Engine out

Well, i decided to pull the motor to do the cam pulley swap and to clean the filthy bay from the CV grease that let loose last yr. ceramic coat the headers and replace hoses since it is all accessable now. now to go rob an ATM

i noticed that the cam bank cover for 5~8 is numbered 1~4 on the cover, is this normal?

this is job for two people. the space for pulling the motor is insanely tight and i need to go buy a load leveler for the lift. since i couldn't tilt the motor it came out by twisting it out like a screw. my neighbor helped out and brought the beer! see what a ferrari will do!

her's some pics, enjoy...
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i asked a few guys, before braving it myself and was told it should work, it obviosly did however this it not for the faint hearted! it takes lots and i mean lots of muscle to manuver and manipulate the motor out. i'm no little guy eithier, 6 1/2ft tall 250lbs makes it easier to push things around but so much harder to fit into the tight little italian work spaces of the engine bay.

a number of points on the way up more things got stripped from the motor or bay to accomodate the engine. so it took some time and negotiating. the biggest pain are the hood hinges and the latch. the latch is rivited to the car so it stays and the hinges are oddly placed so i couldn't get at the bolts under them.

dropping from below would ahve been the easiest but i don't have way to lift the car high enough.

 

i'm sick a twisted, that's how i figure it! if i had the spare $3~5k i'd gladly pay someone else to do this. but yrs of taking out motors and rebuilding them gets the best of me. the worst engine to date to pull has to be the yahama V6 in the ford SHO. transverse front drive shoehorned and greased up to get her in/out!

 

the insanity continues....i spent the afternoon cleaning the engine. need some more touch ups but the gunks off. used dawn soap and water, looks a 100000's better.

i needed to clean it before i could start anymore work. i just can't stand working on dirty stuff!
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i'll keep the updates coming. to remove the engine and sub assy from below adds another complexity, brake fluid! the harness is also clamped to the sub assy making it another pain. pulling it out up top allowed me to keep the brake and clutch lines intack. also the wiring harness didn't have to be re-threaded through. i think becouse my mondi is an '81 it was still put together so it came out up top. the engine harness connected at the sub assy making it an easy dissconnect.

if i wheel out the sub assy i'll need casters for the 'K' brace so it wouldn't tip forward. i can still detail the engine bay. i'm not going for 100pt concours correct as it is a daily driver and keeping it spotless will drive me nuts.

i'll be doing these services:
cam pulley and belt change
cam timing
drive pulley
plugs
exhaust ceramic coated
new hardware as needed
re-design on the oil/air seperator
replace coolant and fuel hoses..possibly all hoses
harmonic balancer
new accesory pulleys
supercharger
oil lines
new paint for manifold,valve cover and cam cover
fix oil pressure sender
etc...


all this needs to be done in the next 5~6 weeks as it is going to Monterey! so lets keep our fingers crossed! my wife already is wondering if i'm moving into the shop, or as she calls it "the bat cave"

time and money the two things i'm always short on!

 

ahh, the 'whilst i'm here' continues!
i pulled off the intake manifold to replace the hoses and in doing so noticed an injector come loose from its rubber grommet. so i decided to pull all the injectors. i ndoing some searching it looks as though the '77~'80 mercedes 450SEL uses the same rubber grommet and can be sourced for $1.39 a pop! i'll order one to see for sure. i'm going to have the injectors tested, however i also noted that the mercedes injectors are a whopping $32 per vs the $$$$ ferrari cost. a quick check of the bosch book shows all mercedes used the same injector as ferrari but not porsche! so it may be cheaper to buy all new injectors. my steel OEM's are slightly rusty and heavily carbonized.

the cost just keeps pilling on!!
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UPDATE:

talk about ticking tiime bomb!!!! i was removing the front exhaust cam and one of the middle caps had a loose nut! not finger loose but just sitting a few threads down from the top.

got the lower drive pulley's off and replaced them with the new ones. so far thats the easy part

now i'm waiting on injectors, seals, hoses etc...the head unit should be here next week then i can fab up the brakets and get it installed. route the oil lines and have some custom hoses done.

sounds simple enough but i know this is going to take all the time i have for the next 6wks. i hate relying on suppliers for parts, eats way to much time ...here's keeping those fingers crossed.

