Dual Mirror Switch

Here is the fried switch circuit and after it was repaired. My friend is an expert at fixing boards like this, so the credit goes to him. He used trace copper and then soldered. I deoxed the board and lubricated the sliding mechanism. I am not sure if the switch was defective when purchased. I am now reluctant to bench test the switch to the two mirrors as I may fry the switch. If I use my multimeter, it won't help me identify when the polarity of the motor is reversed. Does anyone have a schematic for the dual mirror switch. As later models had the switch on the door, this switch is the joystick type on the center console.

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Your link is most helpful, I have two switches and the colors on the six contact points vary, so the number pin is better. On the back of the mirror motor/gear gambol the four posts for the motor and solenoid have a corresponding color stamped into the plastic cover. While the wire colors may be different than what shows on the plastic, your schematic matches the stamped wire color.

Your comment about the EMF makes sense. What diode and capacitor did you use? Interestingly, I finally had both mirrors working correctly on the bench. Mapped where the wires went and disconnected the battery for the night. When I re-energized the next morning the solenoids were not engaging. When I took apart the swtich, #3 or yellow wire was where the board was fried. So maybe there is some power surge that comes back through from the solenoid. I will install a fuse when I install. I will probably use an old style glass fuse type. What amp fuse should I use? I wont install the fuse under the console but somewhere more accessible under the dash or under the new radio which will have an a DIN opening.