430 Dr S Manual Conversion

I want to share some tips to all looking to do the conversion to manual. After researching the market Dr S was the winner for me. I bought the hydraulic pump version kit and it work very well.

The installation is easy, if you have good DIY skills then the process should be very straight forward, no need to dismantle the car or read ''never ending'' instructions. Below some pictures and tips for better understanding

1. The first thing is to put the car in neutral and disconnect the battery, the F430 has a power switch in the trunk. These switches tend to break easily, so be careful

Image Unavailable, Please Login

Make sure to block the tires to prevent the vehicle from moving. It is preferable that you use a lift to have access below the vehicle, if you don’t have a lift available you can use jack stands or ramps. Always follow all safety measures.

To have better access during conversion, my recommendation is to remove the seats because you will have to work in the central tunnel, pedals and TCU. You need a Hexagon HW8 to remove 4 bolts from the seat base. Once you have the seat loose with your fingers remove the lateral cap to access the seat-belt bolt and remove the seat. Be careful with the connector below the seat, you must unplug it before removing the seat.

Image Unavailable, Please Login

Installation



Start with the installation of the clutch master cylinder and pedals followed by the Bowden cables, shift tower, shift actuator, F1 pump removal and programming.

1. Clutch Master Cylinder

Dr S have two options to choose from, you have the hydraulic version that works with the existing clutch release bearing seals and the brake fluid version that will require you to change the release bearing seals to be compatible with brake fluid systems.

If you ask me which option is better. Both will do the job; one is easier to install than the other because you don’t have to remove the transmission and the clutch but if you need to change your clutch and want to have the brake fluid version now is the time to do it.


Ferrari uses brake fluid in its cars and shares the same tank to supply the clutch and brakes.


In the hydraulic F1 version, the kit contains a spacer that position the cylinder in an area that allows easy filling of the cylinder with hydraulic fluid.

The clutch pump is installed in a hole between the front trunk compartment and the cabin, to get to it you must remove the trunk carpet and the top plate above the brake master cylinder. Remove wipers and Allen screws.

Image Unavailable, Please Login

Image Unavailable, Please Login

Image Unavailable, Please Login

Image Unavailable, Please Login

Image Unavailable, Please Login

Image Unavailable, Please Login

Image Unavailable, Please Login
Use a thin nose Wise Grip or similar tool to stretch the spring and install the other end after installing the clutch pedal and grease the spring attachment points.

Image Unavailable, Please Login
Install the pedal with provided central bracket, bracket securing bolt and two washers, switch, spring and positioning screw and nut.


Two provided white washers should be installed at both ends of the shaft. Additionally there are thin steel washers which should also go over the pedal shaft (including one on each side of the center bracket as needed to fill out any remaining space.


Hydraulic cylinder fork should be installed between the pedal and the clutch cylinder shaft.


Connect the pedal to the clutch cylinder using provided fork, bolt, white side washers on the sides of the pedal and a self-locking insert nut with a washer. Use extra washer(s) on the side of the pedal if needed to help to center the cylinder rod.

 

Image Unavailable, Please Login

Image Unavailable, Please Login

Per Dr S instructions adjust the clutch pedal to align with the brake pedal.

Pull the hydraulic cylinder rod fully into inside the car, without connecting it to the pedal yet. Using adjustment of the bolt with a rubber tip, located on the pedal mounting board, align the clutch pedal with the brake pedal when the clutch pedal is fully pulled back.

Adjust the fork and the nuts holding the fork on the cylinder rod, to align with the hole in the pedal’s bearing. Secure the fork to the pedal with the provide bolt and washers. Put nylon washers next to the pedal and use remaining washers to better align the cylinder rod to be in line with the pedal bearing as needed.

This ensures that when the clutch pedal is fully pulled back, it is not being stopped by pulling the rod but by resting on the bolt.

Adjust the clutch pedal travel following Dr S instructions or the factory manuals.

 

Removing the Central Console



Remove the ashtray, switches and screws holding the console.

Image Unavailable, Please Login

Image Unavailable, Please Login
Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

Install Bowden Shifter Cables

Image Unavailable, Please Login

Image Unavailable, Please Login
Remove spring rings at the back cylinders of the cables and push the cables, one at a time, into the hole where the plug was located. Do not push in the aluminum heat shield surrounding the cables yet. Note that there is another hole behind the first one and the cables have to go through both of them to reach under the car.

After the first cable is inserted with the cylinder going through both holes insert the second cable, with the cylinder likely not being able to clear the second hole. Go under the car, while pushing the first cable to the top of the hole, pull the other cylinder through. After both cylinders are under the car, push through the aluminum heat sink.

Leave plugging in of the new plug which surrounds the cables to the end to make it easy to connect the cables and adjust the cables length first.

Image Unavailable, Please Login

Removal and Replacement of the F1 Actuator with Manual Actuator



Removal and replacement of the F1 actuator with manual actuator can be done as follows:

- Work from under the car with the wheels and bumpers in place, best if you have a jack stand, ramp, or similar device available to lift the car.

Image Unavailable, Please Login
Depending on the type of exhaust used, there may not be enough room to pull out F1 actuator which may be obstructed by the catalytic converter. Thus the catalytic converter may need to be unbolted.


In my case I didn’t have to remove the catalytic converter. Disconnect the hydraulic hoses and remove the actuator. Have several towel rags ready because hydraulic fluid may come out.

Image Unavailable, Please Login
Image Unavailable, Please Login

Image Unavailable, Please Login

Below we can see the actuator installed. Put the car in neutral and the gear lever equally positioned in neutral between third and fourth. Slide the terminals and tighten the nuts. At this stage you will be able to move the gears, some may have difficulty, but it is a matter of adjusting the gear lever when driving the car.

Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

Installing Shift Tower

Before bolting in the tower, connect the two bowden cables, one is simply pushed into the ball on the bottom of the shaft (lubricate the ball to make it easier), the other is pushed into the side shaft of the plastic “triangle ” and secure it with the screw and nut provided.

Image Unavailable, Please Login

Connector for the reverse switch is located on the left side of the tower, coming out of the thick bundle of cables, under the carpeted cover.

Adjust the cables so the gears can be shifted. Do not install the carpets inside the car yet. Similarly do not install panels under the car, as additional adjustments after driving the car are usually necessary.

Have the instrument cluster and ECUs programmed, check that everything operates correctly and go for a test drive

What has worked for me may not work for others, so I do not take any responsibility for any potential damage or injury to you or to your car – please use this information at your own risk.

 

I eliminated completely the e-diff. Here:

https://www.scuding.com/Shop/en/ecu-solutions/126-smart-ferrari-f430-ediff-bypass-ecu.html

Car feel much better without it

 

Dr. S (George) can answer. Unfortunately I can’t discuss but he have the solution

 

The E-Diff had been discussed before, search the forum. If someone wants to keep the e-diff scuding.com offer a solution. When doing the conversion you have to keep the F1 pump in the car and just eliminate the F1 actuator with hoses

 

I don't want to cause a debate regarding the e-diff, as mentioned before anyone interested in eliminating the nanny's e-diff should do a research. I am not in the business of cars like other members here, I collect car's, race cars and love to work in my cars and help others as well. If there is any questions feel free to send me a DM or call George directly. Finally, there is a good article about ediff, start your research reading this article e-diff McLaren