Door panel material

I tried this material, easy to cut and drill etc

https://www.lathamtimber.co.uk/products/panels/plywood/birch-plywood/thin-finnish-birch

Once i fitted it i didnt really like how it fitted on the door, difficult to explain but it sat too straight, ie it didnt bend to suit the door, the material was too stiff. May have been better if i used something thinner than the original hardboard but went back to hardboard and much better.

Tony

PS- Dont forget the moisture vapour barrier, i fitted mine to the actual panel rather than the door as thats the bit you want to protect and secondly if you ever need to get inside the door to repair anything you dont have to bust through it.

 

Also look at 0.118" ABS plastic sheet, I used 2'x4' white sheets of this and it's what some shops use.
I made up cardboard templates then cut the ABS sheets and trimmed to trial fit and drilled the holes for screws and clips. Gave it to a trim shop to glue/staple the vinyl and padded backing, came out great and ABS can bend OK to fit over handles etc. Other plastics are likely too stiff, ABS seems to be the right balance.

+1 on the vapour barrier, the doors have quite an angle on them and water drips onto the backside.

 

A 'Post It' folded in half is .007".
I think it is of no difference.

Regards, Alberto

 

Got mine from online metals, it's just what they had

...just looked again is it's been 4-5 years, part #21776

 

Is there an e-bay link? Tried, but no results
Online M. is too expensive on the shipping, + I have 2 legs of freight.

Regards, Alberto

 

Alloy 5052 sheeting ?

 

The trimmer I used had worked on a lot of Dinos over the years and preferred to stay with the original factory method and use hardboard when replacing old door panels. I tracked down some waterproof plastic for the door membrane that was as close as possible to the original factory material we found on my unrestored car #04054. I can't recall where I got that material as it was 8 years ago now. To add an extra level of waterproofing the trimmer fitted some black plastic sheet to the rear of the door card.


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If you order new sealing pieces and then go to put them away - you'll probably find the ones you put away decades ago. Happens to me all the time

 

I used the original type hardboard and painted it with a durable two component automotive paint on the backside to establish a failsafe water barrier. Never had any issues since and I often wash my car pouring water down through the window opening. Hardboard is easy to work with and clips etc. will work fine in that material.

The picture below is the original board from 69. Still going strong but not particular straight after years of moister and water intrusion.

Best, Peter

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the edges have the vinyl plus 2 layers of backing rolled over and glued, then strips of edge piping are glued on top of this and the whole thing is stapled to the backing on the rear.
You can’t staple the alloy, and it all really has to be stapled down I believe.
I’ve replaced these panels with wood, it’s fine too but the ABS was better to work and fit (cutting with a sharp knife and bend to break).
Also, you can mark up white panels, black not so much. It’s all hidden so white works.

 

My soft alloy sheeting suggestion was just another among others and having (successfully) worked with, I know it being a viable option which can be stapled, riveted, etc, but if prepared properly for use with professional grade adhesives, can also be practical solution without any additional attachment hardware, especially if authenticity/originality is not a concern .
YMMV

 

3mm Marine grade plywood
Hydrotek BS 1088 "Dragon" is readily available, handles water better than most, and is easily workable yet thin

http://www.edensaw.com/MainSite/Store1/StoreProducts/ProductList/411