Door Lock Mechanism

Does anyone have any experience fixing the door lock. Something is binding inside the door mechanism causing the fuse to blow occasionally.The black "plunger" on the door is sometimes stuck so I have to fiddle with it to unlock the door by pulling on it. What's the best way to remove the mechanism so it could be troubleshot? Are replacements available?

I checked, and I think the problem is isolated to the mechanism that has the electomagmetic lock and the bits for lock/unlock electrically.

Thank you!

Bart

 

I'm not an expert on the mechanism, I do recall it's not easy to work on... I think you end up having to remove the outer panel with the strakes and the inner door card to even begin to get access to it. BUT! Before you dig into that, it seems that 9/10th's of the door lock problems on these cars are due to wire breaks and shorts to the electronic lock mechanism. There are a million threads on this common problem, but the low down is: where the wiring harness from the door meets the door frame of the main body, there is a round plastic plug. the wires in either side of that plug are often corroded or broken. Check those wires out first before you dig into the lock itself. It's easier access, and likely to be a problem source.

 

This is good advice because I had to replace the little plastic piece that connects the lock tumbler to the link that goes to the lock assembly (Hill makes a good metal replacement) and it can be done without taking the strakes off but as stated, there is not much room in there. If you do decided to take the lock assembly apart a real handy tool I used a number of times on this repair is the magnet on a flexible shaft to recover dropped small parts from the bottom of the inside door. Given the way it is set up I don't think that you having to wiggle the push button/lock would have any effect on an electrical issue so what was mentioned above seems to be the best choice for locating the problem. Good luck and keep us posted.

 

Will do, I already disassembled the door once, without taking the cheese grates off (all work from inside). Since it is a rather laborious process, I do not want to do it again until I have a good plan of attack - GTO Joe - I am going to do replace the plastic red piece with machined one while I'm there. I can tell you that the wiring is pristine and I already inspected it. I am almost 100% sure there is something that occasionally binds inside the actuator/electomagnet assembly that controls the electric lock. Hence the fuse blowing as the current is overloading. I just hope someone had the same issue and can give me guidiance on how to troubleshoot or even remove the actuator itself.
Oh, the car is 1990 348ts.

 

The Hill Engineering piece is here:

DLP348-355 Door Lock Repair Pin : Ricambi America

In stock @ Ricambi America.


.

 

Thank you. On my list already ;-) Just waiting until I have all necessary parts before I tear into this repair.