Hi All, I'm about to do an engine out belt service. The last time it was done it was just the belts, tensioners, fluids and filters. I'm planning on doing all the belts, tensioners and fluids etc again. I have no noticeable leaks or seepage but I'm thinking I might as well do the water pump seals too. It has all new fuel pumps, accumulators, fuel pressure regulators and new fuel lines. I've noticed a small seepage from one of the drive shalf outputs on the gearbox. The gear box was flushed and serviced at 17,000kms around 4 years ago. But I'll change these too. Does anyone have any other recommendations for what I should also do? The car has only 19,000kms on it but still want to make sure I don't have to take the engine out again over the next 5 years. Thanks.
I would change all seal rings ( crankshaft, camshafts, all what is rubber ) and the use silicone water and oil hoses. when you replace the water pump sealing test before you install the engine if is it leaking or not what please is a seepage? what is a drive shalf? sure yes: drive the car it is made for driving, not for servicing
Thanks Joe, the last part made me laugh. And yes I do plan to use it more moving forward. I have too many cars and this one is at the back of the garage hence why it's been a bit neglected. The drive shaft or half shaft as you might know it as. The shaft from the diff to the wheel hub. Seepage is a slow or little leak.
Replace the vent hoses on the fuel tank at the firewall. Mine were so brittle, they were a fire hazard. I usually swap out the thermostats, as it is very difficult to do with the engine in the car. If original, consider replacing the o-rings around the injectors, and getting the injectors checked and perhaps cleaned. I always change the large diameter fuel hose connecting the tanks as well. If there is no dribble of coolant from the bleed hole, I leave the water pump alone, as there are so many variations of the seal and spacers, I usually order them 2 or three times (and there is no guarantee the new one will not leak). If you are splitting the engine from the transmission (differential), replace the idler and chain which drive the oil pump. I found a loose link in the sump. Go figure. Everyone has an opinion, but running Evans NPG in place of water based coolant over the years made it easy to remove the heads (no corrosion). I would not have had to remove them, except for a bad radiator fan connection at the fuse box and too long stuck in traffic. Replace the O-ring seal around the shifter shaft (mine was leaking). You will have to open the side of the gearbox to do this.I actually used two seals - the Superformance replacement (with a lip) and the OEM O ring - no more leaks.
sure I know, but you have written shalf, and that was why I asked could not find a sensible translation. it says for example that a fluid goes slowly into the soil. and this makes no sense so I also do
I would put in new fans to lower the amperage in the fuse box back to normal and replace the injectors with the brass version as the (old and NLA) steel version is prone to corrosion with the hydrophilic alcohol in today's fuel. Parts for both items are a few hundred $ only.
