Does oil filter housing gasket require sealant?

I diagnosed my leak in another thread as being the oil filter housing gasket. Should this gasket be getting a gasket adhesive/sealant on it when installing?
If so, what’s the correct type of adhesive to an apply on a part gasket for use with oil?

I replaced this last year because I had noticed oil pooling/coating in the area around it. It came off in multiple brittle and broken pieces. I cleaned both sides, applied the new paper gasket (dry), and reinstalled.
The leak came back.
I questioned whether I cleaned t well enough or torques everything to spec, so I removed it again, cleaned, put a new dry gasket, and torqued to spec.
Leak came back.
Today, I deep cleaned all the wet area again, and got all my mirrors and flashlights to inspect with.
I started the engine and laid in the engine bay as long as I could before it got too hot, and was able to confirm that the oil is indeed seeping from the gasket. It seems obvious that it needs a gasket sealant between the two bodies, but the WSM didn’t call for it or mention it, so I didn’t think twice about it until now.

Thanks!

 

Not the filter gasket. The gasket between the oil filter housing itself and the engine block.
Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

It’s leaking through the gasket in the picture below. I’ve replaced it twice now. I now believe it requires an adhesive, but the manual didn’t mention it. Just trying to confirm which type of adhesive for this application.

 

No, that’s the frame of the extendable mirror that I used to take the picture!

 

Thanks for the suggestions and advice guys.
I cleaned both mating surfaces incredibly well both times, using Brakleen and IPA. There was no surface damage on either surface. I’ll check all those products out and choose one.
FWIW, I did have to scrape red residue off the block surface, much like that which comes on the camshaft end caps, as pictured here from my timing belt job:

Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

That was my point. When I replaced this gasket the first time, there was leftover red material on the engine block that I did have to scrape off, so the factory gasket definitely had the same sealant. I don’t know thy the replacements haven’t had them. Each from a different supplier with genuine factory board numbers. Not sure why the difference.

This is not a part that most people ever take apart, so Honda Bond wouldn’t be ruled out due to that.

 

Interesting development to this thread. I looked up the part number to see if the current part number had pictures to see if it was supposed to have the sealant on it already. Turns out it is indeed supposed to have sealant. The last two I bought were from the same supplier, and it does have the current part number listed, as well as the number it supersedes, but neither had the correct sealant. I’ll call them on Monday to see if they can check if they actually have the new and correct one in stock and are willing to make it right, but if not, I’ll just find another supplier.
Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

The picture’s misleading. Ones turned over, so images are reversed. Both the bare gaskets I received line up perfectly.

 

Very happy to report that the housing is now as dry as a bone and leak-free for the first time in a very long time! I removed the gasket I had just installed, cleaned it thoroughly with brakleen and IPA, and let it sit in a container of oil-dry powder. Meanwhile, I thoroughly re-cleaned the area and mounting surfaces.
Once satisfied that it was clean and dry, I applied the Permatex gasket dressing to the gasket, reassembled the parts and torqued to spec. After letting it set overnight, I drove for about 2.5 hours the next day, bringing it to full temp. included several WOT pulls, and I couldn’t be happier to say that it is now as perfectly dry as the day it left the factory… maybe drier!