F355 - Clicking noise from pumpkin

Jeff,

After some miles consider blackstone oil and coolant tests as indictors of head gasket leaks. Oil testing is a good thing to do early and a good thing to do to find out when is the best time to change your oil for how you use your car.

There is much controversy on head gaskets and Ferrari HG leaks. Many real pros say no copper spray or in a less friendly way copper is for those who don't know how to rebuild a head. I have always used copper and never had any leaks but my total number of engines done is low compared to real pros. Another Friend of mine has done at least 1/2 dozen head jobs on 348/55's within the last 1/2 dozen years, also with stock HG's and copper with no leaks. One was a race motor. It would be great to hear how yours does for additional datapoints. There are all kinds of great sounding reasons for not using copper and only one reason for using copper...you have no leaks. I'm sure you will be joining our database of no leak stock HG's. Tim...you are sharp guy with lots of experience in this area. What do you think about copper on fiber gaskets?

 

Yep, I did not say you said it. It's been said all over this site that the new guides are sintered steel. See attached letter from FNA.
Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

More likely manganese-bronze.

 

Thanks Jeff got the installed height, I went right past that in adobe reader. I will need to look at the head to figure that one out.

I have no issue with the composite gaskets at all, they are whats to be
Only consideration is, has that gasket been optimized for that engine meaning is it a second or third generation release of that gasket.

Sealing is all about machining, I'm sure Dave can chime in here.
Proper torque plates in place before machining, controlled part temperature, tool offset control. correct mounting of part.
The gasket today controls expansion more then sealing in the old days

So deck that block cut those heads LOL I got a new Christmas song in the making.

 

Looks like they are using the bottom of the cam shaft bores as a reference to the valve height. One could make up a half round tool and use a depth mic to measure.

 

Perfect, that will work

Dave how would you cut the valve to fit? Grinder, diamond, stone or machine it?

 

When you say cut, do you mean length? If so, depending on how much needs to come off, I would either surface grind the top or use a cut off wheel in a surface grinder then grind the top flat.

My guess is the OP only needed to trim a small amount, say .005"-.010" (to compensate for the lapping of the seat) and that would be best done via a surface grinder. Any more and I suspect one would have a problem with the location of the key (keeper) grooves.

 

OK great, yes I think the vendor stated up they have a puck on top that is made for cut to fit I just wanted to be sure on the correct method.

Much appreciated

 

I would swop you by pass valve for the capristo one which if it fails will fail to the open position and not to the closed as the factory one does

 

Subscribed for archive

 

Just put my 348ts pumpkin back together with a rebuilt pressure plate & T/O bearing + NEW SEALS ETC. ( failed T/O resulted in broken Pressure plate fingers )
same deal --- rattling noise like an exhaust system rattle. It goes away when clutch depressed and can make less by playing with clutch release.
did not re-grease fly wheel because minimal grease in pumpkin.
Convinced noise is coming from fly wheel as all the other parts are solid pieces where as the fly wheel has a lot of stuff in it and when you depress clutch fly wheel stops turning = no rattle

BIG QUESTION HERE IS - WHAT WILL HAPPEN IF THE FLY WHEEL INNARDS FAIL??
VIBRATION? MORE NOISE? LOCKUP ?

No problems shifting etc. --- just this scary noise when I sit out of gear & clutch out.
like when you get out to open the gate or garage door.

ps: you guys are great - love you almost as much as I love My 1990 JET BLACK 348 ts
Texas Bob

 

Hello All
After sending my last post I realized I made a mistake. Depressed clutch only stops the dual clutch assembly from turning. the fly wheel is direct connection to engine and keeps turning.

Considering fly wheel is turning at over 1000 rpm & higher centrifugal force should prevent any thing from rattling. Same logic eliminates the dual clutch assembly from rattling with
clutch out.

I have no noticeable vibration --- COMPLETELY LOST AS TO WHAT IS GOING ON


ANY IDEAS


TEXAS BOB