F1 Transmission

based on a lot of threads here, it seems that getting neutral with a F1 gearbox is usually due to a worn clutch.

 

Yup! As above.

If you want to learn more about it just browse and/or search in this section and also the 360/430 section, there's loads of discussions and threads on it and while there are sometimes other factors at play it's most often nothing more than time to change the clutch.

Ultimately you're probably going to need a trip to someone with the correct diagnostic equipment to plug in and diagnose the issue.

Best.

 

While this symptom is usually associaed with a worn clutch, it is also associated with an incorrect PIS value. Take the vehicle to a dealer or service center with an SD2 to diagnose clutch and PIS values.

 

Check fluid level.

 

Agreed, also have them pull the inspection plate and visually verify the clutch thickness. Some people reset the clutch wear indicator on a worn clutch before they sell to give a false sense of security to buyers.

 

I had issues with my car occasionally selecting neutral when up shifting from 5th to 6th under light throttle load.

Took it to Seattle Ferrari & they did an F1 actuator re-centering & bleed procedure. I also had the F1 fluid flushed & refilled.

No issues since, Car works great.

People like to automatically assume, since it's an F1, that a worn clutch will cause it to miss shift.

Not so..................................

 

Mark and the crew at Ferrari of Seattle are First Rate!!!

 

Did you ever have any problems going from 2nd to 3rd? I am having the shifting problem, but never got up to 5th and 6th. Believe clutch is good as I saw it last June. Fluid was replaced last June (leaky line was why it was in the shop). Do not see any fluid leaks now.

Thanks

ceb

 

what does that mean?

 

Started in 1st, shifted to 2nd, then attempted to shift to 3rd. The number 3 showed up on the dash, but when I tried to accelerate the car was not in gear, so no acceleration. Made no attempt to go into 4th, 5th, or 6th.
Was able to down shift in 2nd and drove the car back to my house. F1 reservoir has fluid in it, and there is no leaking fluid. Car has about 48K on it. This is the first time I have had this problem.
A leak in the F1 fluid line was fixed last June, plus the clutch looked good at that time. When attempting to shift from 2nd to 3rd there was a sound that did not sound normal. Can the re-centering you talked about be performed without removing the transmission?

Thanks for you help.

ceb

 

So it sounds like a mechanical problem since the TCU displays 3 on the dash. That means the actuator is working and the sensors are seeing the shifter in the right position. But I would not drop the gearbox based on that one analysis. I suggest you do the self learning of the gearbox first and see if anything changes. Also on the next drive, see if 4th and 5th are different.

 

Original clutch? If so it’s probably toast. Depending on what version tcu you have a clutch will generally last from 25k-50k miles driving style dependent. It sounds like the clutch was able to put the car in gear, but not put power down. We’re the revs just building with no accel as you applied throttle?


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When I bought the car it had 44K on it. Just before the previous owner sold me the car he had a new clutch put in. My guess would be the clutch has about 6K on it. The last time the car was connected to a computer it was reading about 70-75% left on the clutch.

 

If what you say about the actuator is correct for my car, happy about that.
You live across the bay from me, I live in Fremont. Where do you take your car for service?

Thanks
Chuck

 

If the car is showing the gear selection on the dash as being engaged, and the car is not moving then the system is working. As stated above you may have a mechanical issue. At this point further investigation is now needed which may require tear down.

Obviously a scan tool and a look through the parameters/faults before digging in is a must. Trying to fix these systems without a good reliable tool is not something you should attempt. If no faults found..

First thing I would do would be to remove the actuator from the side of the gearbox. With it secured safely away from any obstacles I would run a self learn and watch the movement of the actuator. If each gear selection movement coincides to what the gear indicator on the dash is showing..then the hydraulic system is more then likely OK.

Next would be to inspect the gearbox side to be sure you do not have a bent or broken fork..that can.be done through the side of the gear box to where the actuator mounts. Anything further would need gearbox removal to inspect the clutch. Or possible gearbox teardown. Let's hope it doesn't need to go that far.

 

I have a shop that is really close to me. It's right outside the kitchen door, it's my garage.