I have read this entire thread and as like everyone else I am 'social distancing' and have a lot of time on my hands I would like to get at my rear vents and add a spacer between the mesh and the inner glued panel. I cant see that anyone answered the question as to how access is gained to the inside of the rear fenders. My TDF blue 2015 F12 (02051530) has no sign of corrosion so far and I want to keep it that way. How do I get access please?
it is a very involved process. right rear wheel and fender liner must be removed. interior cargo panels behind seats must be removed. fuel line and other parts must be removed. this was just off the top of the mechanics head. here is a pic of the internals parts 27 and 28 are the mesh vents. you can go to scuderiaparts and see all the cladding that needs to come off. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Hi there, I am looking at this thread from two different angles: first I am considering to buy an F12 at some point; second, my F430 Spider has a nut looking somehow similar under the rear hood (have to retake a picture, soon). This is pretty much the conclusion that I also ended up with a few thread pages ago. Definitely, letting it sit potentially connected ends up with quite an expensive paint job sooner or later. So, better have it done rather sooner than later. However, not sure if I missed on the previous pages, did anyone confirm which material the rotten nut and washer are made of (pics quoted above)? So far I have understood: body: aluminium (painted) stud: aluminium mesh: steel (painted) washer: ? (presumably steel?) nut: ? (presumably steel?) To summarize what has been said earlier in different places above, the most long-term solution should be: remove mesh cover body underside in contact area with plastic/rubber like paint/coating (~1mm thickness or so) add nylon washers throw away steel nuts and washers and put aluminium washers & nuts to the same place refit old mesh forget about this issue for all time Or am I missing sth? Cheers, TS
in the picture showing the mesh from the underside looking up it is clear that some corrosion has taken place on the screw/nut on the left side. however that is the subpanel which when removed you can see that it is already attached to the body panel via black goo. there are no metal attachments on the subpanel to the body panel just that black goo. therefore that screw/nut corrosion shouldn't be causing the paint bubbles on the body panel. on my car i'm fairly certain it is the black mesh which is angled upward and thus pokes up through the subpanel and body panel cutouts. vibration causes the 2 parts to rub and thus cause the electron transfer/galvanic corrosion. adding plastic spacers on the screw will lower the mesh panel so it doesn't protrude out of the panel cutouts thus preventing the rubbing on the edges.
What is funny is you what think ferrari what have thought about this when they were designing and figuring out the material schedule for all parts. But i guess it was not that important.
What I was actually trying to say is: even if the mesh would be made out of plastic entirely, wouldn't the nut and washer (presumably) from steel cause the same problem alone?
if the black mesh was a non galvanic material yes that solves the problem. they engineered that subpanel to adhere to the body panel with no screws so that shows forward thinking.
i don't think so because if you look at first image... yes obviously it is corroding but that corrosion is on the SUBPANEL that isn't the actual body panel the screw/nut is corroding on to. second image is that SUBPANEL removed from the body panel and cleaned up, black mesh removed. notice the same white sticker on the parts. third image is how this SUBPANEL (flipped over) is attached to the body panel and it is with this black goo adhesive, no screws, so no contact... presumably. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Good point, I'd say. But isn't the fact that the paint on the outside body part is bubbling and that the nut bolted to the inside subframe is corroding together evidence enough that there must be contact (at least in some cars)?
on my car the contact is the black steel mesh protruding upward through the boomerang shaped cut outs in the subpanel and bodypanel. the mesh rubs on the edge of the cutouts and the paint is cracking. this edge is also where the bubbling is mostly forming on all cars. it is possible that the subpanel edge and body panel edge touch at the boomerang shaped opening and so that corrosion seen on the screw/nut subpanel could cause it as well. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Couldn't you just attach an Ohm-Meter/Connectivity-Tester (Multimeter) to one of the nuts on the underside of the mesh/subframe as well as to the scratch in the metal from your picture (or any other unpainted portion on the underside of the main body panel) in order to see whether there is electrical conductivity?
i suppose that's possible but very hard to get to the underside. ultimately when they repair it they will take care of everything but they are not giving details out on what is being done i assume for liability reasons. if you want to do it yourself go ahead and change all the screws/nuts to non-galvanic materials with aluminum as well as adding plastic spacers to lower the mesh so it doesn't protrude up against the edge of the boomerang cutouts. that should cover everything. good luck!
colonels thanks for the images....i see the black epoxy glue. weird how they did that ..engineered those pieces like that.... but as we all see corrosion is at the screws because of different metals. you would think the engineers would think this out better ...and you would think ferrari would change over in materials like how general motors uses different metals plastic and different synthetic materials for example on a corvette. ferrari doesn’t want to go away of there cars in all aluminum body’s. But they should just like other manufactures use carbon ,aluminum, synthetic plastics.
My 2017 F12 delivered Sept 2016 is still free from vent area corrosion issues. It rarely gets wet there...maybe three times in its life.
Its curios that the aluminum front hood has a good sized steel grill on it with a completely different connection method and has no recorded corrosion issues. Yet the rear attaches in such a way that all of the proposed mitigation will likely not eliminate corrosion somewhere down the line. Any non de-ionized, RO, distilled water that breaches the gap created by spacing or insulating will start the ion flow across dissimilar metals. Either that or the painted metals touch enough over time and gets wet. At least one poster has had the factory redo this twice on the same car.
i did not test the black mesh on the hood but it appears to be similar in placement as the rear vents. the only thing i can think of is that hood vent gets very hot whereas the rear vents don't. so if water is the catalyst then the hood heat is preventing moisture from sticking there.
Ferrari just approved a full warranty repair of the corrosion. Must be repaired at an approved shop. Sent from my SM-G930V using FerrariChat.com mobile app
Didn't expect that! Just an observation to actually support you that it must be important to "share all the details and the source of the information" since its your 8th post in 5 years - hence the happy face. No harm intended. As far as my Cherrios you may want to go to Silver and look me up for a recent thread. But that has nothing to do with my post. Best.
