M F1 tank has a leak at the bottom hose connection, lost enough when car was sitting for a month to set off low fluid indicator. I think I will replace bottle and hoses. Does this need special equipment to do? Image Unavailable, Please Login
Steve- Affirmative, when you change the tank and hoses, you will introduce air into the system. The easiest way to bleed the system is to use an SD2 or equivalent. If she has not had the F1 system serviced in the last 3 years, Ferrari's last recommendation for F1 system service, a good time to change all the fluid and perform a self test on the system and a leak check after bleeding.
Taz, thanks It is just now 3 years since last F1 service. So I guess I will have the hoses done at F1 service.
I'm cheap and lazy. If the hoses were not hard as a freaking rock I would cut those ott clamps off and use gates powergrip thermo clamps. They make surprising grip on hoses uniform 360 degrees. They expand and contract with heat /cold cycling and somehow always make the right tension. In 5 years I have not had a single leak on multiple cars. I even stopped a similar leak on a hard power steering hose of a BMW to the power steering reservoir. That one was a hail mary for a touchdown!
FBB thank you for mentioning those clamps, was not familiar. Question, is there any reason that the gatespowergrip thermo clamps would not be an appropriate application for the silicone coolant hoses beneath the plenum? Getting the tension correct on these is always a concern, especially with the work involved to readjust. My apologies for going off topic. Just sounds like a good solution for another potential leak. Thank you. Bill FL
Carl, I assume you have SRI hoses under the plenum, did you use Powergrip clamps on the big hose? Do you remember the size?
Sorry I don't remember the size. I never thought hose would make any difference silicon vs. rubber. I would have to check but I do not remember any use restriction with gates powergrip. I used them under plenum with no leaks. When I use conventional clamps I always place the screw in position where I can get at it if possible. The clamps are heat shrink. I have never tried a hairdryer since I have a heat shrink tubing gun that looks like a hairdryer. Just point the gun at one side of clamp and it shrinks. Heat does transfer keep it moving best you can and the backside will shrink too. Then heat from use will do the rest and seek the right engineered tension from Gates. I think they are a great clamp to prove to yourself. Go put one on the upper hose on your daily driver and you can see how easy they work and monitor their value over a week of driving. I use these powergrips anywhere I can except on my racecar where I might have to pull things on and off trackside because when I race I lack infrastructure and tools. I don't have electricity for my heatgun in the paddock at Sebring.
Hair dryers are appliances, heat guns are tools I have a house full of appliances and a garage full of tools.
That’s why I had a heavy duty inverter under the back seat of my Excursion 7.3 diesel race car tow vehicle. I had it chipped with a fast idle program just for running the inverter in the pits, worked great for powering drill motors, Dremil tools, and such.
I’m in Mexico now, I’ll check when I get home. I remember my 78 Porsche came with an air compressor that ran off the cigar lighter so it should work.
I should quantify small as say 1/2HP with 3 to 5 gallon tank like a harbor freight special. I'm guessing 1000w running and 2000 startup would be minimum. Enjoy Mexico. I'm freezing in SoCal it is 48F. The best thing about driving the 550 yesterday and today is warming up my freezing garage so I can work without a jacket. That 550 makes long lasting heat. I'm looking forward to my next Florida trip in a few weeks for some warmth and good fishing.
That hose with the junction was very hard. The other was NLA so mechanic used new clamp and some sealer.
