ECU Code Help | FerrariChat

ECU Code Help

Discussion in 'Technical Q&A' started by mebozart, Oct 27, 2022.

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  1. mebozart

    mebozart Rookie

    May 16, 2022
    45
    Bloomington, Indiana
    Full Name:
    Matt Bozarth
    I just got my car started after some minor restoration. I purchased the car not really running so I don't have much of a driving history. However, we did a major service where the fuel system was rebuilt (new pumps and Injectors). Replaced Ignition wires plugs and several gaskets. I purchased the kit from Ricambi so everything that came with the kit was replaced. Anyhow, we got the car started and it idled very high. Found that the Idle stabilizers were bad so I replaced them. It now idles fine and sounds great. I put a Larini muffler and test pipes on it. I do however have three codes in the right ECU that we are sort of stuck with.

    The ECU throws codes for bank 1-4. Those codes are 1111 (hot airflow meter), 1121 (RPM Sensor), and 4121 (Catalyzer Temp ECU). First method was to ohm the throttle body and found that the resistance on bank 1-4 to be .508. We removed the plug and made the adjustment to make the resistance .383. That did nothing for any of the codes. We then switched ECU's and nothing. After that, we switched Exhaust ECU's and nothing. Finally we switched the temp sensors in the exhaust. After all that, bank 5-8 is not illuminated and 1-4 is still illuminated. We did back probe the connectors for the temp sensors in the exhaust and they both probe out the same. Both have 12V and ground in the same places. We are a bit stuck without knowing theory of operation for the exhaust temp sensors. Can someone either explain how this system works or give us some help on diagnosis. We do not know where the splices run to and from. We also do not know what the sensors are sensing and what they are telling the ECU's.
     
  2. Qavion

    Qavion F1 World Champ
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    And this is for a 348TS with, I believe, a 2.7 engine management system ;)
     
  3. Qavion

    Qavion F1 World Champ
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    Were you backprobing with the engine at high load/rpms? I'm just curious if the problem was due to high temperatures. You say that code P4121 is "catalyzer Temp ECU", but my books say "Catalyzer temperature too high", so that could mean that your actual temperatures were too high and it isn't a failure of the Thermocouple ECU.

    I searched FChat and found this:

    https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/posts/143399017/

    Different symptoms, but code P4121 and Larini exhaust. It was a crank sensor wiring issue. Has something been chewing on your wiring? ;)

    Did you swap MAFs? I think the resistance value is only a signal bias value, not a guarantee that the MAF is functioning properly.
     
  4. Qavion

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  5. windsock

    windsock Formula 3
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    I would focus on some bad grounds or connectors.
     
  6. Qavion

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    ... or a 2.5 with some later model components and wiring.

    For info: The crank sensor shield, MAF and thermocouple ECU share a common earth on the 2.7. On the 2.5, the thermocouple ECU uses another common earth (with brown wire instead of black).
     
  7. Christof

    Christof Karting

    Jun 29, 2014
    185
    Australia
    If you think one of those thermocouples is faulty, they are a 3mm k-type
     
  8. Qavion

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    It shouldn't be a thermocouple...

     
  9. mebozart

    mebozart Rookie

    May 16, 2022
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    Bloomington, Indiana
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    Matt Bozarth
    Thanks for pointing out my car. Its tough to help when you have no idea what vehicle were even talking about. My bad! Rookie mistake.

    With regards to the back probing. We did that at idle and with key on engine off.

    The thermocouple was one of the items that I switched from side to side along with the Exhaust ECU's. No change with either of those. In addition, the weird thing is that with no cats, there cannot really be an issue with it being too hot.

    Ill need to read the thread that you posted. One of the other issues that we are having is a code 1121 (RPM sensor) and the tach doesn't work. If there is some connection there, It would make sense. Hopefully that thread will tell us how to daig that. We are pretty much simply using the wiring schematic since we do not know theory of operation on most of these systems.
     
  10. Qavion

    Qavion F1 World Champ
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    The tach only takes data from the left bank (5~8) crank sensor. i.e. the crank sensor at 9 o'clock (not the one on the bottom). Are you sure you're not getting your banks mixed up?
     
  11. mebozart

    mebozart Rookie

    May 16, 2022
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    Bloomington, Indiana
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    Matt Bozarth
    That’s what I was just researching. The code is for bank 1-4 for sure. Also, the tach doesn’t work. I was honoring for a twofer. Apparently my problems are most likely not related
     
  12. Qavion

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    I'm told that on some cars that the crank sensor code will be present with the engine not running (I can't recall if it was the 355 2.7 or the 348). You may be getting the code because of this. So the tacho fault may be unrelated. The tacho fault may open up another bag of worms. Does your car have mousetrack seatbelts? (no pun intended regarding your possible rodent problem) :D

    This doesn't really give a good picture of what is happening at the top end. Sometimes a faulty sensor only diverges from normal at the top end.
    Can you recall when the cat temperature message reappeared after clearing the codes. Was the car even warmed up?
     

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