F355 Alternator Replacement

We decided to go with a custom build NASCAR spec alternator which is overkill because we also discovered that the harness was damaged at the bus terminals behind the front fuse box. This had also fried the fuse box which we did not show any symptoms because so few of the accessories are functional in a race car. So new fuse box will be added as well as new terminals and all new #1 gauge positive and negative wiring. This should work .....

 

Thanks for the update.

And how about some more info on the NASCAR spec alternator. Pics too.

 

This is what replaced my alternator in my CH car:

RaceProven.com: Alternators: Racing

A number of other issues surfaced:
Wiring Main +ve and -ve cables were replaced because (a) their routing is all over the place, much too long; (b) they are too small gage for the amperage over time and in high temps. IOW they work fine in normal, perfect temperate conditions. But in a race environment they are sub optimal especially with constant big changes in alternator output. So #1 cable all round.

Also had to replace the fuse panel because the main +ve terminal over time has started to move around and had worked loose. This was probably the main cause of my 6 alternator fails with some additional issues caused by the alternators themselves.

By an large all alternator rebuilds are just that: rebuilds of all the components as opposed to new components fitted to old casings. So even when the rotor says Made in China (which all re these days) that does not mean that the rotor fitted was wound in China by the OEM supplier. This contributed to the failure of the electronics irrespective of which supplier. Denso is generally accepted as the best as long as the part is sourced from Denso and not a reconditioned Denso part with its internal replaced. Hard to know. Anyway James and Chris at Norwoods were much impressed by the knowledge at Raceproven and their cooperation to facilitate this fit was great.

I have not raced the car yet bur starts are now at a noticeably higher RPM from the starter (unchanged battery); it starts with the first few cranks whereas in the past I had to always run a second start sequence to get it to fire; and in 35 deg temps the engine runs on all 8 immediately.

So far so good.

 

Be sure to add this info to the 355 parts interchange thread.

 

why would having a trickle charger on have any impact on the alternator..?
wherether its between drives 2-3 days or longer storage period..?

 

let's assume you let your battery go dead between drives, then every time you drive the alternator has to work much harder by putting out a larger current to try and bring the battery back to life. It will die much sooner.