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355 F1 clutch readings, clutch job in my future.

Discussion in '348/355' started by phrogs, Jun 14, 2019.

  1. phrogs

    phrogs F1 Veteran
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    Apr 13, 2004
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    Ok so what exactly does this tell you?

    My dealer said the clutch was changed at some point and computer wasn't reset or set up correctly. So all these readings are off.

    My car is a euro spec if there is a difference?

    I'm wondering after a new clutch where should these numbers be?

    These are the only perammiters he alerted me too and marked.
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  2. carnutdallas

    carnutdallas Formula Junior
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    #2 carnutdallas, Jun 14, 2019
    Last edited: Jun 14, 2019
    I think you are fine. I would have to defer and not having it set up correctly is not the best thing, but you may be fine. Is it slipping at all? Oh and the higher the number, the more wear and less life. So 99% pretty much done for.... but peeps have gone 110%, my tech says he has seen higher, but that could be a set up issue allowing the wild numbers.

    I am at just over 72% over 3 months ago and I have put 700+ miles on, zero issues and two full throttle sport mode head knockers in there. I have reversed up hill on my drive twice when forced to to load backwards on lift. Otherwise, I stab reverse and getting moving then flick into neutral. Mainly drive forward. My plan is to never need a clutch until I sell and will price accordingly.


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  3. Skippr1999

    Skippr1999 F1 Rookie
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    The reason owners replace the clutch plate without the computer set up is because the car has the ability to set itself up. The clicks you hear in the rear is the self calibration the system is doing to determine correct parameters.
    Without the computer, you won’t get the correct wear figures, but those aren’t very accurate anyway. But the clutch will be fine.

    Remember, this is 1998 computer technology.
     
  4. phrogs

    phrogs F1 Veteran
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    I'm going to see what it looks like in there with bore scope and maybe yank off the clutch and measure it and give it a look see.
     
  5. Skippr1999

    Skippr1999 F1 Rookie
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    Are you having any symptoms, or just learning about the system ?
     
  6. ruey220

    ruey220 Karting
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    May 24, 2019
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    I also was given a 72% wear on the clutch for my PPI. it seems fine for now. I am thinking since I'm toward the later part of the life of the clutch, I'll probably start sourcing out the parts. Is there anything that usually needs to be replaced besides just the clutch when going in to do the service? I've read some do throw out bearings as well, is that needed?
     
  7. watkinsgt

    watkinsgt Karting

    Feb 4, 2008
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    My '99 F1 with 22k mi. is currently in the shop with a failed throw out bearing. Apparently this is a common (some say 100%) failure. In the course of failing, the bearing scored the flange (shaft the bearing rides on). Ferrari's replacement bearing is $1100, flange $4000. Ricambi provides an improved Hill Engineering bearing for $500 and an OEM flange for $1000 - thank you Daniel. When replacing the clutch, consider proactively replacing the T/O bearing, potentially saving yourself a damaged flange - not to mention the joys of the tow to the shop.
     
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  8. Subarubrat

    Subarubrat Formula 3

    Apr 1, 2009
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    Absolute perfect summary that I can 100% confirm, and most importantly of all for us F1 owners as well! I had an opportunity recently to play around with the service computer and my 355F1. There were a number of questions I always had that either were not answered at all or I hadn't seen enough proof to convince myself. The community figured out how to do allot that was thought to be SD dependent but the two remaining things (clutch wear reset and actuator centering) seemed to be still locked in. I had a chance to find out what if anything the clutch wear index really did, I pushed it to some absurd values like 8 clutch changes without it being reset and I am totally convinced the value has no bearing on clutch performance or lifespan and it service information (that is often wrong) only. Also confirmed to my pleasure was that the PIS as set by the self cal is as good as what the SD commands. In short, F1 owners are no longer tied to the SD for a clutch change, put the new one in and drive. The one remaining hurdle is the actuator centering and I have been giving that some thought for a while. Being SD free is pretty likely in the future.
     
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  9. Skippr1999

    Skippr1999 F1 Rookie
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    Great info Scott,
    Thanks for posting
     
  10. Subarubrat

    Subarubrat Formula 3

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    I should clear that up a bit, my bad... Put a new clutch in, perform PIS self learn, and drive.
     
  11. ruey220

    ruey220 Karting
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    Are all these parts already accessible when changing the f1 clutch? Or is it slightly incremental additional hours to do it?

    Thanks
     
  12. Subarubrat

    Subarubrat Formula 3

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    You are looking at them when you remove the clutch housing/clutch assembly. The Hill throw out is a great option!
     
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  13. WATSON

    WATSON F1 World Champ
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    Sep 9, 2010
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    I have over 22,000 miles on my clutch and it was showing 40% wear when I bought it.

    Still in there....

    Sooooo I am watching this thread closely :)
     
  14. phrogs

    phrogs F1 Veteran
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    I had the fuel recall done and had them do a scan and clear an airbag code, He did a scan of everything and went over it with me as well as gave me the full print out.
     

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