I'd characterize it as needed for cats, but a better thing than just simple bolts+nuts on any exhaust system. Obviously, the euros seems to be getting by without them (so, without cats, you probably could too), but, if I was valuing a US version car, and it didn't have the spring-type system, I'd deduct the value to replace them (like any other missing component). Likewise, if a euro had the spring-type system, I'd give it a little plus value. JMOs.
I'd be curious to see how you sort out all of your files in your computer if you're putting photos of Ferrari parts in the same folder with Swedish girls In any case, the photo you posted is the one I took several years ago of the bolts I purchased for my car and to this day, everything is still in place (I wish Ferrari still used these cool ziploc bags for their stuff), nothing has vibrated loose. The key is the split lock nut Ferrari used in this application. FWIW, for future reference, here are the P/Ns (all for the 288 GTO): 118094 - bolt 114749 - spacer 111743 - spring 114748 - lock nut 112761 - washer (3 needed per assembly). Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Thanks steve - I've seen that (very helpful) diagram of yours before. With my system it just seems that the pipes need to be set towards the limit of some of the rotation available in order to get the thing lined up. I might have another look at it in due course - I have been thinking about putting the "shouty" stainess exhaust back on it for this summer anyway (just a standard one on there at the moment). The setup of the pipes between the two systems I have also needs to be very different as well, so I have to readjust everything to swap them (including the lengths of the spring hangers).
Random question. With the spring bolt system that has the nut, bolt, spring, spacer and two washers, how does the spring compress with the spacer holding the washers back?
Just to confirm, the spacer is short enough that as you tighten the bolt it compresses the spring and the limit on that compression is the spacer. the spacer is shorter than the unloaded length of the spring. The assembly is this: Bolt >washer>spacer inside spring>washer> exhaust flange>washer>nut Lester
I was reading Steve's section here and was hoping the trick would work on aftermarket exhaust? I got the whole Stebro system, headers and muffler/exhaust, and its off a tad. I can't tell if the bolts with the springs is the issue or its just the system itself. Us aftermarket guys do we need to install the springs too? Or can we get away with just the bolts with washers and nuts? Image Unavailable, Please Login
Can you post an overall photo of your exhaust system with the Stebro? If it has fewer joints/pieces in the path, this adjustment freedom can be lost, and you will be much more dependent on the fabrication accuracy/inaccuracy of the aftermarket silencer.
Like you said, fewer joints on it. Here's what it looks like bolted on. It's missing a few bolts Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Did you buy that Stebro system used (i.e., someone modified it, or it's really for a different year/model/version) and/or add the O2 sensor bungs yourself? Maybe the thermocoupe bungs were added to have a place to keep them and/or help "fool" an emission inspector, but I would leave them out (and cap the bungs) as they would just be useless obstructions (as is the bung). If you cut an inch or two out of the "long" pipe length going to the 5-8 header, it might improve the symmetry of the tip locations and reduce the angle misalignment of the other joint some, but you may have to crush the snot out of that 1-4 bank gasket with simple bolts+nuts anyway to seal it up -- just some random thoughts...
That's how an early NON CAT system looks (emulating ANSA) and the only spring sets are indeed at the header tri-flange. My pics are in no particular order, they sort numerical and then by alphabet, so "springs" is next to "Swedish".....sorry! I do need to sort them all, some day...
No the system I got new a few years ago. I added the bungs for my O2 sensor. I caped one when not in use. The small port ones I believe are for the "slow down" lights. I was going to hook them up but they, probes, got too much of a bend on them. So I'm going to plug them up. Just need to find the size and some sort of plug. But I'll tell you, if I don't use the donuts, the fit is perfect. Yes, I really did a number on that donut. I think the small bend is whats giving me trouble. Image Unavailable, Please Login
I'm resurrecting this old thread, because I needed a replacement like the original poster, and wanted something same day. It doesn't look like anyone could provide some off-the-shelf aftermarket part number. Advanced Auto/Autozone seem to carry what was needed pretty commonly: Use the spring from Dorman 03107 and the bolt/nut from Dorman 03146. The only mod required, was that the step on the bolt to seat the spring was just a tiny bit too big in diameter, so had to grind for 30 seconds on grinding wheel. A dremel or better yet a lath would work too. I went to a couple different auto places before I found this successful setup. With a little more time, would have ordered the "right" spring and used M8 hardware.
I'm installing a Tubi exhaust and plan on cleaning up (they're rusty) the stock bolts, nuts and springs. Anybody know the torque values? Thanks.
