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Enclosed Trailer Recommendations?

Discussion in 'Boxers/TR/M' started by vincenzo, Nov 5, 2020.

  1. vincenzo

    vincenzo F1 Rookie

    Nov 2, 2003
    2,873
    Currently looking at a 20’ version of this 4926 Featherlite trailer:
    https://www.fthr.com/products/car-trailers/bumper-pull/4926-car-trailer

    The Testarossa width is nearly 78” and the trailer interior is 81”.... tight!

    Planning to add a winch, but still expect loading/unloading to be a pain.

    Anybody have any general experience or recommendations? Any issues with cg that might force me into a longer trailer?

    Any feedback is welcome!


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  3. EZORED

    EZORED Formula Junior
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    Nov 24, 2007
    649
    Scottsdale, AZ
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    Dennis
    Drive the car! LOL
     
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  4. kartboy1234

    kartboy1234 Formula Junior

    Nov 10, 2014
    490
    Palos Verdes, CA
    Full Name:
    Michael L
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  5. vincenzo

    vincenzo F1 Rookie

    Nov 2, 2003
    2,873
    Drive the car into a Wyoming winter ? Nope....


    Michael - thanks for the pics. Really, really scary!

    Yes, planning to add a winch.

    Also thinking of mounting 2x4 boards to the floor to ensure the car is precisely centered. The dealer can add flanges to the inner fenders and make them removable... might (?) be helpful.
     
  6. kartboy1234

    kartboy1234 Formula Junior

    Nov 10, 2014
    490
    Palos Verdes, CA
    Full Name:
    Michael L
    Yea the wheel covers get very close. It's easy to drive in and center, just line it up then winch it in. Then really tie it down. We installed E track on the walls and floor to help tie down cargo. It's a good trailer, but the Testarossa is a decent sized car.

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  8. c4b4the04

    c4b4the04 Karting
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    Jun 9, 2017
    241
    Northern Virginia
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    Cassidy
    I used a coupon and got a huge Harbor Freight winch for my ATC 20' aluminum trailer. The race car can be driven into it as I have no windows and I just pop out. The TR has to be winched into it, as you can see in the pics above...all TR's in trailers I have seen look just like that. I secured the winch via some steel angle iron under the trailer. You cannot winch just using the plywood floor or a single aluminum cross bar, you have to tie into two. That way you don't lose your car AND wreck your trailer. The TR is just a big gal, and most trailer wheel wells are a standard width across. They do make trailers with escape doors AND removable inner fenders but you're adding 50% to the price of the trailer.

    For what it's worth, I've owned many trailers in my motorsports experience. I absolutely love ATC, Aluminum Trailer Company and have never had one iota of trouble with them. Featherlite is a regular at the track, and I know others love them. If you have time on your side, find used and save half. Trailers depreciate like lead balloons. I bought a 32' work and play, 20' garage with a 12' living quarters and when I sold it 4 years later got close to half of what I paid...nature of the business.

    Upgrade to the wireless remote control for the winch too, that way you can be nearby the car instead of up front. It's like 40 bucks more.

    Cassidy
     
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  9. vincenzo

    vincenzo F1 Rookie

    Nov 2, 2003
    2,873
    As you back the car out by way of gravity and the winch.... how does ‘reverse’ work on these winches? Does the spool freewheel backwards? Is it a brake in reverse? Clutch?

    Good idea on the wireless remote. Any recommended brands? I don’t see one on the Smittybilt site....
     
  10. DonB

    DonB Formula Junior
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    Nov 11, 2003
    439
    Florida
    Full Name:
    Don Bartz
    Look at a Trailex. I have one for my BBi and love it. I've put 26,000 miles on it and it's never given me any problems. I've trailered coast to coast twice (you can't fix stupid!), on I-10!

    The best thing is, it's got really long ramps so no nose drag problems. And, with the side door on the left and the low profile fenders in the interior, I simply drive my car in, place it against the adjustable front wheel stops, open the door and get out. No need for a winch or any of that BS. My 308 sits even lower than the Boxer and even it's doors don't hit the side door ledge.

    Total weight of the trailer is only 2000 lbs, and it's low profile top, and wedge shape means you don't have a big box plowing through the air, and it can fit in a normal height garage.

    Featherlite is an excellent brand but they're not built specifically for sports cars and aren't really user friendly. If you have any specific questions, please feel free to contact me.

