So now I have the car, need to address things some issues.... I have used the search function and found a number of threads but am no sure if I am dealing with an F1 pump issue or other adjustment/ sensors. The clutch was just replaced 50 miles ago. Cold, the car shifts up and down briskly with no warning light in any gears. After 20 mins of driving with car up to temp, the upshift seem to become more sluggish (like there is slippage for a brief moment) at lower rpms (3500). Also, when downshifting from 3 to 2 the F1 gearbox light comes on very briefly (1/2 sec give or take) and when coming to a full stop, the gearbox will sometimes go to neutral and again briefly light up the warning light. I havent driven the car more than 30 mins at a time so I am uncertain if is gets worst. Out of curiosity, I borrowed a used F1 pump from a member and switched it out, based on limited testing the behavior remains the same. Any ideas on what I am dealing with? Could it be a clutch adjustment? TIA FRG
I'm sure one or two of the resident experts will chime in on this shortly so I'm replying as much to "subscribe" as offer an opinion. Opinion:- You mentioned clutch recently replaced - sounds to me like you need to bring it back for a few tweaks and that it's probably not set up properly. Interested to see how it's resolved. Good luck.
Probably not. If you are getting a light they are good about leaving errors in memory. Someone good should not have a great deal of trouble from there.
Did you bleed the power unit after replacing the pump? The first thing I would look at based on you description is loose bleed screws on the shift actuator, common concern. Those are basic items there are many other components that can cause issues and a thorough inspection and test is really needed before you can accuratly diagnose.
Franck, I had a problem with my car where it felt like the clutch was slipping. At first I thought I was imagining it (long story), but then it quickly progressed to the point where the F1 light came on and the car would not even start. It turned out to be my angular sensor was dirty mentioned in this thread (http://ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=296498). David cleaned the sensor, adjusted the PIS and now my car shifts better than ever. David also worked on another car that sounds like your problem - worked fine when cold, but then slipped into neutral when up or downshifting after fully warmed up. Look at post 41 in the same thread above. You may want to have him check it out. Good luck, -Jim
I concur with Jim. Before you start changing the pump and trying to run F1 hydraulics bleeding procedure, you should clean the sensor (mentioned above). If that does not help, bleed the system again a couple of times after driving with frequent shifting. If that does not help - change the pump, or at least the electric motor. Cheers.
Checkout gearbox potentiometer. i had similar issue after new clutch did not solve problem. All works well now. This fault should show up on computer diagnostics.
I drove the car today for more extended period of time as well as some track time. Here are the symptoms when car is hot. Shifting to first gear, F1 light comes on briefly though once out of 10 it will shift back to neutral, then the light stays on for a second I try again and gear engages. Sifting to 2 gear light goes on for longer maybe 1.5 -2 seconds. Coming to a stop one out two times the car will go to neutral from second instead of 1rst. Car upshift and downshifts in all other gear perfectly fine. I did static test without engine running and the same warning light duration occurs (unsurprisingly) but I can hear the pump cycling. When shifting to first it cycles for 3-4secs and second gear 6-7 seconds approx (but definitely longer). Cant **** to 3rd so dont know if this is similar in other gears. I plan to take the car in for diagnostics next week but am curious to know if anyone knows about what this might be. BTW, I switched out the F1 pumps no difference, clutch has 150miles. Tomorrow Ill clean the sensors.
The bleeding procedure described in my previous thread you are referring to is the bare minimum what one should do when changing the pump. However, this procedure does not warrant that there will be no air left in the hydraulic lines, because if one fails to keep adding hydraulic fluid into the reservoir, the pump can aspirate some air, which will be transmitted into the line... Here are descriptions of complete bleeding procedures (see the attached pictures): Note: It is advisable to begin draining at the union (2) and finish at the union (1) on the gearbox. When using an electrical battery instead of SD-2: 1- Connect the 12V 8A/h battery to the pump electric contacts as described in my previous post. 2- Choose "Diagnosis" from the main menu. 3- Choose "CLUTCH DRAINING" from the "DIAGNOSIS" menu. 4- Add oil into the tank to prevent the oil level from running low. 5- Open the clutch draining union and wait 3÷4 seconds to let the oil flow out. 7- Close the draining union once again. 8- Top up the oil level in the tank. 9- Shift gears a couple of times and top-up the level. 10- Repeat procedures 6-7-8 two or three times, on both draining unions. 11- Once the operation has been completed, tighten the unions to the prescribed torque of 18 Nm. When using SD-2: 1- Connect the SD-2 system to the diagnosis plug. 2- Choose "Diagnosis" from the main menu. 3- Choose "CLUTCH DRAINING" from the "DIAGNOSIS" menu. 4- Add oil into the tank to prevent the oil level from running low. 5- Press "ENTER" to activate the tester. 6- Open the clutch draining union and wait 3÷4 seconds to let the oil flow out. 7- Close the draining union once again. 8- Top up the oil level in the tank. 9- Repeat procedures 6-7-8 two or three times, on both draining unions. 10- Once the operation has been completed, tighten the unions to the prescribed torque of 18 Nm. 11- Wait for the tester to exit the draining procedure and to display the related positive result. 12- Shift gears a couple of times and top-up the level. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
CORRECTION !!! CORRECTION !!! CORRECTION !!! When using an electrical battery instead of SD-2: 1- Connect the 12V 8A/h battery to the pump electric contacts as described in my previous post. 2- Add oil into the tank to prevent the oil level from running low. 3- Open the clutch draining union and wait 3÷4 seconds to let the oil flow out. 4- Close the draining union once again. 5- Top up the oil level in the tank. 6- Shift gears a couple of times and top-up the level. 7- Repeat procedures 6-7-8 two or three times, on both draining unions. 8- Once the operation has been completed, tighten the unions to the prescribed torque of 18 Nm.
