F355 alternator rebuild update, with part numbers.

Beats me?

 

The LRC (load response control) is the delay time that allows the alternator to come up to full capacity before it starts to charge the battery. This time is in milliseconds. The time is longer on the 4DG versus the 4A. According to Holcombe, both will work fine.

 

Did they say what the time difference was between the two?

 

His exact quote:

" LRC is the delay time that allows the alternator to get to full capacity before starting to charge the battery. This time is milly seconds. Both regulators will work fine in your application."

 

Well then I guess that's what we have to go with. I was just wondering because of the rpm's our cars get up to. But if he say's both will work then I'm not gonna loose any sleep over it.

 

So does the 11-RN-02 work with the 6mm or does the 11-RN-10 directly replace it with the 8mm? Any word on the how to page?

Thanks

Nick

 

Great thread!!

 

So I will use the 11-RN-02 and replace the stud.

Is it easy to replace in the car or should it be pulled?

 

I ended up buying both the RN02 and 10. They were identical except for the stud. I installed the 10 and it seems to be fine.

It was real easy and quick to do. I did not have a right angle philips so I took a philips head bit and used a boxed 1/4" wrench to make one and it worked great, I just used a little tape to hold the bit from falling out.

I did notice when I had it up on the lift that my rubber CV boots had come apart.

Fix one thing and start on another!

Nick

 

Nick,
Are you going to attempt the cv boots yourself? I just had mine done, while the car was having a clutch R & R at the dealer....the labor was pretty high...I think it was around $1100 total for the four boots installed. Parts are pretty cheap from Ricambi, but I got mine from the dealer out of respect for them. Don't forget after you clean up all that grease to repaint the two silver fiberglass heatshields.

 

I was thinking about doing it myself but the time is an issue. I am going to europe for a few weeks and then I want to take the car up to Monterey in August so I may have to take it in.

$1100 seems pretty steep if they are already doing the clutch service doesn't it?

Nick

 

I don't think there is much commonality of parts that come off between both jobs....they did discount about $100 off the labor because of the clutch being done at the same time, which is about 50 minutes.

 

I just received the parts for a "future" rebuild ! I now have almost 7k miles since the last time the alt was rebuilt...... It seems to be working great too! How many miles in between rebuilds???

BTW I think one of the reasons these alts get hot and fail is they don't have a cooling fan built in to the pulley like we have seen on alts on all other cars !!

 

I have almost 45k on the original alternator on my 355.

 

Wow!! That is great!!! You are the only 'other' 1997 F355 spider I know of that has more miles than mine ..... I just turned 37k tonight!! the more I drive it, the better it runs !!!

 

I know you already rebuilt yours, but for future reference here it is with pics. http://ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=142329

 

The quote I got today was similar. I am going to have them do it as time is too little these days.

 

The heat has to be an issue and add the NAPerformance headers without a heat shield and I amd sure that contributed to the failure immediatly after the header install.

 

Thanks and nice detail. One thing worth mentioning that has already been said on this thread is that I did mine very easily without having to remove the alternator from the car. If you can avoid it, it makes it much easier.

 

I wonder if one could fab a little air scoop under the car to force air into it ??

 

About you CV boots.

In my opinion they are over charging you big time. The job is NOT hard, it's just messy, VERY messy. The whole job can be done at home for $100. Here is the how too, with additional links to other threads on the topic. http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=80955

Do it yourself and save $1,000.

 

One would need a rear wheel alignment afterward right?

 

Interesting question. It would not seem as though it would be neccesary as you are not changing or removing any suspension parts. It you are pulling the axles out, marking them and putting them back in it should not affect any alignment in theory. Anyone else care to comment?