the studs are not buried in coolant for 40 years. It explains why the broken one came out with just vise grips. I have had a very hard time with Ferrari studs, even with the best tools. The Porsche 911 studs are also very prone to problems. Ducati, not so much.
By then it's galvanically corroded at that point to where it's now bonded to the block and has become fused adamantium and mythril able to resist even the hammer of thor, so yeah then it's time for the plasma cutting to commence.