F355 Berlinetta 1997 insane overheating

Mats,

Sorry to hear. Agree sounds like circulation if levels are ok. Sounds either pump fail or fail to operate from thermostat. No doubt experts along soon. How many miles since water pump replaced?


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Unrelated to overheating but as a result, your head gasket may be toast now.

 

And pump belts, bearings seem ok from exterior?


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If you are over heating that badly I presume coolant is being expelled out the over flow? What is the reading on the coolant temperature gage? Was it properly bled?

 

The first thing to look at is a bubble near the impeller--that is was the system properly bled?

 

Radiators could be cloged up.

 

A fchater about 2 months ago reported a new 355 wp where the impeller broke. A failure like that could cause the problem you report. If you have this problem it will be the 2nd time in 40 years of wrenching.

 

Hello, it is possible that the purge is not correct, is that there is still air in the system.

 

sounds like it could be:
- failed thermostat;
- failed impeller (although all of the system should get hot to some degree, there should be no cold bits.)
- air lock in pipe work.


- Open the expansion tank;
- bleed each radiator, is there water coming out and is the expansion tank draining at the same time?
- re bleed system.

Best of luck,

 

For got to ass, could also be one of the smaller pipes blocked causing an air lock. Recent thread on the 348s with pipes almost blocking so could happen, the two from the expansion tank in particular.

 

The (kind of) good news is that if you drain the coolant. So you know you are definitely empty, then you can refill and be sure how much has gone in.

Whilst empty, are the pump off and inspect. It’ll cost a new gasket, but might show straight away if there is an issue.

Then of course you get into taking off rads and flushing. Mindful that if you had the pump replaced, could there have been crud in the system that wasn’t emptied and that’s causing a block - or a new pump moved stuff and that got lodged. You really want to be happy that there is no more stuff lurking to block a thermostat etc.

If one pipe looks poor, probably worth inspecting all. That won’t have helped prevent air locks potentially collapsing tubes and stopping flow?

It sounds like it is holding coolant, so flow is more the issue. Obviously check fans any way, as a shame to miss something that’s also a (small) part of a wider problem.

How far away is your Shop? Wonder what role they might want to play in this in case it is related to the pump work.


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Just a thought, if you disconnect the aux heater water pump wires and run the engine with the heater on, if the vents blow cool air then its very likely the water pump has failed. Seems these pumps have a few failure modes. If the pump is required to be replaced it is quite a big job. Best of luck.

 

Chance of system being clogged is slim. I wouldnt waste time with flushes on a low mile car.
Always remember that major failures can occur right after parts have been replaced and someone has had the car apart.
A new part with defects will fail very soon after it was put in and mechanics make mistakes.
I would be looking at the pump impeller or drive slipping on the shaft under high load.

 

GT, I get the point, and I don’t think we’re talking years of sludge, but if the pumps off and some pipes are being replaced, I don’t think it’s too much extra effort to check the Rads and make sure everything is clear - which you’d probably have a good idea from draining. Again, I’d be looking at the state of the impeller - did it just bust from poor MFR or fitment - or did anything inside ‘help’. Again, the state of the pipes coming off might help. Conscious it’s not the oil system, but not sure the effort is that huge. Each to their own.




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