Enclosed Trailer Recommendations?

Drive the car! LOL

 

It's a tight fit. This is the 20 foot featherlite. It fits but you have to climb out of the window or slowly winch it in. Better make sure it doesn't role. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login

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Yea the wheel covers get very close. It's easy to drive in and center, just line it up then winch it in. Then really tie it down. We installed E track on the walls and floor to help tie down cargo. It's a good trailer, but the Testarossa is a decent sized car.

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I used a coupon and got a huge Harbor Freight winch for my ATC 20' aluminum trailer. The race car can be driven into it as I have no windows and I just pop out. The TR has to be winched into it, as you can see in the pics above...all TR's in trailers I have seen look just like that. I secured the winch via some steel angle iron under the trailer. You cannot winch just using the plywood floor or a single aluminum cross bar, you have to tie into two. That way you don't lose your car AND wreck your trailer. The TR is just a big gal, and most trailer wheel wells are a standard width across. They do make trailers with escape doors AND removable inner fenders but you're adding 50% to the price of the trailer.

For what it's worth, I've owned many trailers in my motorsports experience. I absolutely love ATC, Aluminum Trailer Company and have never had one iota of trouble with them. Featherlite is a regular at the track, and I know others love them. If you have time on your side, find used and save half. Trailers depreciate like lead balloons. I bought a 32' work and play, 20' garage with a 12' living quarters and when I sold it 4 years later got close to half of what I paid...nature of the business.

Upgrade to the wireless remote control for the winch too, that way you can be nearby the car instead of up front. It's like 40 bucks more.

Cassidy

 

Look at a Trailex. I have one for my BBi and love it. I've put 26,000 miles on it and it's never given me any problems. I've trailered coast to coast twice (you can't fix stupid!), on I-10!

The best thing is, it's got really long ramps so no nose drag problems. And, with the side door on the left and the low profile fenders in the interior, I simply drive my car in, place it against the adjustable front wheel stops, open the door and get out. No need for a winch or any of that BS. My 308 sits even lower than the Boxer and even it's doors don't hit the side door ledge.

Total weight of the trailer is only 2000 lbs, and it's low profile top, and wedge shape means you don't have a big box plowing through the air, and it can fit in a normal height garage.

Featherlite is an excellent brand but they're not built specifically for sports cars and aren't really user friendly. If you have any specific questions, please feel free to contact me.

Regardless of what you purchase, I strongly suggest the following. DON'T USE CHINESE MADE TIRES! AND PUT LOAD RANGE "D" ON YOUR TRAILER. Good year makes these as I have a set on my Trailex.

Good luck and happy trailering.

 

Think about installing a rail ryder system in your trailer. It would help with the wide testarossa

https://railryder.com/

 

What are you towing the trailer with?

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The winch I have has a power release as well. You stand back and just push the button. Very simple. I had a smaller version of this big winch on my open trailer...had to haul a 458 Spider up with seized rear parking brakes... wasn't pretty but the winch did the job. This big thing would pull the car up if it had squares for tires! Any brand one will do, as you're using a tenth of its power and no exposure to the elements. Get better tires with the money, and I always carry two spare rims and tires. Had a blowout on a long haul once and had to wait overnight in a parking lot to get another spare...never again and I chuck tires at 5 years old (Motorhome tires at 10).

Mine winch cable is the steel braided cable for now but eventually will go fabric. I always throw a towel over the cable as I am towing in or out...you'd be amazed how much energy a bath towel can absorb, were something to happen to the winch.

 

Yea you won't have any problem towing it. The trailer is my dad's and he wanted to tow it with his 1500 suburban, but I noticed it required a load leveling hitch, so we were able to get that in after having a sketchy experience towing it locally.

Towing an E type jag up steep hills around walnut creek slowed the car to 4 mph up a hill. So he's now looking at the new diesel suburbans.

Had my TR been in it, the trailer would have stopped.

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HI Vincenzo, just spotted your post. It is good to chat with another TR + trailer guy.
I have TR 86846, did trailer engineering prior to retirement and have my own design enclosed trailer.
In addition to many of the items above, here are some points that I consider important and some that are nice.

• Make the trailer versatile. You will get requests to move other cars, move the kids to/from university and move oversized items.
• Inner fender fender spacing must be at least 80" for the TR . At 80" I have driven mine in and out numerous times with a spotter watching and done the 'dukes of Hazzard' thing climbing out the window onto the trailer inner fender.
• Lateral motion of the car must be near zero. Good ratchet straps in an X arrangement front and back will control this motion.
• A winch is essential. Wireless remote control is best. I use a 3500 lb. It pays out cable under power or can be free spooled.
• Watch the approach angle of the car on the ramp-door. I needed ramp extensions to make a shallow slope to ensure the chin spoiler did not scrub.
• LED lights are a must for reliability and current draw. Interior lights are handy for loading and tying down at night.
• 5 bolt hubs at 3500 lb per axle are usually not enough for the trailer empty weight + car + tool boxes etc. You may get weighed out at the scales.

Here are some things that are nice (what I put on mine)

• Side wall construction: .030 aluminum, posts on 16" centers, adhesive bonded construction - no rivets, nice for polishing and graphics.
• 5200 lb Dexter Torflex axles, 8 bolt hubs, 12" brakes
• Wheels - Alcoa forged aluminum 16" x 6" 8 bolt.
• Tires - 215/85R16 LRE Goodyear G159. A 'line haul' spec steel cord-steel belt. (May no longer be available.) I don't carry a spare.
• Ramp-door - all aluminum construction, 3/16" checkerplate surface is strong and non-slip.
• Stainless steel hardware - hinges, bolts, nuts, rivets, door checks.
• Floor - 1" plywood w/ longitudinal reinforcement under the wheel tracks, black and white checkerboard tiles.

Best regards and good luck with your trailer purchase / Bob

 

can not see the video here in germany.
it says the video is blocked by the owner

 

thank you vincenzo
had a look at the video and I not like the steel bars higher than the floor to fix the wheels. not good for the tires. better would be to lower those bars to be even with the wooden floor

 

You may want to look into Airline Track over the E-Track. We had it optioned on an InTech trailer and makes everything so much easier. Mac's Tiedowns are a great compliment whichever way you end up going.




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We added etrack along the floor, bolted through to metal plates that clamp onto the frame. The walls we drilled and rivnutted and screwed the track in. Super strong stuff

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