F1 Fluid change confusion

Discussion in '360/430' started by dweintra, Jan 27, 2020.

  1. dweintra

    dweintra Karting

    Aug 16, 2012
    Seattle, WA
    Hello all....I am pending on an F430 and curious about the F1 fluid change. I plan to do it and had heard it involved a lot of disassembly. I read some threads about a $300 fluid change, but I am told it is a lot more labor and closer to 1k to do it right. I read something about sucking fluid out, etc but sure how effective that is.

    Anyone change it recently and any thoughts on what method? Cost? The tranny shifts well and nothing is wrong, but we don't know when it was changed last and it looks a bit dirty. Car has around 15k miles on it. thx!
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  3. flash32

    flash32 Formula 3

    Aug 22, 2008
    Central NJ
    Full Name:
    Welcome back to the Ferrari world .. I will to help with the confusion
    A fluid change is different from a true bleed
    A true bleed will require a Ferrari diag tool or equivalent and the removal of the actuator - this usually means cats have to come off as well
    As you can see bleeding a system is some work so it would cost more
    AS for a normal fluid change - there is two schools of thought
    1 - change as much fluid in reservoir using a turkey baster a few times with fresh fluid with some driving in between and repeat every year - somewhat effective especially if done every year since new and no problems
    2 - flush out from ediff bleed screw, and clutch ( 2 stops) while adding new fluid in reservoir - this is what I think is a flush done by dealers etc ( not a bleed)

    In your case a flush as indicated on 2 would be your best bet since you are not experiencing any issues or replaced any parts

    I have seen indies do all fluids including f1 fluid flush using SD tool for under 1500 - including oil, gear oil, screens, filters, brake fluid,coolant etc

    In terms of f1 fluid by itself - not sure the cost -

    I hope this helps
    24000rpm likes this.
  4. 24000rpm

    24000rpm F1 Rookie
    Silver Subscribed

    #3 24000rpm, Jan 27, 2020
    Last edited: Jan 27, 2020
    ok, its just a hydraulic close circuit with a pump. There are various bleeding point on this circuit. You can also count the reservoir as a bleeding point too.
    When the car is driven, the full circuit's fluids would cycle.

    What does this mean? This means that you can replace a little bit of the fluids by sucking out of the reservoir ( RH, rear) and put new fluid in, and let it cycle. Then sucking out some again, and let it cycle.

    technically, let's say you have 2 liters of fluid in the full circuit. Each time you suck out 0.3 liter (0.3/2= 0.15) . That means:

    if you do "sucking-new fluid in- driving a bit" for 3 times, you'll get 0.15+ 0.85x0.15 + 0.85x0.15x0.15 = about 30% new fluid in.

    All of above is assuming you can't activate the pump and let it cycle 100% and it costs only a turkey baster and the fliud money.

    Another method , a little more involved, if you could somehow activate the pump by letting somebody shift for you in the driver seat and you put a hose onto one of the bleeders. Bleed and add fluid simultaneously. That will replace more than 0.3 liter each time you do it. same said principle applies. But it will not be 100% replacement because each bleeder will somehow bleed a portion of the circuit. Only when you drive the car will the fluid be cycled 100%. By bleeding just one bleeder you are cycling the fluid not by 100%, but way more than you can do with the turkey baster method.

    Now you get it, you can bleed all of the bleeders and get 100%. but that's too much trouble with diminished return. (SOME BLEEDING POINTS ARE LIKE 1-2 HOUR LABOR TO JUST ACCESS!) And some bleeder points won't let you cycle the fluid with "somebody in the driver seat method", u need a diagnostic computer to open certain "valves" in the circuit.

    so pick your method.

    personally, i'd just bleed one bleeder at the RH of the RH airbox, because it is very easy to access.

    NOTE: ALL OF ABOVE STATEMENTS ARE ASSUMING U DO NOT HAVE AIR BUBBLE IN THE CIRCUIT. i.e. u need to replace with new fluid only as an OCD.

    why OCD? becaue, i tell you what, for one of my cars, I didn't replace my f1 fluid for 5 years already and it works just fine! oh yea, its a blastromy, somebody's going to jump through my throat. OK, OK, I'll replace it tomrrow............

    flash32 likes this.
  5. dweintra

    dweintra Karting

    Aug 16, 2012
    Seattle, WA
    You guys are amazing....! Thank you this is very helpful.
  6. PKIM

    PKIM Karting

    Jan 1, 2004
    Full Name:
    I certainly agree with refreshing the F1 fluid and the simplest way is via turkey blaster, removing alittle at a time but this doesn't address changing out the two small filters in the pump, that can get clogged with debris and restrict flow. I have bought the 2 small filters and will be changing them out then bleeding the system by opening the door to activate the pump.
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  8. tazandjan

    tazandjan Three Time F1 World Champ
    Lifetime Rossa Owner

    Jul 19, 2008
    Clarksville, Tennessee
    Full Name:
    Terry H Phillips
    The fluid should be changed completely, the system bled, self test and leak test done every three years, plus a PIS optimization is highly recommended at that time. Annually sucking out around half or a little less of the fluid keeps her in great shape. You really need a diagnostic tool to do a complete job. Ferrari did not figure this out until around 2006, when they finally started recommended changing the fluid every three years.

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