My alternator fail a few weeks ago. The alternator light never come ON and left me stranded! So i got a modern alternator (generating 90A at idle) and modify the alternator bracket to mount the new alternator. Now I have a modern reliable charging system that will handle both fans coming ON at the same time for less than $150.00. However I still did not trust the alternator warning light, so I got a mini voltmeter/display unit of Ebay: (http://www.ebay.ca/itm/LED-Digital-Voltage-Voltmeter-DC-2-4-30V-2-Wire-LED-Display-Panel-Car-Motorcycle/162336765007?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=461359023815&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649). Installed it in the dash in an empty slot in the lower right hand side and now i have piece of mind. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Nice Marco. What alternator did you use? A denso Ahh heck I just checked a toy alt I have here, looks like a winner same pully also
hello and thank you for sharing. I find the result very discreet. do you have a photo tutorial of your assembly, as well as your fixing procedure. again, top
Sorry, i did not take any additional photos. What I did was buy a LED Digital Voltage Voltmeter (as per the Ebay link). These are a small form factor 3 segment digit LCD with a integrated circuit to measure voltage. I epoxied the back to protect the exposed circuit and strengthen the two wires. I also trimmed the two mounting tabs on either side of the device with a Dremel. I then removed the instrument cluster (very simple by removing the two Philips screws at the bottom). I then disconnected the five connectors at the back of the instrument cluster to remove from the car. Once removed, gently pry the bottom indicator lens (running across the bottom of the instrument cluster). I then removed the plastic with the indicator symbols and trimmed the right most spot. On the instrument cluster cell there is no light but there is a removable bulb cap. I removed the bulb cap and ran the wires of the volt meter in the hole left by removing the bulb cap. I then inserted the voltmeter in the free cell and reassembled the indicator lens. I then found a source of 12 volts from the instrument cluster (+12 directly from the tack, and -12V from the oil gauge.). I then reassembled everything!
I did the very same thing on my motorcycle (which has a history of charging issues). Be aware that you should measure the voltage at the battery and then using the new meter itself, just to be certain that the readings are the same. My dash meter reads exactly 1v lower than across the battery terminals of the bike. In other words, if I have 14.4 at the battery, my dash meter reads 13.4. Once you get accustomed to the 'normal' reading, it's fine for monitoring the health of the charging system. For what it's worth, the meter is getting it's voltage from the dash illumination (always on with a motorcycle, key 'on') 12v+ and grounded to a common ground on the cluster.
Over the years, i fixed a few grounding issues with the 348. My voltage reading from the dash 12V source is less that 0.1Volts off.
[QUOTE = "marcov, poste: 145651160, membre: 57655"] Au fil des ans, j'ai corrigé quelques problèmes de mise à la terre avec le 348. Ma tension de la source 12V du tableau de bord est inférieure à 0,1Volts. [/ QUOTE] Bonjour, avez-vous des conseils à nous donner suite à votre expérience sur les masses à améliorer.
