Evans Coolant

It will not reduce underhood temps. Those cars get very hot under the hood. It is a byproduct of making horsepower. Do you have a coolant temp problem?

 

napolis runs it in all his cars. maybe he will chime in and comment.

 

I run Evans in my 1933 Ford Flathead. There are viscosity issues and the construction of the radiator may or may not be compatible with Evans. I have had great luck in the Ford. I called the folks at Evans and they know more about coolant than you would ever need to know. They are very helpful.

http://www.evanscooling.com/
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Then your car has an issue which can be fixed. 550's do not have marginal cooling systems and are not prone to overheating in any climate or traffic situation. In stop and go traffic if you are seeing over 200 degrees it needs to be fixed. Different coolant is not the answer.

 

Hi

We run Evans in P 4/5. The engineers at Pininfarina wanted to lower operating temperatures and using various methods they did. Evan's was part of that engineering and works very well. You have to keep in mind that Evan's doesn't boil so if your gauge climbs too high you have to shut down and find out why or you will melt your engine.

P 4/5 runs a lot cooler than an Enzo. We don't use it in any other of our cars as we don't have any cooling issues, for some reason our P 3/4 runs very cool even in traffic.

I do agree with Brian's post above this one.

 

And....while you may not, I do define "climbs quickly getting close to red line" as overheating. "Normal" is 195 or less.

 

I run factory fluids in mt 355GTS F1 and my 456M GTA. I live in Las Vegas and have never had a need to deviate from what the factory specifies.

I only posted about my experience with Evans in my Ford to let you know Evans is the best place to talk to.

Napolis is correct about Evans not boiling. If you have an overheating issue that needs to be corrected first. Putting Evans in involves more than a flush and fill as well.

Good Luck!

 

Sounds same as a prob I have just had fixed. The two small temp sensors, one on each bank under the plenum, measure the coolant temp. I think the right one is a check for the left one (or vice versa), i.e. the left one normally kicks the fans in at say around 85-90c coolant temp, but if the right one reaches 105c then as a failsafe it prompts the ecu to kick the fans in (this is detailed in the 550 workshop manual).

So fans then kick in just before redline on the gauge, then the fans stay on to take it all the way down to normal 190F (90c), once they they reach cut off point they'll turn off, and then the whole thing repeats.

If your symptoms sound the same and under normal driving the temp stays below 190 then I would suspect you have faulty temp switch(es).

The temp switches are cheap, but it's 3hours or so and some new intake gaskets etc to get at them under the intake plenum, and refit plenum. If you do it yourself and disconnect fuel lines when removing plenum, remove the petrol/gas cap first to take the pressure out of the tank and feeds...amongst the usual precautions.