F12 Operating Temperatures | FerrariChat

F12 Operating Temperatures

Discussion in 'F12/812' started by F12lover, May 25, 2022.

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  1. F12lover

    F12lover Karting

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    What are your normal operating temperatures in your F12 after warmed up? I think I am experiencing higher than normal temperatures after dealer did annual service and which included coolant change. In general light traffic conditions I am now seeing close to 210 Fahrenheit on coolant side and about 200 on oil. The ambient air temperature is only 60 Fahrenheit. I have driven my car flat out for hours in 100-110 Fahrenheit ambient and it didn’t get much hotter. The electric fan(s) is also coming on at these temps which it seldom did before. When I get speed up and find some open road the coolant temp quickly drops to about 180 and this is where I recall it typically sat, especially on a cool day. Dealer thought my temps were fine but seems awfully hot compared to what I recall for city driving. Any help on your experience would be much appreciated. Image Unavailable, Please Login


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  2. 3POINT8

    3POINT8 F1 Veteran Rossa Subscribed Silver Subscribed

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    Seems high for city driving. I am assuming you are keeping it around 4k rpm? I am usually at 180 driving regular but will see higher temps like you have here when getting on it. I find my temps only increase when I sustain higher than 4k rpms for longer periods of time.
     
  3. 4574

    4574 Karting

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    I see the same. 185 in FL during the summer.
     
  4. flash32

    flash32 F1 Veteran

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    What I say..unless you didn't notice before always go back to what changes were made .. in this case coolant change .. could it be air pockets .. was anything else changed.. different grade oil etc

    Sometimes i have seen the opposite..cooler running engines after a change ..most likely the amount was low before change

    Just throwing out some ideas ..


    Check oil.level as well

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  5. ChaosAD!

    ChaosAD! Karting

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    The only time my temps go up to 205 or thereabout is when I’m idling sitting at a light for a few minutes. Once I get going the temp drops to around 175 - 180 regardless of ambient temperature.

    I just had my annual service done and they changed the coolant on mine and the temps are the same as they were before the service. They did however find a small crack on the thermostat housing which caused a slight leak of coolant and they told me it would get worse if I didn’t change it and it could cause overheating so naturally I did. They said it’s not a common issue they see but I have a 2014 model so it wasn’t unheard of for it to need replacing. They didn’t have the part of course and they had to order it and it took 6 weeks to get.


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  6. blkfxstc

    blkfxstc Formula Junior Silver Subscribed

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    Your temps are high compared to my norms, and I’m in the Houston area with higher ambient temperatures.
     
  7. F12lover

    F12lover Karting

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    Thank you to everyone who responded. Consensus is consistent with my recollection of about 180 F on coolant under normal conditions and relatively cool weather.

    I also figured there could be an air pocket or bubble in system after coolant was replaced. Will definitely investigate further and update when I know more.


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  8. Blow N By

    Blow N By Rookie

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    185 to 190 water temp, 180-190 oil.
     
  9. Solid State

    Solid State F1 World Champ Owner Rossa Subscribed

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    You have to hand it to Ferrari to go out of their way to design digital versions of analog gauges and yet make it impossible to read them (8.75 degrees per mark water temp!!)

    My F12 water temp will always be the lowest value when speed is high. Never owned a car that was this tied to air flow. Almost like an air cooled engine. Oil temp is way more important though and that stays pretty constant.
     
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  10. F12lover

    F12lover Karting

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    So dealer had another look at every thing. Added a small amount more coolant (didn’t specify how much) and another 1.5 litres of oil! Remember this was immediately after an annual service. Said big range for oil level and that even adding 1.5 litres of oil it was not now over filled. In any event, dealer and techs felt my temps were within acceptable range and also theorized that computer controlled thermostat could be struggling to get correct temperatures given ambient so low at 60 to 60 Fahrenheit. I don’t buy that. I drove car again and temps were slightly lower especially on the oil (no kidding and glad I did not run the car hard at that previous oil level). I then took the car for a good long and hard drive on twisty roads at high speed and temps were essentially 180 coolant and 190 oil with 73 ambient. However, at low speeds I am still creeping towards 210 on the coolant. So long story short… who knows but it doesn’t feel right and not what it did before.


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  11. tstuli

    tstuli Formula Junior

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    Could also be coolant/water ratio. A 60/40 mix for example will do a worse job removing heat than a 50/50 Mix. Any idea what they put in?


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  12. Solid State

    Solid State F1 World Champ Owner Rossa Subscribed

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    I will point out again that its not clear to me how one can read those gauges accurately; however, what you are describing here is how I would describe mine at that ambient. Perfectly normal. If you want to try something then use Water-Wetter or equivalent. This is a coolant additive that breaks the surface tension of the metal-to-water contact areas allowing better contact and heat flow between coolant and metal.

    I use this in my race bikes and it noticeably reduces temps on hot days delaying or avoiding coolant spill-over. Its bright/florescent orange and you only add a little. Safe for most metals. Also, make sure you use distilled water and fresh antifreeze but I use less antifreeze than stated amounts and add some water pump conditioner that looks a little bit milky white.

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  13. camshaft

    camshaft Karting Silver Subscribed

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    A thermostat struggling to adjust to ambient temps shouldn't matter once the car reaches operating temp. At operating temperature the thermostat should be open-loop and essentially no longer part of the equation. A sticky or malfunctioning thermostat will also usually throw a code, at least a soft code. I'm a believer in the Water Wetter Solid State posted but I don't believe it'll be enough to correct an actual issue. There may be some air in the system, which should self bleed eventually. I don't know off the top of my head if F12's can be manually bled but can check the service manual this weekend.
     

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