ECU tuning on 360 | FerrariChat

ECU tuning on 360

Discussion in '360/430' started by rmani, May 5, 2011.

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  1. rmani

    rmani F1 Veteran
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    What is the difference between doing a stradale ecu vs. a custom ecu tune? Is there any benefit to the stradale chip?
     
  2. DonJuan348

    DonJuan348 F1 Rookie
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    #2 DonJuan348, May 5, 2011
    Last edited: May 5, 2011
    ask trev360 ... also, once you install your exhaust and test pipes then see how you like it. IIRC, you will want a custom tune
     
  3. Piper

    Piper Two Time F1 World Champ
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    A custom ECU tune is made to match your hardware, with or without precats, with or without air rails, etc. Stradale ECU is going to expect OEM specs on the car, one would assume.
     
  4. Driftracer3

    Driftracer3 Formula Junior

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    Correct. The CS ECU also has a little more mild tune compared to an aftermarket tune.
     
  5. anxpert

    anxpert Formula Junior

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    Wouldn't the CS ECU learn the parameters of the particular engine?
     
  6. Piper

    Piper Two Time F1 World Champ
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    To an extent, but it's also responsible for throwing CEL's if it senses something isn't working right. If it thinks you have emissions equipment that you've removed, CEL. Can also cause SLOW DOWN's. I would assume it could also cause an unoptimal air fuel mix if it isn't matched correctly to your hardware, but not sure about that one. Just seems like a possibility.
     
  7. rmani

    rmani F1 Veteran
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    I guess what caused my confusion are two things:

    1. I've read on here that stradale ECUs yield more power with mods than standard custom ECUs

    2. When looking at fabpeeds website they have a standard ECU tune and a stradale tune. The stradale tune is rated as making more hp and costing more.

    I'm just wondering what with yield the most power once I have all the bolts ons completed.

    The place I'm thinking about taking my car offers custom ECU tunes off the dyno. I just want to make sure that's the best option
     
  8. Driftracer3

    Driftracer3 Formula Junior

    Jan 5, 2006
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    The CS is setup a little differently, so stock for stock (with the exception of the ECU) the CS will make more power. Modified the same, the CS will also make more power.

    Unless you have a setup that hasnt been tried before, an off the shelf tune should work just fine. They are generally tried and true, and should be good all around. Many shops offer custom dyno tuning, but can the shop you mentioned really handle the Bosch ECU? Its going to require very specific hardware/software for tuning.
     
  9. rmani

    rmani F1 Veteran
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    He's pretty well versed in tuning, as he's cranked out some 7-800hp gallardos. I think he'll probably be cheaper vs buying an aftermarket chip as well. I am planning to do some before/after dyno runs and will post up the results as well.
     
  10. Gh21631

    Gh21631 F1 Veteran
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    ECU tune without mods is useless, don't waste your money. If you want gains you need to make some other changes; exhaust, headers, cats, intake, then tune. Even with these the gains are minimal but at least you reduce weight and get better sound.

    All you will get is a car optimized for 93 octane and raise rev limiter. You may think you feel more power but you don't get some without giving up somewhere else. Dyno is not the last word, run some times and you will see. The dyno can be made to show whatever the tuner wants.

    There is not a lot left on the table for normally aspirated cars especially all ferraris, porsches, etc.
     
  11. rmani

    rmani F1 Veteran
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    I plan on doing the tune after doing all the bolt on modifications that I can
     
  12. Gh21631

    Gh21631 F1 Veteran
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    What do you have in mind?
     
  13. rmani

    rmani F1 Veteran
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    exhaust, test pipes, some type of intake (preferably gruppe m but it's so damn $$), and headers. Then i plan to have the car tuned. goal is 350whp.

    i'd like to shave 100lbs off the weight if possibly too. preferably 200lbs bit given mu budget i doubt i can do that.
     
  14. Skidkid

    Skidkid F1 Veteran
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    The first 100 isn't too hard but much more than that gets VERY difficult and expensive. 200 may not even be possible without replacing the glass and stripping much of the interior.
     
  15. DonJuan348

    DonJuan348 F1 Rookie
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    Trev 360 is the man who should chime in he has done all the experimentation.
     
