I see the existing switches have 12 detents (holes) shown on the body of the switch, but the direction and missing fan control switches only have six positions. Image Unavailable, Please Login What determines the angular limit between min and max? Or Auto and Demist.
Here's a pdf version of the switch types: https://www.dropbox.com/t/Mxmz74erDs7gF068 Link expires in 6 days
Alex @Shurik355 said he replaced his control panel board https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/posts/147418942/ Perhaps you can convince him to part with one of this switches (if he still has his old board)?
I found one with the correct shaft length but with 12 positions in China, it seems the product is end of production everywhere. It should work but more steps only.
According to that pdf file, there are other variations (single pole (SP), dual pole (DP), etc). Since we don’t have an original, it will be hard to make a comparison. Does the “VICKO” advertisement give the part number?
No partnumber but i guess it's originally single pole switches as they only do one function. They advertise it as 12 position single pole, the end stop pin is still available for ordering so i can put that pin in the 6th hole, the shaft length needs to be 14mm as i ordered but they don't make them in that length anymore
Did you notice that the switch in your VICKO picture has 11 "holes" (plus a blank)? The fan and air direction switches have 9 holes (plus a blank). Only the temperature control has 11 holes (plus a blank) Image Unavailable, Please Login
Yes the pin you see in hole 6 is the stop pin which is optional according the document. Yes there are different angles between the holes, 30º and 36º
So, presumably, if you bought the 12 hole type, the fan speed decal on the panel wouldn't match the switch positions.
I am trying to analyze the HVAC panel as i applied 12v to pin2 and ground to pin1 but i only get one of the backlight bulbs to lit, the other two are not lit. The bulbs are fine as i tried them separately, the bulbs behind the switches are working fine on pin3 when applying power to.
It seems yours is a newer revision of the PCB, mine is white both sides. Yes i have power but ground is not working for two of the three bulbs, connected pin1 and 2
You have the board, I only have someone else's photos. Are the white circuit boards harder to trace? If the lamps are 12 volts, it's likely there are no components, such as resistors, between the lamp holder and earth. Having said that, it looks like the common earth for lamps L1 and L3 is attached to resistor R1??? Is the "10" terminal on the lampholders power or earth?
I have a photo of the board and also marked the traces for 12V in red and GND in black, this all i know, the 12V is the easy part, GND however is more difficult as i don't know where it goes after the first resistor in the picture? Also you can see the quality is a disaster, seems like it's home made as the traces have corroded from under neath, that's why I said the above PCB seems to be a new revision and they had quality issues with the first batch, this is from a -95 car, the board is so diffcult to solder as well as the traces are so fragile as you can see from one of the bulbs for the switches, the other one went well to solder. View attachment 3238525
Looking at the green board, there is a trace from the Recirc light (L2) to earth (line added to your white board image). Image Unavailable, Please Login Here's the green board... Image Unavailable, Please Login (image flipped) That would give an earth to the "no go" lamps. Does your white board have this trace (on the reverse side)?
So it looks like that purple PTC (current limiting thermistor) is in the earth circuit. It may present a small resistance at low currents, but not enough to affect the brightness of the lamps.
Yes i have that trace, i tried to bridge the no-go lamps locations to PIN 1 directly and it worked so there is something strange going on here, very hard to trace with the white board.
Ok it works now, thanks, the black bridge you draw made it work, it seems it didn't get any contact, had to solder on the other side as well. Don't change the switch lamps on these, the board is so old the traces and covering will get damaged easily, crazy fragile....
I am so happy today! The climate control in my 355 finally works. Everything. It all works properly. It has never worked properly since I bought the car in 2012 (the previous owner had hardwired the recirc valve closed). I know broken gears and things is a common problem, but for me the problem was the ECU. I followed the advice in this thread and sent my climate control ECO, along with some new TCA2465G chips that I bought on eBay, to ProAudio Electronics (http://www.proaudioe.com). The guys there were really professional and returned the repaired ECU with detailed images of which chips they tested as broken and replaced (which is valuable documentation for OCD owners like me). I can't recommend ProAudio enough. And thanks to all who contributed to this thread!
Hi everyone, I need to replace some TCA2465G on my ECU board. Is it possible to send me the ECU diagram? the link is now dead and I would like to change only problematics TCA2465G... My problems : - no flap movement (i already test the motor using power source and it's ok) - the airflow is only on windshied. Thanks a lot Cedrik
There are no internal diagrams for the ECU. The external diagram is here: https://www.dropbox.com/t/6AYSGJUPAHofQ0uC See component "01262" Chip #6 controls the air direction: Image Unavailable, Please Login
