ECU tuning on 360

ask trev360 ... also, once you install your exhaust and test pipes then see how you like it. IIRC, you will want a custom tune

 

A custom ECU tune is made to match your hardware, with or without precats, with or without air rails, etc. Stradale ECU is going to expect OEM specs on the car, one would assume.

 

Correct. The CS ECU also has a little more mild tune compared to an aftermarket tune.

 

Wouldn't the CS ECU learn the parameters of the particular engine?

 

To an extent, but it's also responsible for throwing CEL's if it senses something isn't working right. If it thinks you have emissions equipment that you've removed, CEL. Can also cause SLOW DOWN's. I would assume it could also cause an unoptimal air fuel mix if it isn't matched correctly to your hardware, but not sure about that one. Just seems like a possibility.

 

The CS is setup a little differently, so stock for stock (with the exception of the ECU) the CS will make more power. Modified the same, the CS will also make more power.

Unless you have a setup that hasnt been tried before, an off the shelf tune should work just fine. They are generally tried and true, and should be good all around. Many shops offer custom dyno tuning, but can the shop you mentioned really handle the Bosch ECU? Its going to require very specific hardware/software for tuning.

 

ECU tune without mods is useless, don't waste your money. If you want gains you need to make some other changes; exhaust, headers, cats, intake, then tune. Even with these the gains are minimal but at least you reduce weight and get better sound.

All you will get is a car optimized for 93 octane and raise rev limiter. You may think you feel more power but you don't get some without giving up somewhere else. Dyno is not the last word, run some times and you will see. The dyno can be made to show whatever the tuner wants.

There is not a lot left on the table for normally aspirated cars especially all ferraris, porsches, etc.

 

What do you have in mind?

 

The first 100 isn't too hard but much more than that gets VERY difficult and expensive. 200 may not even be possible without replacing the glass and stripping much of the interior.

 

Trev 360 is the man who should chime in he has done all the experimentation.

 

Battery, exhaust, headers, pipes, wheels then seats

 

Thats the easy stuff. Most cars have it to some degree and it does not equal 200 lb.

 

Yup, then you star pulling carpet, insulation... May as well by a race car.

 

Hang tight on the exhaust and pipes, I will have mine done next week and will let you know how it goes. I am not doing headers right though.

 

1+

 

did the full package. fabspeed headers/cats/ecu re-flash with the carbon boxes and tubi I already had. Well worth the effort.. MUCH MORE power in the lower gears(F1) and a very aggressive sound.

 

I'm expexting my fabspeed carbon bodes and the bmc airfilters. I already have the tubi, so I wonder what it Will give...

 

Where do I start? A lot of this has been covered in my 6-speed Stradale thread if you want more info. If your an F1 paddle shift owner I'd ultimately recommend just going for a CS (yes the cost difference is worth the $).

Perhaps lets start with Engine performance 1st.

Engine Power
If the car is a 360 that was originally destined for the US market its essential you sort out the entire exhaust system first. In US emissions spec its quite restrictive so;

1. Headers/Manifolds with pre-cats (fabspeed, etc.)
2. Sports cats (fabspeed, kinetix, hyperflow's)
3. Exhaust Backbox (Optional factory race system, fabspeed, timate, capristo, tubi, etc.)

This alone will yield healthy gains but of course the tuning on top of this will yield bigger gains once all of the above is done. On US cars the headers and cats yield bigger gains than on Euro cars since the Euro cars don't have header cats at all and their exhaust cats are less restrictive than US ones. There is no point in just lifting the restriction on the exhaust back box if the cats are still strangling power further upstream.

The above should be done 1st before doing any ecu dyno tuning as otherwise gains will be negligible. Think of an engine like a big air pump, if there are physical restrictions on getting the air & fuel mixture into the engine and then subsequently the spent gasses out quick enough no amount of additional software tweaking will help all that much.

On the weight front you can junk as much as 400kg's from the road cars BUT that's no longer a road car!!! I have seen some heavily modified 360 Challenge racing cars running full carbon body with a KERB weight of ~950kg's (!!!) Just completely insane and easily quick enough to out drag 430 Challenge's. However this does not make for a comfortable and good road car - quite the opposite and requires you to drive at 10/10's to get the aerodynamic down force and brakes working properly.

In reality you still need comfort, you still need air con in hot places and so forth. After all the experimentation I've done I'd say the best bang for your $ is;

Exhaust
1. Titanium exhaust (7.7kg's vs 31kg's shedding nearly 24kg's out from the back!)
2. Kinetix cats (saving around 5kg's)
3. Headers (a few more)
~30kg's just from the exhaust system. All easy bolt on/off stuff.

Battery
1. Latest lithium iron phosphate technology can see a battery in less than 9kg's thats works ( but needs to be kept on trickle charge - latest ones last around a week off the charger vs 2-3 factory ).
~10+ kg's just from the battery.

Seats
2. The original seats are big old boat anchors and personally in a car like the 360/430 I think all of them should have been fitted with the carbon optional seats as standard. Anyway they weight a lot (even more the electric daytona ones). Carbon seats can save as much as 30-40kg's depending on how extreme you want to go or pay.
~30-40kg's from the seats.

So just doing the full exhaust, battery and seats will save you almost as much as a CS diet yielded and you'll have similar power.

So far I haven't covered handling, braking or aero. Like I said before unless you've got very deep pockets and want to go much further than Ferrari did with the CS (DEEP pockets) then don't see this route as a cheap way to get CS level's of enjoyment/performance - it won't happen until you've spent more on your car than buying a CS in the first place...

It though is a hell of a lot of fun trying....