 

ohh man was today a busy day!

it started out with the concern over some additional thrust on the drivers side diff flange. i measured the thrust and it was .005" passenger side is 0, no movement. so i suspect a worn beering or shim. i open the case and measure and check the beerings, shims and they are all good. then as i play with the output shaft i notice the movement is further in by the clutches. so it looks as though i need to overhaul the diff, come winter. i don't have the time right now and the play isn't causing any leaks or issues yet, so back it goes.

i notice though the that lip seal is super easy to replace now that the carrier is off. whish i had noticed that before!.

onto the cams and pulleys! i started with 5~8 set the engined to TDC with a degree wheel. layed in the cams locating the notches and tightend down the caps. pay attention to the washers as they are belville washers, the cup faces down. tighten to 79 in*lbf or .9daN*m.

once in i positioned the pulleys on the cams and looped on the belt. from there it was beyond easy. i set the intake pulley and found a pin hole that would work. then the exhaust pulley, it took a few turns to get a hole lined up but were talking maybe a minute of work. set the pin adjusted the tension, and rotated the engine twice. checked the TDC to the cap marks and it was spot on! locked the flywheel and tightend the cam pulley bolt to 79 ft*lbf. i also set the allen bolts on the pulleys to 90in*lbf or 7.5ft*lbf NO MORE!!! you risk shear and stripping.

i also spent an hour scraping the silcone gasket combo off the heads and covers a real PITA! with all those studs in the way.

no update is complete without pics so here we go....


oh and the lipseal pic, is funny looking to me only becouse my hand is so large in comparison to it. the itailans don't have hands my size so it gets real fun working on these cars.
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comparison:
OEM vs update, the two pics show the difference in tooth engagement and number of positve contact. the adjustability is just icing, if i do say so myself

thought i'd share a close up.
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i did an intial run of 10 a few months back. they have now been picked up by Nick Forza & Verell of Unobtainuim SUpply Co. the're sponsers here, you'd have to contact them on price.
here's a couple of the threads:
http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=93723&highlight=adjustable+cam
http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=92021&highlight=adjustable+cam
http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=91286&highlight=adjustable+cam

lots of reading, sorry.

 

synoptic overview:
outer hub is 7075-T7 hub cut gear, hard ano in black mil-spec. inner is 6061-T6 red ano. double serrated belville washer and blue coated steel oxide bolts.

HTD2 curvelinear belt, superceeds trapazoidal. 10*A/R ability.

 

yes i used a degree wheel and dial indicator, the marks on the flywheel are close but not accurate for TDC. as to the cams, if you want to be highly accurate you'll need to measure each lobe and take the average. i've yet to measure a cam and get them all the same. very time consuming and not really worth the effort on the stock motor.

i use the timing events as per spec, and found the cams to be within 1/2*. i can further fine tune it now by pulleys without having to play pin/tooth jump.

the factory pullies have belt tooth spacing at 12* and the pin holes are 25* on the pulley and 28* on the cam.

my new pulleys are 10* tooth spacing and the same degrees for the pin as OEM. this has an advantage of 2* less movement when lining up the belt.

for max lift calculations you'd need to plot the cam profile in degrees, a real PITA. i find it simpler to measure valve lift and crank degrees to spot my cams. remember cam lobes rate of rise and fall is not equal on either side of the max lift.

 

mystery solved!
i have had the hardest time getting the engine to idle right. since i've been doing the cams i noticed what the problem is. now this engine is a re-built unit fom t-rutlands the PO had installed.

the intake cams are ferrari OEM 2Vi the exhaust cams are not ferrari OEM and have the timing events of the 2vEuro carb. so this is what my timing events look like.
I: 16/48
E: 30/28

any ideas on what this will do for power or where? i have driven the car for 5k+ miles and it does not lack low end torque from what i can feel. it pulls strong and keeps pulling right up to redline. the idle sounds like a small block chevy though, a thrump, thrump, thrump, ttthrump, and so forth smooth for a few cycles then lumpy a few cycles. it'll smooth out right around 2krpm.

 

cams, cams, cams the big PITA! alright i grabbed another dial gauge and went to work setting TDC. lined up the cams and caps. checked shim gap. here is what i got at factory settings of notches lining up with caps. all measurments at .50mm/.0196" lift
Banks 5~8
I:18/32
E:42/17

factory setting should be:
I:16/48
E:50/14

as we can see the grind on my cams is not there. using the my new pulleys i advanced the exhaust by 3* to get 48/11 and retarded the intake 2* to get 14/36.

started on banks 1~4 today.
once again lined it all up TDC and set the caps/cams.

I:6/45
if i move it by 8* i'll get close to the front bank with 14/37

so setting the cams to line up TDC with the caps and notches doesn't get the events correct. all i can figure is someone re-ground these and that explains the problems.

i'm calling t-rutlands tommorow morning to see what can be done. the motor was a replacement by the PO from them.