Dynamat and thermal results | FerrariChat

Dynamat and thermal results

Discussion in '206/246' started by HMB-Dino, Sep 12, 2010.

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  1. HMB-Dino

    HMB-Dino Formula 3
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    Can anyone who has installed this product (or something comparable) in their Dino passenger compartment or trunk attest to its effectiveness, particularly with regards to reducing heat?

    Separately, if used in an otherwise original car, does it impact how the car would be judged in a show?
     
  2. dm_n_stuff

    dm_n_stuff Four Time F1 World Champ
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    From a councours standpoint, the Judges won't see it, so that's a non-issue.

    I did install some on my Dino, hoping to reduce the heat coming into the cockpit especially through the center console area. It did not have any appreciable effect.

    I think you'd have more success trying to better insulate the piping going from the engine compartment to the radiator as a way to reduce heat, but, the only real way to cool things off is to open the windows and go fast.

    D
     
  3. UroTrash

    UroTrash Four Time F1 World Champ
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    Noted.
     
  4. HMB-Dino

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    As part of the radiator replacement, the heater hose that goes from the radiator to the engine was also replaced. It turns out that this hose actually runs thru the steel tubing of the frame, so insulating it would be difficult if not impossible. When I drove the car (still waiting for it to be sent home to me), the most noticeable heat was at my back, obviously meaning thru the bulkhead. Since the bulkhead vinyl panel is easy to remove, I thought I would `bulk up' with modern day heat shielding material at that location. And while I'm at it, beef up the heat shielding at the front of the rear boot since that wall opposite the engine has a reputation of heating up the boot and anything stored there.
     
  5. JCR

    JCR F1 World Champ
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  6. Nuvolari

    Nuvolari F1 Veteran
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    Dymat is more of a sound supressant while there are better products out there for heat insulation. Check out the products at the following site as they have good things to hold out heat:

    http://www.thermotec.com/

    One of the things you want to try and eliminate is heat that is conducted through direct contact as opposed to heat that is conducted through air. The heat you feel off of the firewall is conducted by air from the engine bay and can be reduced substantially with some of these coatings and coverings. The good thing is that it will be 100% hidden so it will never come into play with concours judging.

    The hoses that run throuugh the chassis is harder to deal with and I am presently investigating what can be done to keep the heat out of the center tunnel. Any solution would require extreme dis-assembly but it is possible to do something positive. The key is in getting the coolant tubes out of direct physical contact with the frame tubes and I'm looking for sheathings that can be placed on the tube to reduce its contact patch with the steel frame tubes.
     
  7. dignini

    dignini Formula 3

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    That's a nice line of products, seems to cover most needs
     
  8. HMB-Dino

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    Note that the thermal protection I want to install would need to go in the passenger compartment. From reading about a few of the mentioned products, they seem to be for placement at the source of the heat...aka, in the engine compartment vs on the passenger side of the firewall/bulkhead.

    And the descriptions of the Dynamat Xtreme and Dynapad do say they're for both sound insulation and thermal protection.
     
  9. dignini

    dignini Formula 3

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    Sealing the the cabin, making sure there are no areas for hot air to get through, would be high on my to do list.
     
  10. jselevan

    jselevan Formula 3

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    Dynamat, while primarily a vibration damper, has an aluminized refllective surface that will reflect infrared. Hence, radiatant heat will be reduced, as experienced with aluminum foil. However, placing Dynamat or aluminum foil on the engine side of the bulk head will do little to reduce cabin heat.

    The hoses running for/aft are a major culprit. If one removes the bottom panel of the car by drilling out all of the rivets (rather easy to do on a lift), then you will find a cloth/fiber 1970s vintage insulation. Rather poor, and likely no longer helpful. I removed all of mine when restoring the car. What I failed to do was to replace it with an alternative. This insulation sits between the metal chasis tube and the fiberglass passenger tub. There is approximately 3 to 5 cms of space. I recommended to Jon G. that he place new insulation when reassembling, so he may have experience. I plan to inject a foam insulation. This can be achieved by using a long flexible hose and inserting it from either the front or rear. Take care not to bind the shifting mechanism as this is exposed where the shift box is bolted to the chassis.

    In addition, a major source of heat is the radiator. Careful attention to the foam above the radiator, the rubber bulb-profile seal on the leading edge of the spare tire compartment, and careful application of a tar-based seal material around the ventilation (paper) hoses as they penetrate the spare tire area all will reduce the hot air entering the cabin. Finally, careful attention to all of the holes in the front footwell/cowling, such as clutch cable, wiring harness, heater cables, etc., will reduce hot air flowing into the cabin.

    Perhaps the best way to reduce hot air is to not allow me to reply to posts.

    Jim S.
     
  11. BigTex

    BigTex Seven Time F1 World Champ
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    It's hidden under carpets and door trim panels, see omyjon's resto thread he used it extensively....
     
  12. BigTex

    BigTex Seven Time F1 World Champ
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    BWAAAAHA HA HA!!

    Good point about sealing the forward bulkhead, paying attention to the 'now gone or dissolved" OEM open cell foam seals, at the core support and hood.

    Possibly insulated the aluminum tubes running fore and aft????

    Driving home from Chicago I could see this foam blowing out the fender grills of my 308GTB......LOL!
     
  13. dignini

    dignini Formula 3

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    I ran for a a while with no panel under the car and noted the rush of hot air coming up through the handbrake and gear shift areas. At standstill the air blown by the radiator fans was really felt. On balance blown hot air will heat up the cabin more than radiant or conducted heat.
    I am not sure what that original insulation did other than stop some air flow.
     
  14. HMB-Dino

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    I did notice that he blanketed the interior with this material, but I don't recall seeing any report on how beneficial it was...thus the reason for my original posting. His resto is actually where I first even heard about Dynamat products.
     
  15. HMB-Dino

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    Not to worry, I wrapped insulation around your hot air and only allowed your great advice to escape thru!
     
  16. jselevan

    jselevan Formula 3

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    Ron G - I placed Dynamat everywhere - inside door skins, roof, the entire surface of the fiberglass passenger tub, trunk floor and side panels, etc. The advantage is related to sound deadening. The car is much quieter now. Instead of a drum-head sound heard when tapping the roof or door skin with your finger, I now hear a simple, low volume "thud". If performance is of concern, one must consider that the Dynamat is rather heavy, with approximately 20 kilograms added to the car (50 pounds or so).

    Another method to reduce heat is to remove the heater core(s) from the coolant circulation. It is likely that the heater valve is not 100% sealed, allowing for some constant flow even when off. There are several approaches to doing this. Jon G. did illustrate one during his restoration. However, in his approach he disconnected the line running from the T-junction forward of the hose tunnel, and sealed the rubber hose (Jon, correct me if I have this wrong). The return, running the length of the car from the other heater core, along the rocker panel, to the base of the thermostat housing is left intact. Hot water will eventually, through convection, find its way to the heater cores. An alternative would be to disconnect both inflow and outflow with appropriate seals.

    Jim S.
     
  17. HMB-Dino

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    My other weekend car is a 2008 Porsche Cayman S, also mid-engine. Porsche has done an amazing job minimizing engine noise and especially thermal impact to the passenger compartment (esp when you consider the Cayman has a 3.4L 295bhp engine less than 12 inches from your ears). So even though the Dino and Cayman S are roughly 37 years apart in age and thermal/noise technology, I'm simply looking for effective and hopefully low cost ways to reduce the baking effect for the Dino passenger compartment.
     

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