F355 CEL/SDL after storage for nine months

Progress. I got the old TPS out. Two observations. First, in 50 or 60 years of messing with screws/bolts etc. The two screws holding the TPS in place, they were seated, but they were not very tight-probably the easiest two screws have come out on an important piece of electronics. They came out without much of a struggle at all (once I disconnected a couple hoses that were in the way).
Someone had put something, probably dielectric grease in the connection. The connector side looked pretty good, but the actual TPS had gobs of grease, you can see in the photo.
The TPS I picked up at an auto parts store yesterday, that supposedly cross referenced to one on our list, it will not work. So I could not test a new part.* Just as well as I probably will go to a dealership tomorrow and try to get the part, and more importantly, I will have the old part in my hand to make sure it will work.
*Tempted to clean out the old part, or all the grease, and try it. But if I can find a new part, I will do that.
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Please do not delete. Your table was excellent. A great start. I think it was more my parts store telling me this was an = part to something on your list, while it was not. There were 2-3 problems. For instance the new part I got, the pins were recessed quite a bit, versus the Bosch. And even a couple plastic tabs to keep the new part in place, they would interfere with pressing the new part into place. For sure the new part would not work. Tomorrow I will call a Maserati place, Porsche and Kia, etc.
Yes, I will test the old part.

 

Update: I replaced the TPS and nothing changed, after warm up, the car would stall at 2000 or so revs, with SDL/CEL coming on. I could barely limp the car back around the block and to the garage. Almost feeling like things were getting worse. So, changing the TPS did not change my problem. One note, be careful when replacing the TPS, there is a rubber gasket that can be lost/doubled up (meaning you will leave the old one in place by accident) if you do not pay attention.

I decided to change out the crank sensor, as I had ordered it from Daniel/Ricambi, and had it on hand. Removing the crank sensor, as others have probably noted many times(?), can be done with the alternator belt in place etc. but you need small hands and small tools to get to the allen bolt that is on the top of the crank sensor. And it helped to remove one of the panels on the bottom of the car.

There was one shim in place. This shim was not in the greatest shape (a previous mechanic had twisted one part of the shim, but I decided to continue on. The existing crank sensor had a pretty serious crack in it (see image). I suspect such a crack would do it no good. I have replaced the crank sensor, with the one shim, and have put everything back together. But I have run out of time for today. I will see how it runs tomorrow with the new crank sensor.


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Hmmm. Now the car won’t start at all. It cranks like a champ. But no ignition. Alarm system seems to be working normally.
ODB shows no codes.

 

Fuel level is half full.
No I did not check the distance between the sensor and the teeth. The reading I had done last week, it said to be careful with the shims, use the same number of shims, etc. But I did not see anyone measuring the gap.
The one shim that was in place before, I did not take a photo, but someone in the past servicing of the car, had either mangled the shim, or doubled part of it over on itself to slightly increase its width? I have drawn what the shim should look like, somewhat like an upside down tear drop (left). And what mine looked like, with some of shim doubled over on itself.
When the car would not start, with the new crank sensor, as a final idea, I put the old TPS back. So currently, the original TPS is back in the car. But the car still will not start.
One final thing about the failure to start. In the past, when the car was up on a lift, which is not very common, I have had problems with it starting after lowering it. I attributed this to some strange thing about the Ferrari alarm system, or the rear trunk lid not being completely closed? Something like that. Usually the next day the car would start fine, and I would not have any problems for months after. I did get four beeps today, and then I re-closed trunks and doors, but still no start.
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No, I think the four beeps happened, and then I rechecked the various trunks and doors, and now is the usual one beep, two beep sequence. I will try the long key fob press.
Yeah, the shims were a drawing of what I remember from last night. They are incredibly thin, and a previous mechanic had messed with the shim. I’ll get a photo next time.
Thanks for the gap for the shim distance. I will check it.