E39 M5

I would personally go for an 01 or newer due to the cosmetic changes with new head and tail lights. I would avoid the earlier years esp 99 because of problems with new technology.

 

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Just about everyone with a 2000 has done the headlight change, I know that was one of the first things I did.

2000's are ok, if they are built after 03/2000. Thats when they got the same ring and piston designs as on the later cars to help combat oil consumption.

Mine rarely drinks oil unless its been through a trackday or something like that.

I'm coming up on 100k on mine, no real issues to report. I did have the Vanos go bad, but it was to be expected at some point, and with that out of the way, it looks like I'm good for another 100k or so. I was trying to get myself to buy an E60 M5, but I just can't do it, decided to go with headers and a bunch of other stuff on my old girl.

As with most used cars, service history is the key. And taking the proper precautions as an owner. I drive mine very aggresively, yet it dynoed pretty high recently before all the parts started going on, close to 350 at the wheel (usually between 335 and 350), and thats at close to 100k miles.

The interior looks brand new, i do the usual cleanings and have it detailed every six months. Its really amazing actually. The leather is much higher quality on the M cars than normal.

There isn't much in the way of options. Just park distance control, power rear sunshade, "M" audio and interior trim. Also, the earlier cars could be had with "exclusive leather" which replaced every surface on the interior of the car with leather. I have it, and its a nice touch, I think the option was available in later cars, but the name was changed to something else.

Negatives are: Fuel, I can get an average of 18 mpg if I drive normally, but I can't drive normally so its more like 14.

Tires: Rears can go bad in as little as 10k, depends on how you drive and how often you check the alignment. BMW's have a lot of camber in the back, its why they have the "feel" that they do, but it wears the crap out of the tires if you don't corner very aggressively. Your two options are to have it adjusted outwards again, or drive more aggresively, obviously I choose the latter.

Brakes: Mine hast forever, but they can be a spendy replacment at the dealership, plan on about 700 for the front. I can't remember the rears off the top of my head. Many switch over to the Euro floating systemwhen getting the brakes done.

Oil: Specifically the type, it takes a castrol 10w/60 synthetic that I have only managed to source from BMW and ferrari dealerships.

No spare, M cars don't come with them. It leave a nice big storage area under the door in the trunk though, its where I mount the DVD changer and TV tuner currently, and a can of fix-a-flat.

Clutch: Why bmw put a 9.5 inch disk in there is beyond me, thats what comes on an Accord, not a big V8. Anyhow, some owners can only get 25-30k out of them, I'm closing in on 100k and still have the first one, though its finally starting to slip. Factory clutch is about 800 plus install, though I can't see why you would put another one in. Dinan one is about 1200, the full blow UUC clutch which uses a 12 inch disk out of the 850 CSI and can withstand motors up to about 650 lbs of torque, with a lightweight flywheel runs about 2600, though amazingly it drives like stock. Just don't let a non-qualified person install it, they have to be put in right or you get problems.

Thats about it really.

Popular mods:

-Headlights, you have seen that already though, the Euro ones have clear corners
-MKIV DVD nav system and widescreen for pre-02' cars. Simply plug and play and you get the latest nav system. Definately worth it in my book, get them on ebay or from europe pretty cheap (where I got mine)
-Exhaust, its kinda tame as stock, has a nice grumble to it, but many go with Tubi's etc.
-Celis tail lights, again, like the headlights, just makes them look newer, have to mount ballasts though
-Suspension, when it wears out, most people switch over to Koni Adjustable shocks with stock springs, gives even more of a sporty ride with no change in comfort and is cheap. You can also get into much more if you choose, but it handles very well for a big sedan already.
-Rear Wheels on the front. Again a cheap one, you can find a set on ebay or something like that, I paid 350 bucks for mine. Balances out some of the understeer
-Intake, doesn't give much power, but the Active autowerkes one has ram air ducts that go in the front grill, that also cool the brakes, I consider this more cosmetic than anything though.
-Carbon interior pieces, you would think it would be "ricey" but it actually looks very good
-Short shift kit, actually do this first, the factory stick is really long with kinda sloppy throws. Its the one piece of the car that really just doesn't make sense at all

check out the Discovery Automotive site if you are curious, they will ring up a full blow custom supercharger system for it that can put out up to 1000 HP, there are a couple of them running around now, the owners are on the M5 board. They detune them to about 800hp on the street though. They never list a price on their site, but its rumoured to be about 60k


Really about it. I'm shooting for a 400 RWHP on mine, then I'm going to drive it until it falls apart (probably won't ever) so far nothing has come along that justify's the cost of upgrade at this point