    Regardless of what you purchase, I strongly suggest the following. DON'T USE CHINESE MADE TIRES! AND PUT LOAD RANGE "D" ON YOUR TRAILER. Good year makes these as I have a set on my Trailex.

    Good luck and happy trailering.
     
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  11. vincenzo

    vincenzo F1 Rookie

    Nov 2, 2003
    2,873
    Thanks Don.

    Lots of choices out there but delivery times are an issue. Would have liked a Jimglo trailer, but the delivery was 4+ months. Really nice trailers.

    I pulled the trigger on a 20’ Featherlite yesterday. Bigger axles/tires as an option. Not my first choice, but immediately available.

    The Featherlite optional tires came with load range E... but I think they are Chinese. Likely I’ll change them out for Michelin at an early opportunity. The higher load range tires cost very little additional money - money well spent.

    Check out Jimglo. Really nice design, low, insulated, removable fenders/side etc:

     
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  13. 87testa

    87testa Karting
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    Dec 24, 2006
    244
    Toronto, Ontario
    Think about installing a rail ryder system in your trailer. It would help with the wide testarossa

    https://railryder.com/
     
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  14. kartboy1234

    kartboy1234 Formula Junior

    Nov 10, 2014
    490
    Palos Verdes, CA
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    Michael L
    What are you towing the trailer with?

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  15. vincenzo

    vincenzo F1 Rookie

    Nov 2, 2003
    2,873
    #12 vincenzo, Nov 9, 2020
    Last edited: Nov 9, 2020
    Tow vehicle:
    3/4 ton long wheelbase pickup with weight distribution hitch and aftermarket airbags - rated at 10k tow, 1k ball weight

    assuming:
    3.5kip for the Testarossa and 12.5% on the tongue, that is 440lb of tongue weight.
    at 3kip for the trailer the tongue weight likely adds another 375lb

    total tongue at 815lb
    total tow weight 6.5kip

    well within OEM ratings

    Rail Ryder:
    Looks like a great idea, but no doubt expensive. My intent is to secure a set of 4x4 or 2x4 to the floor by way of rivnuts to laterally guide the car into position as it is winched into the trailer. Winch it in with the steering column unlocked and the boards slowly tapered to guide the car into exact position.

    In addition, the wheels will be similarly chocked in their final position both laterally and longitudinally.
     
  16. c4b4the04

    c4b4the04 Karting
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    Jun 9, 2017
    241
    Northern Virginia
    Full Name:
    Cassidy

    The winch I have has a power release as well. You stand back and just push the button. Very simple. I had a smaller version of this big winch on my open trailer...had to haul a 458 Spider up with seized rear parking brakes... wasn't pretty but the winch did the job. This big thing would pull the car up if it had squares for tires! Any brand one will do, as you're using a tenth of its power and no exposure to the elements. Get better tires with the money, and I always carry two spare rims and tires. Had a blowout on a long haul once and had to wait overnight in a parking lot to get another spare...never again and I chuck tires at 5 years old (Motorhome tires at 10).

    Mine winch cable is the steel braided cable for now but eventually will go fabric. I always throw a towel over the cable as I am towing in or out...you'd be amazed how much energy a bath towel can absorb, were something to happen to the winch.
     
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  17. kartboy1234

    kartboy1234 Formula Junior

    Nov 10, 2014
    490
    Palos Verdes, CA
    Full Name:
    Michael L
    Yea you won't have any problem towing it. The trailer is my dad's and he wanted to tow it with his 1500 suburban, but I noticed it required a load leveling hitch, so we were able to get that in after having a sketchy experience towing it locally.

    Towing an E type jag up steep hills around walnut creek slowed the car to 4 mph up a hill. So he's now looking at the new diesel suburbans.

    Had my TR been in it, the trailer would have stopped.

