Hello, You guys have been very helpful in the past, so I figured I would try you again with my question. I have owned a 1998 F355 GTS for about 5 years now and it has been a great car. About a year ago the car intermittantly started having a problem starting when cold. When I turn the key, the starter sound is normal, but the car doesnt engage. After several times of turning the car "on and off" all of a sudden the car will start. When the car is hot, starting is never a problem. A while back I told the dealer about this and they told me it could be the relay, so I replaced that and it did not really make much of a difference. What makes it difficult is that is does NOT always have this problem when starting cold, but is becoming more frequent. What we know is that it is not the assocaited relay or the battery. And the starter sounds normal; once the car is running, there are no other signs that anything is broken or suboptimal. Any ideas what could be causing this problem? Im always worried I may turn the car off somewhere and might become stranded. Thanks Steve
Need a better description of the problem. Are you saying the engine turns over normally (cranks) but does not actually start? If so, they do you have fuel and spark?
My 1995 always has difficulty starting only when cold. I believe the fuel is draining back into fuel tank. I was told there is a check valve in the fuel pump. For now my solution is to turn ignition on and wait approx. 30 sec. for fuel to be pumped and then crank. It'll miss the first but usually will start on the second crank. After my service, I'll have a better idea as my mechanic will do some test. Will report back in few weeks. Also check in 348/355 "F355 Cold Starting Difficulties"
The fuel pressure regulators hold fuel pressure in the fuel rail to make for easy starting everytime. The fuel drains back to the tank, from the fuel rain which makes it hard to start when the car sits for a few hours/overnight-i.e when the car is cold. One way to check to see if they are leaking is to remove the vaccum hose that goes to them. If it is wet with fuel in the end of the hose, the pressure regulators are leaking. Ex Fchatter Chaz had a nice thread here once showing how to replace the fuel pressure regulators using aftermarket Bosch regulators IIRC.
Pap 348, Thx for the tip. Will check it out on next oil change service next week - at least when I can find a dry day to drive it out. Vancouver has been mostly wet. This is certainly not convertible country!!
On any F355, I would certainly check the fuel line connections at the front of the motor. Fuel pressure could be slowly leaking backward out the connection. This is so commonplace that there was a recall in the US, so you can check with the dealer if your car has had the update, but I would triple check anyway. Jay
Heya Jay, hope all is well my friend!! I would be more inclined to check the fuel leak to avoid an engine bay fire!!
my understanding on your description is that you have sticking starter solenoid. Take the starter motor off and give the pinion and plunger a good clean-up. If it still plays-up then consider a rebuild at a reputable local auto electrical refurb outfit. More info on solenoids: http://www.carcare.org/Electrical/solenoid.shtml Apologies if I didn't get the right end of your description, English isn't the strongest of my languages. Anyway, if you get to the bottom of it please come back and update the board. Good luck, Bob.
I had similar cold start problem. Finally took my 1995 F355 in for oil change and found the problem. Mechanic did a pressure test on both fuel pumps by turning igintion on without cranking. . Left was 50 psi and right was 20 psi. Therefore, replaced the right fuel pump. Appeared to be a two part problem. Initially lack of pressure to start but once running, no hesitation problems. So we assume that the check valve was also the problem as it won't start easily after sitting overnight. Now problem solved. Pump cost C$488 from Bosch for my Motronic 2.7. Hope this helps you to diagnose the problem.
More on the subject. After a week of installing a new RH fuel pump, same problem. Takes me 4-5 cranks to start even after sitting for 24 hours. No problems running-no miss, no hesitation, etc. No problems when warmed up even after 2-3 hours. Can only conclude no ignition problems. Pressure regulator was checked for leaks. Fuel pressure was checked after installing new pump. Both 50-53 psi. Mass Airflow Sensors were checked inside for deposits - very clean. Checked relays and swapped them around as all 4 are the same. No change. Even opened one up to check contacts- clean. My next step is to check flow rate of fuel from the pumps besides the pressure and also spark just to be sure. any one have any ideas?
Gary, please keep us posted on your progress, it is all helpful for the knowledge base of us all. Hope to see you at the Italian Car Show June 15th in North Van. Oh, and the dinner the night before in Kitsilano!
Here's another diagnostic thought which I've shared with my mechanic. My problem appears to certainly be a fuel starvation problem. So I've asked my mechanic to test the check valve in my old fuel pump (which I suspect is still OK). If still good, then to install it in the LH fuel pump. Will keep you all posted on my progress.
No Doubt gave me a suggestion which I tried today after car sat for 2 days. I sprayed starter fluid into intakes. Then r=turned ignition on for about one minute. Started on first crank! Certainly it's fuel starvation but where? Will try to check the FPR's tomorrow. If they are not the problem, then it has to be the check valve in the Left fuel pump.
I re-confirmed with my mechanic that when he replaced the RH fuel pump, he did check both FPR (pulled the hoses off to check for presence of fuel - none). Today, I sprayed starter fluid in both intakes and immediately cranked - started without hesitation immediately. I was expecting some difficulty assuming that fuel may have drained back through the left pump. Now what?
The definitive way to know for sure whether the fpr & check valves are working is to simply connect a fuel pressure guage to each fuel rail. There's no point in guessing when simple and cheap diagnostic tool will tell you the full story. Connect the guages when the car's been standing a while. You can then take readings with ignition at pos II, then during crank, then during warm-up, at temp and then during shut-off. If you watch the pressure guage once the engine's shut-off you'll be able to see immediately if the check-valves are leaking. If you get hold of a hand vacuum pump with guage you'll also be able to test the FPR's properly. The 355 WSM has a table of correct fuel rail pressures for a given applied mm hg at the FPR. The symptoms you describe could be anything from bad compression to a blocked fuel filter to a bad ECT sensor and lots in between. If I were to hazard an 'internet guess' (worthless) I'd say you might have an air leak up-stream of the MAF somewhere, but internet diagnosis is impossible. Start with fuel rail pressure readings and take it from there...
