I replaced my 328 clutch cable. I think they are similar. One of the important things is to get it on a lift or over a pit and understand how it is installed. Removal is disconnect at both ends and pull out from beneath at the bottom of the foot box. Install from the same place, feeding one end back to the engine and the other end up through the footbox to the pedal. You need the car on a lift or over a pit and you will go back and forth from the inside to underneath, so I prefer a pit. At the end are two pictures, one where it connects to the pedal, one where it connects to the clutch. Lots of small parts. In the first picture, the cable will come up from beneath, be secured to the floor with bolt #12 in the picture then attach to the pedal. At the rear, the connection is with "turnbuckle #53 in the picture. Remeber that one nut turns the opposite way. When the end of the cable and the threaded end of the clutch lever are in the turnbuckle, you turn it and the length of the cable shortens, and the pedal rises. Then you tighten the two nuts (#54, 55) to secure the turnbuckle. Make sure that wheel (#49 ) spins freely. You have to remove it anyway, so clean it up. Below is some cut and paste from other posts here on FChat that I used to do it. Best of luck. Take your time. I am a DIYer, so I study pictures and the car a lot before I touch anything and it seems to help. Do it mentally a few times, so you understand how it works. ---------------------------------------------------- I just replaced the clutch cable for my 1985 308 QV today. Plan on spending 3 hours. First you have to put the car on a lift (if you do not have a lift you are in trouble). Next you have to unscrew the two nuts (12mm???) holding the clutch cable to the transmission underneath the car (left rear underside by the left wheel). Note that one nut has regular threads and the other has reverse threads. Once the nuts are loosened, you have to unscrew the long connector (about 4 inches long - 12mm????) that holds the clutch cable to the transmission connector. Next you have to unscrew the cable housing from the tube (17mm????). Once this is done, you have to unscrew the clutch cable from the clutch pedal. Then you have to unscrew the nut holding the clutch cable housing from the floor (19mm???). Now you can pull the entire clutch cable and housing out. To install the cable, reverse the above procedure. Note that the secret is to remove the access patch underneath the car to assist with installing the cable thru the tube. You will have to remove two small black "caps" on the tube so that the cable can go thru the tube. The "cap" is cut in half so you can slip the cable thru the cap and reinstall it. There is a third cap on the end of the tube near the tranmission. This is a straight forward procedure, but it is a major PITA. The hardest part for me was unconnecting and reconnecting the cable to the clutch pedal. Sorry for the lack of pictures. ------------------------------------------------ 1. Take the circlip and pin off the pedal so cable is loose. 2. You need to take the cover off the front steering assembly under the car. 3. Near where the pedal assembly is outside the car you'll see a bolt that holds the cable on remove it. 4.You'll see on the trans where the linkage is the threaded rod where the cable is loosen it to disconnect the cable. 5 Follow the tubing where the cable is routed through you'll find 2 rubber plugs that are split on each end of the tube, remove them as it prevents the cable from pulling out as well as installing the new cable. Thats about it relatively simple but time consuming as with anything else working on a Ferrari the first time. --------------------------------------------------------- On my car, the pulley was pretty much frozen and the dirt embedded in the grease acted like an abrasive. The pulley should spin freely, and it shouldn't have a flat spot ground into it. If there is a flat spot, the cable itself will prevent the pulley from turning. The clutch cable has a sleeved section that goes from just beneath the floor pan at the clutch pedal and loops down to the tube that runs to the back of the car, and fittings are swaged onto the ends of the cable so you can't just thread a new cable into the existing sleeve. At the back of the car, you remove the clutch cable end from the turnbuckle or just chop the cable where it's frayed. If you want to remove the cable more or less intact, you may want to remove the rubber plug on the end of the tube that the cable is routed in forward of the pulley so it doesn't get torn when pulling out the old cable. You'll probably need to pull the plug anyway when feeding the new cable in. After that, you do everything else from the area above and below the floor pan directly beneath the clutch pedal. The basic idea is to disconnect the cable end from the clutch pedal and remove a nut so you can poke the upper end of the sleeved section and cable down through the floorpan. Then from under the car you unscrew the other end of the sleeved section and pull the rest of the cable out. I think you have to remove a metal panel from the bottom of the car first to get access to the sleeved part of the cable...it'll be pretty obvious when you look under there...you need access to the area directly under the front of the floor mat. There's also at least one big round rubber plug in the bottom of the floor pan. You can pop them out to help route the cable end through the tube to the back. Some of the plugs are for the accelerator cable tube...so not those. Also recall when putting stuff back together that you'll need to adjust the lever arm and turnbuckle on the bell housing first, and then you use the clutch cable turnbuckle to level the clutch pedal with the brake pedal. After that, when the clutch pedal is too high due to clutch wear, you're supposed to only adjust the lever arm turnbuckle - not the clutch cable turnbuckle. The adjust instructions are in the owners manual and probably in some other threads. In theory if you're existing cable has not stretched and the adjust has always been done like ferrari says, the bell housing lever turnbuckle will already been in spec and you just need to fiddle with the cable turnbuckle. Best to check though. hope that helps...yell if not. It'll probably make more sense when you see what the new cable looks like. My feeble memory says that you have to spin the entire sleeved section to unscrew the bottom end of it, and that's only possible once the upper end has been disconnected and removed from the hole in the floorpan. ------------------------ Attached is the diagram from the parts book. You remove pin #8 to detach cable from pedal (lift the clutch pedal up...that'll lower #8 so you can get to the cotter pin more easily), then remove the clevis piece #6. The position of the clevis on the threaded rod isn't critical. Mine has the end of the rod protruding slightly through the clevis, but anything is fine as long as the rod isn't so far through the clevis to hit the pedal. Then remove nut/washer 12/13, and you can push the top of 11 down through floorpan. Unscrew the bottom of 11 from underneath and pull out the cable. Don't forget to xfer the washer #14 to the new cable (don't ask me why I remember this ) The clutch cable is held taunt by the spring on the clutch pedal, but it may sag a bit. Shouldn't sag enough so you notice much/any free play in the cable (usual disclaimer...this applies to 328's and 308's after around 1980...earlier 308's have a different clutch pedal setup and need freeplay to avoid premature clutch wear). The plug in the end of the tube just before the pulley should keep the cable from scraping against the end of the tube if it does sag (I think 15 in the attached pic). Also, keep in mind that one end of the turnbuckle on the bell housing lever and one end of the cable turnbuckle is a left-handed thread, so loosen the lock nuts the right way. When reinstalling, someone suggested sticking an oil filter or something under the clutch pedal to hold it up slightly above the brake pedal. This removes tension from the cable and makes it easy to screw the cable turnbuckle back on to about the right position. The cable mustn't twist as you screw on the turnbuckle. I'd adjust the pedal a little high so any stretch you get in the cable initially will lower the pedal back down. Just for reference, I got the cable from GT car parts for $70. Ferrari part number is 106745. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
I replaced mine this summer on an '83Qv. The thread is either in the 308 or tech section. I couldn't get the tension right for the clutch, so I had a local tech adjust it. There's no special tricks. I did it on 4 jack stands.
I replaced mine on my GT/4 a few months ago, there should be a thread with some actual pics here someplace. I would be happy to give any advice I can when needed. I too did it with the car on 4 jack stands. Cheers! DT