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  18. bob86846

    bob86846 Rookie

    Sep 28, 2009
    4
    Woodstock Ontario CA
    Full Name:
    Bob McLeod
    HI Vincenzo, just spotted your post. It is good to chat with another TR + trailer guy.
    I have TR 86846, did trailer engineering prior to retirement and have my own design enclosed trailer.
    In addition to many of the items above, here are some points that I consider important and some that are nice.
    • Make the trailer versatile. You will get requests to move other cars, move the kids to/from university and move oversized items.
    • Inner fender fender spacing must be at least 80" for the TR . At 80" I have driven mine in and out numerous times with a spotter watching and done the 'dukes of Hazzard' thing climbing out the window onto the trailer inner fender.
    • Lateral motion of the car must be near zero. Good ratchet straps in an X arrangement front and back will control this motion.
    • A winch is essential. Wireless remote control is best. I use a 3500 lb. It pays out cable under power or can be free spooled.
    • Watch the approach angle of the car on the ramp-door. I needed ramp extensions to make a shallow slope to ensure the chin spoiler did not scrub.
    • LED lights are a must for reliability and current draw. Interior lights are handy for loading and tying down at night.
    • 5 bolt hubs at 3500 lb per axle are usually not enough for the trailer empty weight + car + tool boxes etc. You may get weighed out at the scales.
    Here are some things that are nice (what I put on mine)
    • Side wall construction: .030 aluminum, posts on 16" centers, adhesive bonded construction - no rivets, nice for polishing and graphics.
    • 5200 lb Dexter Torflex axles, 8 bolt hubs, 12" brakes
    • Wheels - Alcoa forged aluminum 16" x 6" 8 bolt.
    • Tires - 215/85R16 LRE Goodyear G159. A 'line haul' spec steel cord-steel belt. (May no longer be available.) I don't carry a spare.
    • Ramp-door - all aluminum construction, 3/16" checkerplate surface is strong and non-slip.
    • Stainless steel hardware - hinges, bolts, nuts, rivets, door checks.
    • Floor - 1" plywood w/ longitudinal reinforcement under the wheel tracks, black and white checkerboard tiles.
    Best regards and good luck with your trailer purchase / Bob
     
  19. vincenzo

    vincenzo F1 Rookie

    Nov 2, 2003
    2,873
    Thanks Bob,
    Just purchased a featherlite. The jimglo was much nicer - but 4month delivery. The featherlite was in stock.

    About the only option was a winch and bigger axles.... 8-lug, not sure the brake size, but presumably they are commensurate.

    Likely will add e-track on walls and floor. Planning to cinch the tires down with e-track in addition to the OEM D-rings/cross bracing. They won’t take much load, but as an x-brace supplement they should add redundancy..


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  20. turbo-joe

    turbo-joe F1 Veteran

    Apr 6, 2008
    6,599
    southwest germany
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    romano schwabel
    can not see the video here in germany.
    it says the video is blocked by the owner
     
  21. vincenzo

    vincenzo F1 Rookie

    Nov 2, 2003
    2,873
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  22. turbo-joe

    turbo-joe F1 Veteran

    Apr 6, 2008
    6,599
    southwest germany
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    romano schwabel
    #20 turbo-joe, Nov 13, 2020
    Last edited: Nov 13, 2020
    thank you vincenzo :)
    had a look at the video and I not like the steel bars higher than the floor to fix the wheels. not good for the tires. better would be to lower those bars to be even with the wooden floor
     
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  23. 1RedHead

    1RedHead Rookie

    Sep 2, 2019
    36
    Mexico City / NC USA
    Full Name:
    Chris M
    You may want to look into Airline Track over the E-Track. We had it optioned on an InTech trailer and makes everything so much easier. Mac's Tiedowns are a great compliment whichever way you end up going.




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  24. vincenzo

    vincenzo F1 Rookie

    Nov 2, 2003
    2,873
    Airline track has advantages... but for attaching to a wall with vertical ribs, the etrack offers more mounting points and presumably more strength.

    The 2ea, 1/4” self tapping screws every 16” offers very little mounting strength. Half that many with airline track would make a bad situation worse.

    Nice trailer!
     
  25. kartboy1234

    kartboy1234 Formula Junior

    Nov 10, 2014
    490
    Palos Verdes, CA
    Full Name:
    Michael L
    We added etrack along the floor, bolted through to metal plates that clamp onto the frame. The walls we drilled and rivnutted and screwed the track in. Super strong stuff

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  26. vincenzo

    vincenzo F1 Rookie

    Nov 2, 2003
    2,873
    Hmmmm.... perhaps placing airline track vertically screwed into the ribs in many places would be stronger than etrack mounted horizontally and only screwed in with two screws every 16”?

    Fewer places to mount an attachment... but likely more securely mounted. The attachment with just a few self tapping screws is the weakest issue with etrack.

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