Extreme Wear on inside corner of REAR tires

Too much negative camber...but the toe out could also be contributing. Is there any "feathering" of the tread?

 

Could be camber, toe, tire pressure, driving style.

Probably alignment though. : )

...not an amateur job IMO. Requires a lot of detailed setup and measuring to get right. I would leave it to a pro at $75-120 being a standard range. A lot of crappy places out there though; make sure you get a solid referral. A proper alignment can make an incredible difference.

 

Easy,
you need to double your speed in the corners and clip the apex every time. Wear should even out quickly although you'll need new tires sooner

 

So he should double his speed in the corners on improperly worn tires. Not fix the problem first?

 

Excellent advice. An alignment is not a first time DIY job and it is so cheap that you are best to leave it to the hands of a pro. I also agree with getting a good reference.

In addition I would add that it is more money but go any buy 4 new tires before your alignment. Yes only 2 may be worn but you would be amazed at the difference of doing a good alignment on a matched set of new tires (save the Days of Thunder references please).

 

If it is an alignment issue, why would it have changed? Check your rubber a-arm bushings for deterioration.

 

I think this is sort of "normal" on stock 308QV and 328 as the rear toe-in spec is towards the large side (3~4mm) as is the rear camber spec (-1.5 ~ -1.8 deg). Running the same size rear wheels/tires on my ex-308, about -1 deg was the maximum amount of rear camber that could be used for street driving and get reasonable equal wear across the tread width of the tire (and the rear toe-in spec was 2~3 mm IIRC). If you get the alignment checked, and it isn't crazy compared to the stock specs, you might consider shooting for the low end of the toe-in spec and reducing the rear negative camber -- of course, you should lower the front end a bunch and add much more negative camber there too

 

What are the alignment specs for 308 and 328?

 

The stock alignment specs for any year/version 308/328 are shown in the corresponding OM.

 

Yep; and at the risk of looking an idiot (which I duly accept...) do please bear in mind that the cars whith bulged wheels and revised suspension have different suspension alignement specs, and settings, that the cars with concave wheels.
And that, to my knowledge, only the last edition of the owner manuals (513/88 for euros cars without cats ; 518/88 for swiss & euros cars with cats ; 535/88 for american market cars) have the correct suspension settings for these bulged wheels / revised supension cars; so take care...

 

Last year one of the Ferrari main dealers in London (HR Owen) had an open day at which they offered free suspension geometry check. The printout I received stated some of the values were out. But when I checked the specified values on the printout I found they didnt match the factory specified values in the OM. I suspect thats exactly the reason. When they dialled the car into their computer, it used the settings for the concave wheel cars.
In fact my settings were perfectly OK.

 

Don't think it would be pressure...under inflated would wear the edges on both sides & over inflated would wear in the center. I don't think driving style style is the culprit either...aggressive driving would wear the outside edges & non aggressive would not do anything.

Alignments can be done with pretty good accuracy at home if you know what you are doing. It can be done as simple as with some string and 48" bubble level. You can find info online...try googling it or you tube. If you can't find, let me know, I've got a link somewhere.

 

Think this was meant "tongue in cheek"...the higher corner speeds will even out the tire wear.

 

Yes, make sure that all bushings are in good order and nothing is bent. Was the car recently lowered? Did this wear pattern happen all of a sudden?

 

Ehh. Don't agree 100%. Probably right on pressure, but if you run big camber and drive straight, most cars will eat the inside of the tires. But I would always suspect toe first. As to doing a home alignment, I stand by what I said. It is tedious and requires a lot of attention to detail if you want to be accurate, not worth it to me with the awesome alignment machines and techs available.

 

Do you also have an issue with "power oversteer"?

After my engine-out service, my 328's handling was pretty poor. I attributed it to the older GY tires, but after a couple of months, the inner edges were badly wearing.

I had the shop do a full *four wheel* alignment, and fitted new Bridgestones.
It transformed the car's handling.

It's a complex job: some of the rear adjustments involve adding or removing shims.
(I lent the mechanic a hemostat I carry as a soldering heat sink and small parts plier, and it made working the shims a lot easier on him.)
It was done "while you wait", but I was there pretty much all day.

But it certainly improves your handling, much less tire wear.

I did some research, and I did my own alignment on my Celica GT-Four, after fitting coil-overs, with a pumb bob, a protractor, and a tape measure.
But with the shims involved, it's better to let a good shop do the 328 on a Hunter (laser) machine.
(Just be sure they don't try to mount the mirrors over wheel weights -- a Toyota dealer messed up my alignment with mis-mounted mirrors.)

I usually recommend at least checking your alignment whenever you buy new tires. No sense getting new tires if they don't contact the road correctly.

 

They are also supposed to load the car with an equivalent to a persons weight as in the picture. Theoretically I suppose they should also load the passenger seat but then again who allows heavy passengers in their cars
Incidentally the car in the second picture which is on the lift and covered in the background is Eric Claptons "special".
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Nice car.