emissions testing

I posted this in the NY section but thought someonehere may be able to help me. This is what happened when I took my 355 to a CT emissions testing center:

I took my 355 in for an emissions test today and it failed. The guy testing it said that I must drive the car for 50 to 100 miles before I get it tested because their computer wasn't calibrating. The form says "test failed due to excessive OBD monitors not ready, return after the vehicle has been driven in accordance with the manufacturer drive cycle." I just had a major done 2 weeks ago and had a Stage 3 X-Ost installed. This never happened to my 328 before. Any ideas?

 

The 328 does not have a real "ECU" (only a M&M DigiPlex box) and no On-Board Diagnostic (OBD) port for the test facility to hook-up to because of the model year. I am NO expert or a EE, but the new generation emission testers read all the parameters of your ECU(s) through your OBD port. Each state has different testing criteria, but obviously in CT, they require that the vehicle is fully "warmed-up" (e.g., oxygen sensors, thermocouples, etc.) and has been driven X amount of miles from the last shut-down. You don't necessarily have a mechanical problem, it's just that your not meeting their pre-testing criteria. Just follow their guide-lines, drive the car the required distance, and take the test. You probably will have no trouble then. If you do, it's usually some pretty simple fix. Good luck!

 

Replied in the NY section too, but for those reading here it's a combo of miles driven and cold starts. I had a CEL reset with a failed air pump....I drove it 50+ miles and didn't get a CEL because it took multiple cold starts to confirm the air pump failure to the ECU.

 

The obd II records drive cycles. If you're battery has been disconnected then the computer can forget all errors logged. To prevent people from disconnecting the battery to remove a check engine light (CEL), the car has to go through a number of drive cycles (where a new code, and CEL would be triggered during this period from any malfunctioning emissions equipment). Driving cycles are set by requiring the coolant to reach a certain temp, a certain drive duration, minimum criteria on maximum speed (i.e. must at least drive XX mph) etc.... A car cannot have a CEL and get an emission testing certificate. So, you simply need to drive your car and log a few driving cycles prior to taking an emission test.

 

You can go to an auto parts store and get an OBD2 reader. Connect it to the plug under your dash and you will see which tests have completed and which have not. You will also see if you have any failing codes pending. If you do have an issue, the CEL will not light up until all of the tests have completed. Also, make sure your car has the updated connector for the OBD2 reader. See the document obd2.pdf attached.

You can see my thread at http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=201140 which shows some of my experiences with various OBD2 readers. Once all the tests have completed and you show no failing codes, you can get the car smogged.
View attachment obd2.pdf

 

I am bringing the car in to the shop on Tuesday to look for a rattle near the exhaust at idle. At 1,500 rmp the rattle is gone which makes me think that a heat shield may be loose or lost a weld and not the exhaust valve. I will also have them check everything then. I appreciate all of the help though. I have managed to put 75 miles on the car since the first test and am going back out for another hour or so. These are the type of repairs I like Is there any information on how many starts and how many miles are required?