F1 overhaul thread; clutch, pump, throwout, flywheel, 360 pump etc.

I already installed the rest, but here is what the factory shields look like cleaned up and painted.
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Fabspeed headers, coated, blankets will be added, installed!
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I finished up everything today and ran through the calibrations but could still not trigger the octopus self cal. The car ran great and on the test drive the F1 system shifted through the gears nicely and a through inspection on the lift after the fact showed that there were no leaks or issues. If course now we have snow forecast and a fresh application of salt so it will just be a waiting game until the roads are nicer and then it goes to the shop to get the F1 system calibrated for the new hardware.

 

What has yours down?

 

I spent another 50 attempts of by the book and variations of sequence to kick off the self learn for the octopus self learn and no joy, it really bugs me I can't get it to initiate. It seems some do and some don't based on the posts here. For those who have gotten it to kick off, can you go do it again and write a narration of exactly what you did? It will probably be the same exact thing that the rest of us have tried but it would be worth a comparison.

 

I pulled the ECU and F1TCU (assuming the blue to be the F1TCU and the white to be the engine ECU) and snapped a pic of the wiring. Can someone please snap a pic of their connector wiring for comparison?

@MicroFirm, could I get a pic of yours since it is a known good?
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It certainly does seem to match, I think that eliminates the TPS reverse wiring that was seen by another owner (preventing the self learn from kicking off). If yours is wired that way and can enter the self learn then mine should have as well.

 

Verified against 0.0.1.99's gracious contribution and even though all wiring looks correct my car will not enter the self test. No reason to believe that any of the inputs are inop, they all work fine otherwise. So what is keeping mine from entering the cycle? I will be scheduling a SD calibration soon and I will post the results here.

 

You did get lucky, I saw a Kitfox airplane burn when a similar leak onto exhaust happened. If I had to replace that, considering that air may have already entered the system and that your going to have to remove the hose to repair it bleeding it is necessary so I would go ahead and pull the hose, coupler, and the fitting that threads into the block. Once you identify the threads on the hose and and the fitting the coupler slips on to your task should be fairly simple. If it turns out to be something standard then any hydraulic shop should be able to make the hose for you, if they are some odd metric size not usually sold in the USA then you should be able to source the fittings online and take all of it to a hydraulic shop for assembly. Worse case you could find adapters from metric to SAE and have a standard hose made up to go adapter to adapter.

And once your done, you can attempt bleeding DIY, given that your portion to be bled will be after the valve body and running to the clutch it should go well for you. Have an assistant open the bleed valve on the clutch cover while you upshift, each shift will pulse out fluid just like brake bleeding. Once the air is out and nothing but clear fluid flows you have the assistant close the valve while it is flowing and you should be properly bled.

 

I just can't let the idea that this thing won't self cal go by until I have exhausted every option. I talked to a very respected independent Ferrari tech who suggested going back to basics and checking every fuse, every relay so I did just that, it was good advice but didn't discover the problem although it did prompt me to look in some new directions. I decided to verify the signals to the TCU needed to initiate self cal. The 3 inputs needed to initiate self cal are automatic button, throttle position sensor (pedal at 100%) and brake pedal.

Brake and auto mode were the two obvious on/off type ones and I verified the auto mode button first, both with the meter and that the TCU does go into auto mode when driven, it does. The brake input was validated with a meter at the TCU connector and there is 12v present when the brake is pressed. That leaves the TPS. I brought up the realtime data stream and it is 0% at rest and 72% at full throttle. Before I get too excited and assume that it isn't entering self test due to the 72% throttle being max indicated rather than 100% I want to verify the TPS values, lets face it Torque could be saying 72% but who knows how accurate that is being reported, it SHOULD be accurate but who knows?


So following the WSM measurements on page C-13 I got the following MEASUREMENTS

Pins 1-2 MIN 2.75K MAX 1.396K
2-3 MIN 2.12K MAX 2.12K
3-1 MIN 1.107K MAX 2.641K

Compared to the manual limits:

1-2 Are supposed to be fixed at 2K, mine varies.
2-3 Are supposed to vary from .85K to 2.7K mine is fixed at 2.12K
3-1 Are supposed to very from 2.7K to .85K and mine is 1.10K to 2.64K

Perhaps, this brings into light the reason for some swapped wiring on other cars? Someone looked at the readings and reasoned that the pin pairs were swapped and moved the wires to match? But if the documentation is in error who knows which one is right.

Either I have some freaky internal shennanigans or Ferrari has swapped pins 2-3 for 1-2. Assuming they swapped sets, my resistance of 2.12K would be within the plus or minus tolerance given for the resistive element. And my MAX and MIN readings on the two variable tracks being within spec for MAX given the range and out of limits for the MIN given range with the 1.03k actually reaching 1.39. So the TPS may be bad or misaligned. Going to look into that more.

_EDIT Just pulled the sensor and no adjustment is possible so since it is out of limits I am inclined to replace it, anyone with experience in this?

 

Doing some more digging, assuming that Ferrari doesn't always give you the whole picture I thought does the MIN-MAX of the pot range may be the values the sensor is capable of on or off the car. Pulled from the car the TPS actually meets the tolerances by about 10% and the allowance is 20%. So it seems the TPS is acceptable on that premise. Even off the shaft and turned manually to max travel the ECU only registers 80%. The WSM makes a reference to a self learn procedure if a TB calibration is done or TPS sensor is replaced. I am digging for how to do that now, if the TPS isn't calibrated to reach 100% then the barrier to entering the self test seems reasonable.

 

It is a non issue, I had a neighbor operate the bleed with a box wrench and he used an empty coke bottle to catch it.

 

I thought I should post an update on the project. I finally had time to drop the car off at the dealer to get it calibrated. They bled the F1 system as part of the standard procedure to setup the clutch and F1 actuator calibration. I asked if it cleared any air and they said it seemed to be already bled properly, backing up the bleed method discussed here. Everything seems correct, it shifts great and the clutch action seems as smooth as it was before.