I had my old Engine oil replaced, it was black and guey I was told. New oil added, now I have oil leaking I think from the crank casing. I only drive the car in decent weather April to October so don’t have to worry about very cold starts at any time, cars kept in a heated garage. Any recommendations of a thicker oil that hopefully won’t leak out yet still lube the engine well. Thanks Sent from my iPhone using FerrariChat
The range thickness of fresh oil acceptable to the car ("thickest" vs "thinnest") will not stop oil leakage. Either you live with it (and buy an oil drip tray for your garage floor) or have the leaking gasket replaced. Fresh oil will sometimes wash the crud off of the gasket edges which had been blocking the leakage but, if crud was blocking flow there, it may also have been blocking in other places in undesirable ways. Originally synthetic oils were more prone to causing leaks but that was quickly resolved 30 years ago with new formulations. But they are still very good at washing off crud!
Well...the proper advice would be: fix the leak! for temporary use: A straight weight oil rather than a multi weight would provide "thicker" oil when sitting in the garage. IOW, if the manual states 10W40, you could use a straight 40. Also, synthetic oil will find poor seals/gaskets easier than conventional oil so that's an option as well. But fixing the leak, using the recommended type/viscosity oil would be better!
Thanks for your reply’s I’ll have the leak tray under the engine for now. So it’s an engine out job for the gaskets I presume? I’ll have it done when the big service is due but will try 40W to see if that does stop the leak.
It won't make any difference. Straight 40 weight and multi-grade with 40 as the upper number flow the same at running temperature. But even if you put in 60 weight it's not going to stop leaking, and any reduction will hardly be noticeable.
Quite right re leaking with the engine at operating temp - they flow the same. But sitting in the garage at ambient temp, straight 40 would leak slower than multi weight. IOW, if it's going to sit in the garage for a week, there would be less oil on the floor with straight 40!
The prime suspect (oil pan gasket) does not require the engine to be removed. Likewise, there are other places from which oil can leak (e.g. shifter shaft seal) that can be rectified without removing the engine.
Try a high mileage oil type ( mobil 1 high mileage ) with weight you supposed to use .. these oils have an additive to swell gaskets Other than that replace gaskets
How bad is the leak? If it's not in a critical location and is not significant, you might not need to worry about it -- just use a drip tray. I have seen several leaks over the years that are truly of no concern. You just need to make an educated diagnosis.
A good 'training ground' re whether oil leaks are important or not is owning vintage British motorcycles...."If it's not leaking, it's out of oil!"
What year is your car?? My Engine Plate calls for 10-50W, and ignore that at your own peril. (Nothing bad really but oil pressure drops noticably with lighter weights) In the summer I just use the plentiful 20-50W, in winter or colder climates I would go with a 5 -50W or even a 0- 50W, both available now. But this is in a 1976 -77. Later engines are different.
Use Valvoline 20 / 50 racing with Zinc, mineral oil, its the best oil for the 3x8s. I have 105,000 miles on my car, and I have never used synthetic oil in it .Im not sure about your leaks, but I answered your question about what oil you should be using, its that simple. Big G
These cars are not designed to be driven in cold weather, its that simple, the motors love to run when the oil temp is at 270 degrees F , and at that temp, the motor needs and wants 20/ 50 weight oil. My car lives in So Cal, so it easy for me to run it all year long, but the hotter is is outside, the better my car runs, and I have been driving the **** out of it for 23 years and 85,000 miles, with the same oil , changed every 3000 miles. The proof is in the pudding. Big G
