Dual clutch shudder - first gear from start - SUH | FerrariChat

Dual clutch shudder - first gear from start - SUH

Discussion in '348/355' started by akorna, Jun 8, 2019.

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  1. akorna

    akorna Rookie

    Jul 7, 2016
    41
    Virginia Beach
    Full Name:
    Joe
    Good Morning,
    This is my first foray into the clutch ('89 Mondial t - 36k miles - original clutch). First gear takeoff has a significant shudder 8 out of 10 times (worse when fully warmed up) unless I start very, very slowly with lots of clutch modulation. The triple seals were leaking, so I replaced with the assist of forum posts. I clean all the components with brake cleaner (assuming it was oil contamination causing the problem) and reassembled, but the condition remained. No other symptoms, no throwout bearing rattle.

    I pulled the pumpkin again - no signs of leakage and wanted to check the set up height and measure plate thicknesses - found all the dimensions, but couldn't find the checking procedure in the forum for set up height (47-51 mm). Can anyone point me to the procedure? Thanks in advance.
     
  2. Wade

    Wade Three Time F1 World Champ
    Owner

    Mar 31, 2006
    32,793
    East Central, FL
    Full Name:
    Wade O.
    I found this post:

    From this thread:

    https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/348-clutch-to-resurface-or-not.226968/

    I also attached the Twin Plate Clutch part of Section D (348 WSM).

    Hope this helps.
     

    Attached Files:

  3. akorna

    akorna Rookie

    Jul 7, 2016
    41
    Virginia Beach
    Full Name:
    Joe
    Wade,
    Thanks for getting back to me so quickly! I had looked at those references earlier and have the specs, but not the measuring procedure. I did make an attempt to measure using a reference point (top of a 2-foot level across the top of the clutch and measured down to the two points) and the compressed thickness of the driven plates using various size allen wrenches - +/- 0.25 mm accuracy.


    The Ricambia link didn't work for me I think this is the updated link
    https://www.ricambiamerica.com/car-diagrams/ferrari/v6-v8/348-group/348-1989-1992/clutch-controls.html
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  4. akorna

    akorna Rookie

    Jul 7, 2016
    41
    Virginia Beach
    Full Name:
    Joe
  5. Wade

    Wade Three Time F1 World Champ
    Owner

    Mar 31, 2006
    32,793
    East Central, FL
    Full Name:
    Wade O.
    I went through a similar process about 4 years ago but don't recall exactly how I measured the stack.

    Here's a older quote from fatbillybob:

    You will need some gehetto tools: calipers, straight edge, c-clamp or bench vise, good light. Do a bit of web research...I'll talk you through checking "set-up" height", plate thickness uncompressed and compressed, intermediate plate,thickness, freedom, flatness , roughness, flywheel thicknes,flatness and roughness , pressure plate finger/counter weight exam to start. If we get though that you grease the flywheel guts and reassemble with new triple seals. There are some good threads on this on the 348 board written by others.
    Above from my clutch thread, with pertinent (?) info for you beginning at Post #54.

    https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/tips-tricks-for-re-installing-a-348-clutch-housing.496907/page-3

    However, in my experience, clutch judder is usually caused by contaminants on the plates and/or flywheel. Also, if the stack was inadvertently reassembled incorrectly (e.g. flipped over plates or rotated a few degrees).
     
  6. Ferrarium

    Ferrarium F1 Veteran
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    Jul 28, 2018
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    Eric
  7. Wade

    Wade Three Time F1 World Champ
    Owner

    Mar 31, 2006
    32,793
    East Central, FL
    Full Name:
    Wade O.
    Buying the appropriate/applicable parts, I'd say yes. But having the discs relined, I'd say "check twice". :)
     
  8. m.stojanovic

    m.stojanovic F1 Rookie
    Silver Subscribed

    Dec 22, 2011
    3,242
    Serbia - Niš
    Full Name:
    Miroljub Stojanovic
    1. If the clutch discs were contaminated with oil (or brake fluid) it is almost impossible to "dry" them up again. The oil would have soaked deep into the disc friction material and you woild need to replace them.

    2. Were the pressure plates skimmed before? If yes, this could be a reason for the shudder if the plate surfaces were skimmed/resurfaced to flat. The pressure plate surfaces are originally not flat but very slightly conical for smoother engagement.
     
  9. akorna

    akorna Rookie

    Jul 7, 2016
    41
    Virginia Beach
    Full Name:
    Joe
    Ferrarium,
    Yes, that should do the $$$$ trick! I'm looking for a cheaper solution first.

    Wade,
    I searched, but couldn't find anything that addresses the process in detail - so for now I'm using my approach - hopefully not missing something. Since my measured/calculated number was 49 mm and the range is 47-51 mm then I'm in the ballpark. I guess if your stack too short then you'd add shims, too tall and you'd have to remove shims or mill the intermediate plate?

    I tend to think it's an issue with oil contaminated friction plates - interesting when I measured the uncompressed thickness that the flywheel side plate averaged 7.37 mm and the bearing side was 7.22 - the "new" spec is only 7.25 mm and clearly there is wear, so perhaps oil/oxidation has caused them to swell? When I attempted to measure compressed thickness the flywheel side plate was only 5.5 mm, which was below the spec of 6.10.

    You mentioned the possibility of plates being "rotated a few degrees." Are the friction plates supposed to be in some sort of rotational alignment other than just the splines lining up?
     
  10. akorna

    akorna Rookie

    Jul 7, 2016
    41
    Virginia Beach
    Full Name:
    Joe
    Thanks

    1. Yes - leaning towards the oil contamination cause

    2. I don't believe they were skimmed, but have no history and I've had the car for three years - also a possibility as you mentioned.
     
  11. akorna

    akorna Rookie

    Jul 7, 2016
    41
    Virginia Beach
    Full Name:
    Joe
    Problem Fixed.

    I had tried cleaning the discs with brake cleaner and reassembled - the test drive showed no improvement after the car was warmed up - still shuddering with first gear start, so back apart.

    I was out of town for three weeks, but decided to send the discs out for relining to ALL FRICTIONS CO. (Tim Doran) PORTLAND, CT, 860-342-2001
    [email protected]. Tim confirmed oil contamination, but noted very little actual wear. I got them back in a week, but couldn't install until yesterday. In addition to the new lining the frames were bead blasted and painted. They stamped a "B" on the bearing side disc and "F" on the flywheel side disc. The cost was $198 (organic material) total for both including shipping.

    I had also noted during the disassembly/reassembly that there are a lot of metal to metal contact surfaces that clearly have to be clean and smooth for the plates to move. there was surface oxidation and wear marks that I cleaned carefully with a scotch brite pad and brake cleaner. During reassembly I applied a very THIN film (more like residue) of copper grease to the contact points to make sure there was no binding of the assembly in operation.

    I bolted the clutch assembly back together and took the car for a test drive - shudder was gone, engagement smooth and positive and no evidence of slipping. I believe the oil contaminated clutch disc linings represented the majority of the problem, but wouldn't rule out binding assembly as a contributing factor.

    Pictures of New/Old discs...


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    SoCal1 likes this.
  12. Ferrarium

    Ferrarium F1 Veteran
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    Jul 28, 2018
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    Good job! Who figured the thickness required for the plates, did you tell them or did they use a spec?
     
  13. akorna

    akorna Rookie

    Jul 7, 2016
    41
    Virginia Beach
    Full Name:
    Joe
    I provided them with the spec thickness, but of course they measured the clutches I sent. As I noted I had very little wear on mine, but they were oil contaminated.
     

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