Hey everyone! Now my driver's side window won't go back up all the way. First step is to remove the door panel. I found one of the screws under the top of the handle, but where is the other one (on a standard testarossa)? My TR's interior was redone in ostrich leather before I got it. Can you tell me where your panel screws are? Thanks, as always! Image Unavailable, Please Login Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
And actually, after consulting the parts diagram, I can't see anything else that's holding the door panel on. How do you get the door panel off? Thanks! Image Unavailable, Please Login
Check up under the armrest piece and/or along the edge of the door where it wraps around the jamb and underneath. I haven't worked on a TR, but that's a common place on other models from that era.
You need to carefully remove the fibreglass door pocket #23 in the parts diagram. In there you will find 2 x 10mm bolts and the release for he door handle. There are a bunch 8 or 1o phillips head screws around the perimeter of the panel, you must also open up the little ashtray door and pull out the orange plastic light holder and remove the black manual door lock thing. Once you are in you can see how the glass is held in place with 2 alen head bolts that compress the window wire. If you have some mechanical knowledge it's a pretty simple design and you can see how the spring mechanism at the bottom of the door will dictate the travel of the window in the fully open or fully closed position. Let me know if you need any more info, I literally did this last week! Search for "slow window fix" you will see a bunch of pics and descriptions. Cheers
Ok I'm getting in! Question: does this door lock just unscrew like in every other car I've seen? This one doesnt want to budge! Image Unavailable, Please Login Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Btw yes once you get that tray out, there are 2 10mm bolts. Once you take those out you can easily pull the panel away from the door. Once I can get that door lock plunger off I'll be able to take it off! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Lol that sob wouldn't unscrew so I just undid it a little further down the line at the green clip. Thats how I got the door handle actuator off too. Just gently compress one side of the green clip, bend it back gently and slide out the wire. Image Unavailable, Please Login Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Dynamat looks like it was attached with gasket sealer... Image Unavailable, Please Login Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Soooo... after watching the insides of the door operate when the switch is depressed, it appears that all the wires are acceptably tight. The symptom is that the window will roll down just fine, but when you try to roll it up it will go up less with each try. For example, it started stopping about an inch from the top, then i went all the way down and then it would only go up to about 2 inches from the top, etc. now it's about 5 inches from the top. Interesting point though: the motor stops at the new stopping point. It shuts off, which makes me wonder if there's a 'stop' somewhere that's slipping and telling the motor to stop prematurely. Does anyone know how these windows know when to stop? Thanks, as always! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Joe have you rebuilt the window motors? The winding gear from the factory is full of a grease that by now has probably hardened into a gum like substance. Not a fun job
Joe, There is no limit stop when the window goes up. It just loads the motor down. Like Jeff said above, the main problem is dried up hardened grease like tar in the motor gearbox! You have to disassemble the gearbox and clean out old grease. Replace with synthetic grease. There is cable tool listed somewhere that keeps the cable together to help with reassembly. Block the window up with wood block, to keep the window up when you disassemble the cable. Make a diagram of the cable before you disassemble. It is kind of crazy pulley set up. It is tedious but can be done by self.
Thanks for the tips guys. I'll look at rebuilding the motor. Is there a way to manually raise the window to its highest point? I think I'd need to do that first in order to get the best access to the motor? And yes, the dynamat is from when they redid the interior in ostrich before I got it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Oh man! I love playing around with my car but doing those damn window motors are something I never want to do again. Such a small space to work in and that cable is a PITA to get back in place. Take lots of pictures for your own reference and search here. I also purchased the Rodney Dickman window accelerators, you can go to his website and read his info. Much to my surprise, i found the factory tool in my window motor that is used to hold the wire in place while you refit things. Let me know when you are going to tackle this and I will send it to you so you can use it. http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/whats-this.403802/
RE the lock.....yes it unscrews, counter clockwise while looking down from above. You can put your hand under the window and push the button up to try and assist it. The gear box job is a pain but it basically a needed item at this age. Cant really add anything to Ago's post and I would take up Jgmblairs's offer to borrow the cable tool. It makes a frustrating job a little easier. Its one of those jobs where you do one side, look at the other window and think, 'Not today'.
The tool in post #21 is what you need to refit the cable. I believe (been a long time since I did mine) Block the window, remove cable set up and you can push the window up manually. Hold the glass up with a wood block or rubber door stop.
here's a good thread on the Window regulators and more http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/lubricating-tr-window-motors.44288/ As for tools, easy to make. Also, I used a stair rail to spool the cables over the pulleys. NOTE: PAY ATTENTION TO THE CORRECT CABLE ALIGNMENT WHEN RE-INSTALLING. The WSM is incorrect but the attached link clears it up.
