F355 Gear box fluid change

Someone else will chime in, I'm sure but mostly you just need a big wrench, and someone to catch you and the wrench when it lets loose. When it does let go, it's loud.

 

Just changed mine on the weekend. I used three extensions on a 1/2 " drive connected to a bar type driver. I sleeved the bar with a 2' pipe for leverage. Came loose with little effort.

BTW, used 5 quarts of Redline 75/90 NS to fill it. works like a charm.

 

Mine was also very tight I am wondering if most shops don't Impact it because I do not think it should be that tight. I will see if I can find the proper torque in WSM for others.

 

To find the proper torque, just look up the torque for the thread size.

 

+1 on using a 1/2" drive hex head socket, long extensions, and a long breaker bar. Don't put a flex drive on the extension to try and drop down at an angle. Instead, take out the pieces of the air intake that are in the way (on my 1997 it was the square plastic resonator box near the MAF) so that you can get a straight shot at it.

To fill, attach a 2-1/2 foot long section of plastic or rubber tubing to the bottom of a funnel so that you can reach the fill hole from above the engine.

 

OR hit the area around the fill or drain bolt with a little heat from a propane torch. Then you need almost no force to remove the bolt.

 

Are you referring to the fill plug up top, underneath the air box, or the one down below right next to the gearbox itself? (the one down below is actually the dipstick but can be used to fill with oil)

 

Using multiple extensions allows for some flex because it's not a straight shot to the plug. It has an allen head on that plug. Forget what size. Mine was tourqued on pretty tight. Way more than needs to be. Good luck. Tourque

 

That should take a 19mm hex tool. Mine wasn't on gorilla tight and I was able to loosen it with ease, but I have seen others have a challenge getting it loose. Try using a breaker bar, and add a piple (aka cheater bar).

 

19mm

 

Drain plung underneath the vehicle should be a 10mm, same tool type (hex or allen key)

 

Just Drained/Filled mine last month

easiest way to fill the Trans-Axle go and buy the $10 drill pump at Ace Hardware

Hook up a 3 foot hose to the OUT end, the other to the new Trans fluid and fire up your Cordless Drill

Will pump about 1 quart in about 30 seconds

 

The dipstick one is 12 mm Allen/hex key and mine won't budge. It's also at a weird angle, sloping down and towards the right rear. I got a custom made Allen/hex key on there with a 1/2" wrench and did not get it to move. There's no room for an extension bar -- any ideas?

Thanks.

 

Sounds messy.

 

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It makes a loud "crack" sound when it finally breaks loose. I don't think that these get over-torqued, but that some chemistry happens over the years that bonds it in place.

 

+1. When I would change on my 328GTS (on the 355 I usually let the dealer do it) I would put a dab of anti-seize on the threads, and using a new copper crush washer, would only tighten until the washer barely started to yield and stopped. That way, it was never a struggle to get it loose again...it was tight, but no heroics required to loosen like the first time, where I though for sure I was going to break something!

 

I think you're right cause I am the one who installed mine last and I know it wasn't torqued overly tight. However when I went to remove it a few weeks ago just to check the level it wouldn't budge.

 

The heat cycles are pretty extreme and I suspect over time it tightens the lug bolt.

I believe FatBillyBob mentioned much earlier in this thread to heat one side of the thread area with a propane torch. This relieves the tension and frees the lug. Good advice.