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Engine Break-in Oil question

Discussion in '206/246' started by utah4re, Jun 22, 2010.

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  1. utah4re

    utah4re Karting

    Nov 1, 2005
    52
    #1 utah4re, Jun 22, 2010
    In a couple of weeks I will be starting my engine after a complete rebuild, new pistons, valves, inserts, bearings, etc. I am not sure what oil viscosity I should use for the initial start up. I read Dr. Haas motor oil chapters and think maybe I should use a 5W-30 instead of a 30 weight non-detergent. I had all the engine bearing coated with dry film Molybdenum Disulfide. Is there a way to prime the oil pump on these engines.
     
  2. Ferraripilot

    Ferraripilot F1 World Champ
    Owner Project Master

    May 10, 2006
    17,846
    Atlanta
    Full Name:
    John!
    #2 Ferraripilot, Jun 22, 2010
    I am about to fire my engine (308 carb) for the first time tomorrow. I thought about using a non-detergent but shy away from it because it is good for seating rings but not so good for everything else. Going with 10w-40 Castrol non-synthetic for break-in.

    To my knowledge, there is no real way to prime the oil pump, but you can pour oil directly into the main oil galley to the oil pump by pouring oil directly into the center hole on the oil filter housing. Not sure if this work for Dinos though. With the moly on the bearings you will be fine for a little while anyway. That stuff take some time to come off.
     
  3. michael bayer

    michael bayer Formula 3

    Aug 4, 2004
    1,292
    #3 michael bayer, Jun 22, 2010
    For what its worth in other makes I would always spin an engine without ignition (plugs in or out depending until the oil circuit was "charged", then start it.
     
  4. dino clay

    dino clay Karting

    Oct 31, 2007
    185
    san mateo, cal
    Full Name:
    clay cavanaugh
    #4 dino clay, Jun 22, 2010
    forget using the starter w/out plugs. I professionally built engines for over 4o years and this method will put over 10,000 miles on your moving parts..Borrow an oil pig which pumps oil into your system w/air pressure. As to oil types. any non detergent non synthetic oil. Make sure it has zink phosphate, this is only available in racing only oils but will be the best for flat tappet or shim adjustment tappets which you have. Zinc damages catilytics so won't be found in almost all modern oils.
    good luck
     
  5. jselevan

    jselevan Formula 3

    Nov 2, 2003
    1,873
    #5 jselevan, Jun 22, 2010
    Clay - Your experience with this issue is greatly appreciated. Could you explain in a bit more detail how and why spinning a freshly built engine without plugs to prime the oil pump is detrimental?
     
  6. racerboy9

    racerboy9 F1 Rookie
    Silver Subscribed

    Nov 3, 2003
    2,642
    #6 racerboy9, Jun 22, 2010
    I took the two lines going to the oil cooler loose and poured oil down them. Reconnected and spun the engine over with plugs out, no fuel and carbs open. Oil pressure on my mechanical gauge came up very quickly.
     
  7. michael bayer

    michael bayer Formula 3

    Aug 4, 2004
    1,292
    #7 michael bayer, Jun 22, 2010
    Good news!
    To a few an earlier post- my plugs out spin up was premised on: "I had all the engine bearings coated with dry film Molybdenum Disulfide." I would appreciate how that suggestion might generate 10,000 miles of wear before the ignition was engaged? Particularly since I do this routinely when I change oil. M
     

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