  16. Gh21631

    Gh21631 F1 Veteran
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    Battery, exhaust, headers, pipes, wheels then seats
     
  17. Skidkid

    Skidkid F1 Veteran
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    Thats the easy stuff. Most cars have it to some degree and it does not equal 200 lb.
     
  18. Gh21631

    Gh21631 F1 Veteran
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    Yup, then you star pulling carpet, insulation... May as well by a race car.
     
  19. Gh21631

    Gh21631 F1 Veteran
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    Hang tight on the exhaust and pipes, I will have mine done next week and will let you know how it goes. I am not doing headers right though.
     
  20. Ingpr

    Ingpr F1 Rookie

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    1+
     
  21. MC DOUG

    MC DOUG Karting

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    did the full package. fabspeed headers/cats/ecu re-flash with the carbon boxes and tubi I already had. Well worth the effort.. MUCH MORE power in the lower gears(F1) and a very aggressive sound.
     
  22. Ferrari360spider

    Mar 22, 2011
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    Daniël
    I'm expexting my fabspeed carbon bodes and the bmc airfilters. I already have the tubi, so I wonder what it Will give...
     
  23. 360trev

    360trev F1 Rookie
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    :)

    Where do I start? A lot of this has been covered in my 6-speed Stradale thread if you want more info. If your an F1 paddle shift owner I'd ultimately recommend just going for a CS (yes the cost difference is worth the $).

    Perhaps lets start with Engine performance 1st.

    Engine Power
    If the car is a 360 that was originally destined for the US market its essential you sort out the entire exhaust system first. In US emissions spec its quite restrictive so;

    1. Headers/Manifolds with pre-cats (fabspeed, etc.)
    2. Sports cats (fabspeed, kinetix, hyperflow's)
    3. Exhaust Backbox (Optional factory race system, fabspeed, timate, capristo, tubi, etc.)

    This alone will yield healthy gains but of course the tuning on top of this will yield bigger gains once all of the above is done. On US cars the headers and cats yield bigger gains than on Euro cars since the Euro cars don't have header cats at all and their exhaust cats are less restrictive than US ones. There is no point in just lifting the restriction on the exhaust back box if the cats are still strangling power further upstream.

    The above should be done 1st before doing any ecu dyno tuning as otherwise gains will be negligible. Think of an engine like a big air pump, if there are physical restrictions on getting the air & fuel mixture into the engine and then subsequently the spent gasses out quick enough no amount of additional software tweaking will help all that much.

    On the weight front you can junk as much as 400kg's from the road cars BUT that's no longer a road car!!! I have seen some heavily modified 360 Challenge racing cars running full carbon body with a KERB weight of ~950kg's (!!!) Just completely insane and easily quick enough to out drag 430 Challenge's. However this does not make for a comfortable and good road car - quite the opposite and requires you to drive at 10/10's to get the aerodynamic down force and brakes working properly.

    In reality you still need comfort, you still need air con in hot places and so forth. After all the experimentation I've done I'd say the best bang for your $ is;

    Exhaust
    1. Titanium exhaust (7.7kg's vs 31kg's shedding nearly 24kg's out from the back!)
    2. Kinetix cats (saving around 5kg's)
    3. Headers (a few more)
    ~30kg's just from the exhaust system. All easy bolt on/off stuff.

    Battery
    1. Latest lithium iron phosphate technology can see a battery in less than 9kg's thats works ( but needs to be kept on trickle charge - latest ones last around a week off the charger vs 2-3 factory ).
    ~10+ kg's just from the battery.

    Seats
    2. The original seats are big old boat anchors and personally in a car like the 360/430 I think all of them should have been fitted with the carbon optional seats as standard. Anyway they weight a lot (even more the electric daytona ones). Carbon seats can save as much as 30-40kg's depending on how extreme you want to go or pay.
    ~30-40kg's from the seats.

    So just doing the full exhaust, battery and seats will save you almost as much as a CS diet yielded and you'll have similar power.

    So far I haven't covered handling, braking or aero. Like I said before unless you've got very deep pockets and want to go much further than Ferrari did with the CS (DEEP pockets) then don't see this route as a cheap way to get CS level's of enjoyment/performance - it won't happen until you've spent more on your car than buying a CS in the first place...

    It though is a hell of a lot of fun trying....:)
     
    Anthony 360 F1 likes this.

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