Electronic Ignition 246

Interesting and looks a bargain compared to the BSM system which appears to be no longer available at the moment.

 

This is a dutch 123 ignition build into a cut up S125 distributor. The igniton output is similar to a points ignition, which is not sufficient for running a Dino V6 engine. (interestingly, 123 itself advises against using their ignition for a Dino engine). The two conversions i have seen had failed due to unremoved metal chips from the milling entering the electronics board. Not recommended :/

 

Are you talking about an electronic trigger for the coil (which replaces the points) or something more extensive?

If the former, I installed an Allison optical system in my car 25 yrs ago and it is still going strong. Today there are probably better solutions that are still very affordable.

 

I installed Crane Cams XR 700 (trigger, coil, control unit) in my Dino back in 2002. Optical trigger, no more points or condenser. Has been terrific. Not one issue with it. Engine starts every time even when heat soaked. Not expensive, but the labor to install it was a few hundred. They now have a newer version.
Be aware that many conversions (like this one) will change the ignition from a CD (Dinoplex) to an inductive system, which is not at all a bad thing. In fact the engine seems to do better with the inductive ignition than with the Dinoplex CD ignition.

 

I am 99% sure that is the same thing I installed-- Crane bought Allison at some point or the parent company just changed the name

I installed it myself and it was not difficult because the dizzy is so accessible thru the inner fender.

 

Depends on what your preferences/requirements are. Here is an overview for a start:
http://www.dinoplex.org/overview_dino_ignitions.pdf

 

Simplest installation would be an MSD 6A #6201 and a Blaster II coil setup, which (technically) is a successor of the Dinoplex ignition.

Regarding the static timing, i usually just reinstall the dist, start the engine and then set the static advance via a timing light (wired to cyl #3) to 10°.
If the engine won't properly idle after reinstalling the dist, gently move the dist body CW (advance) or CCW (retard) until the engine keeps running, then use the timing light for setting the timing to exactly 10°.

good luck,
Adrian

 

Simply wire the MSD's white wire (Points) to the distributor terminal marked R1. You can ignore the terminal marked R2, that was just used for the ignition retardation in the emission control setup.

Here is the wiring diagram:
http://www.dinoplex.org/PDF/MSD_6A_Dino_Wiring_Diagram.pdf

 

I don't know why people buy MSD boxes-- they stop doing multiple discharges at about 4,000, no? So what good is that on a Dino?

The guys on the Pantera forum recommend you keep a spare in the car because they have a pretty high failure rate.

 

The factory fitted Dinoplex CDIs had no multiple discharge feature at all and the Dino engine runs quite well with these, so nothing really to worry about Multiple discharges are effective in cold starts but do not really make a big difference in driving from my experience.

The broken MSDs i got in for repair had failed due to vibration (installations without the rubber mounts) and/or components overheating, and all of these had been installed in the engine compartment. With the Ferrari 206/246 an MSD has a comfortable life in the luggage compartment, so considerably less stress and a longer service life.

If you wire up the MSD in the same manner as the factory Dinoplex setup, you could always change the connector for the Emergenza mode in case of an ignition failure and still be able to drive home:
http://www.dinoplex.org/PDF/Ferrari%20Dino%20246%20Wiring,%20'70%20Europe,%20two%20terminal%20connector.pdf

Best,
Adrian