F355 Alternator Belt Tightening Pulley

Tom - what is wrong with yours? I believe there are two types: metal (early cars), plastic (later). If metal, just replace the bearing.


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And if it’s metal and you want to replace it along with a bearing Hill Engineering makes a cheaper alternative metal pulley.

 

I have the bearing p/n somewhere but not handy right now.

 

This should be the part you are looking for, if it is the metal pulley: Alternator Tensioner Pulley, Centre Bearing 123350

 

Hey Dave, I notice your studs to secure the tensioner were replaced with bolts, I suppose for ease of removal. Will you be reinstating the studs and lock nuts on rebuild?

 

why would you make it harder to remove in the future? For the sake of originality?

 

I found a few cases like this with my 95 project car. Yes, I will be using the proper (original) hardware when reassembling the motor.

 

To the original question - the bearing is not that expensive and is normally the part that needs replacing. Sometimes the bolt on the right (in Dave's picture) is broken, and that also is not too expensive. The bolt on the left (with the pass through hole) is pretty spendy though, (but also unlikely that it would be broken). If the aluminum housing is broken then, yes that part is specific and could be costly.

Regarding the difficulty getting the assembly off, I think what people are doing is trying to pull the assembly off as a unit (which is problematic). I just went through this ('95B), and had no trouble removing it, but you need to remove the bearing first (remove the nut, give the bolt a little tap to push back into the holder, pull the bearing off, and then there is enough room for the tensioner to slide off on the studs)