Sign in
Forgot your password?
or Sign up
News

F12 CCM disc brakes cooling system failure and car wouldn’t start

Discussion in 'FF/Lusso/F12/812S' started by GTEE3, May 25, 2020.

Tags:
  1. GTEE3

    GTEE3 Rookie
    Silver Subscribed

    Dec 1, 2019
    24
    Champaign, IL
    Full Name:
    Chia-Hao Lin
    #1 GTEE3, May 25, 2020
    Was gonna drive my 2014 F12 this morning but the car wouldn’t crank at all with a CCM brake cooling failure warning on the dash, the right flap is stuck in the open position.

    I know there’re a few people who have experienced this issue on the forum but mine seems to be the first that wouldn’t start at all.
    Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
     

    2. To remove this ad click here.

  2. Il Co-Pilota

    Il Co-Pilota F1 Rookie
    Rossa Subscribed

    May 29, 2019
    4,368
    Hopefully some place nice.
    Full Name:
    A.B
    #2 Il Co-Pilota, May 25, 2020
    Just a quick question. Is your battery okay? A guy up here had that issue and it was solved by changing the battery. You could also try a hard reset if your battery is okay. Leave the battery disconnected for +10 min and reconnect. Then follow the steps in the owners manual for when the battery has been disconnected.

    It may not be the fix, but it is worth a try before taking it to the doctor.

    Sent from my SM-G930F using FerrariChat.com mobile app
     
    ewright likes this.
  3. GTEE3

    GTEE3 Rookie
    Silver Subscribed

    Dec 1, 2019
    24
    Champaign, IL
    Full Name:
    Chia-Hao Lin
    #3 GTEE3, May 25, 2020
    I think the battery is fine, I’ve been leaving it on trickle charge mostly. The car has been able to start every time. I’ll give your method a try, thank!
     
  4. GTEE3

    GTEE3 Rookie
    Silver Subscribed

    Dec 1, 2019
    24
    Champaign, IL
    Full Name:
    Chia-Hao Lin
    #4 GTEE3, May 25, 2020
    Tried disconnecting and reconnecting the battery twice already, waited over an hour before reconnecting for the second attempt. Didn’t work, it shows 11-12 volts before starting, I don’t know if that’s too low.
     
  5. otakki

    otakki Formula 3

    Mar 24, 2016
    1,521
    #5 otakki, May 26, 2020
    Don't really understand the logic of not allowing the car to start with the flap stuck open. If it is stuck, it might make some sense...
     

    6. To remove this ad click here.

  6. Il Co-Pilota

    Il Co-Pilota F1 Rookie
    Rossa Subscribed

    May 29, 2019
    4,368
    Hopefully some place nice.
    Full Name:
    A.B
    #6 Il Co-Pilota, May 26, 2020
    Between 11 and 12 is way too low for a fully charged battery. It should read 12.6v minimum or above. Not sure how you get an "uneven" reading off of it? What does a multimeter show when you put that on?
     
    ewright and Makuono like this.
  7. GTEE3

    GTEE3 Rookie
    Silver Subscribed

    Dec 1, 2019
    24
    Champaign, IL
    Full Name:
    Chia-Hao Lin
    #7 GTEE3, Jul 21, 2020
    Forgot to update the situation. Continental Autosport found that the starter motor went bad (they told me it’s due to age), and the ground strap was corroded, replaced them and the car had no issue.


    Sent from my iPhone using FerrariChat
     
    Tegethoff, crinoid and of2worlds like this.
  8. Solid State

    Solid State F1 Veteran
    Rossa Subscribed Owner

    Feb 4, 2014
    5,987
    Full Name:
    Nosmo King
    #8 Solid State, Jul 21, 2020
    I don't believe the simultaneous failure of the starter and the cable going to it. Its one or the other and a 2014 model year is way too young for the starter to go bad. Not sure what that has to do with the failure of a cooling duct flap either. There was definitely a control issue of the cooling flap and the car would not start so I would have guessed a bad battery or ground. The 11 volts is a give away to electrical/battery issues. Either way glad that yours is back in shape.
     

Share This Page